Made some major progress on my current '58 Hawk>'53 coupe project.
Removed the rear bumper and the two valance panels. Had to use the acetylene torch to
persuade the bumper bolts to undo, but had to cut none.
I then proceeded to remove the rear quarter panels. I figured "might as well" have them
off and rust-proof the inner quarters, etc. Those "might-as-wells" will getcha every time.
Before I removed the quarters, I took a 1/8" drill and drilled dowel holes, or witness
marks, if you will, through the quarter panel mounting flanges at few different points, so
the quarters can be re-installed in exactly the same position as they were originally,
seeing as they appeared to fit well. None of these holes are in places that will be
visible when the car is assembled. I'll probably use 1/8" pop rivets in them when I
reattach the quarters.
Woo-hoo, ZERO rust-through revealed when the quarters came off. Just a little powdery
surface rust. There was a small dent in the back of the RH quarter, I worked out most of
it, and the body guy can finish it off.
Yesterday was a snow day here, so I went to Calgary, and did some shopping for tools etc.
One item brought back was one of those folding work stands for doing body work on loose
panels. It came in handy. I scraped all the remaining hardened undercoating off the inner
side of the quarters, and out of the wheel wells. Some I scraped off dry, some I used a
heat gun or torch to soften and then scrape. Depends on how thick the stuff is, and where
it is as to which works best. Once all the crap was off, I used rags soaked in the
"forbidden solvent" to remove the residue.
Then I got out the sandblaster, and did the underside of the roof in part, the trunk
interior in part, and all of the RH inner quarter / wheelwell. The sun was low in the sky
by this time, and you need a good light for sandblasting, so I quit that, and got out the
POR 15, and painted the entire RH inner quarter area, and as much of the frame rail as I
could reach from there. Looking good!
I did find a little rust-through in the trunk gasket channels, but it's very minor; I
think a narrow strip of fiberglass mat glommed in with POR-15 will take care of it.
So nice to work on a car, that aside from the floor, is basically rust-free.
I took a bunch of digital pics, but have yet to download them.
Gord Richmond
Grumpy AuContraire - 26 May 2007 05:48 GMT
> Made some major progress on my current '58 Hawk>'53 coupe project.
>
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> visible when the car is assembled. I'll probably use 1/8" pop rivets in them when I
> reattach the quarters.
You might want to consider temporary fasteners such as:
http://www.skinpins.com/fastclecotemp.html
I use the things all the time if I'm looking for an accurate fit.
> Woo-hoo, ZERO rust-through revealed when the quarters came off. Just a little powdery
> surface rust. There was a small dent in the back of the RH quarter, I worked out most of
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> Gord Richmond
Gordon Richmond - 26 May 2007 06:03 GMT
>You might want to consider temporary fasteners such as:
>
>http://www.skinpins.com/fastclecotemp.html
>
>I use the things all the time if I'm looking for an accurate fit.
I've got Clecos, JT. The purpose of these alignment holes is simply so I can reinstall the
quarter panel in the exact same location as it lived for last 49 years. It was right when
I got it, so I figured that would be a simple way of ensuring that it doesn't shift on the
bolt holes when I reassemble the car.
Gord Richmond
Gordon Richmond - 28 May 2007 03:44 GMT
>>You might want to consider temporary fasteners such as:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Gord Richmond
Update:
Got more work done today. Sandblasted the inner side of the roof, and most of the inner
parts of the window frames. Also sandblasted the inner side of the firewall, and some
exterior areas, and some of the floor, too. The inner roof and firewall I consider to be
done. Got both doors off, not without busting 6 of the 7 screws in the lower hinges, and
that despite heating the screws red hot with the acetylene torch. No biggie, as I'm going
to use coupe doors anyhow, but I have that problem to look forward to when i get them off
the coupe. <G>
The old seam sealer was dried up and curled, so I've chipped and torched off any of it
that seals joints leading to the exterior, and will renew it after shooting DP40 on the
sandblasted metal.
The wind came up something fierce, so I had to quit sandblasting. I did get a couple yards
of gravel moved into the floor of my new shop with the tractor and loader before calling
it a day.
I'll have to go buy a few more sacks of sand. Looks like another day of sandblasting will
get me where I want to be. I tried sweeping up used sand from the floor of the car and
recycling it, screening it through fly screen, but it was so darn slow as to be scarcely
worth the trouble, and I got a clog in the nozzle despite the screening. Easier to "waste"
the sand, I guess.
Gord Richmond
The Other Dave - 28 May 2007 15:26 GMT
> I did find a little rust-through in the trunk gasket channels, but it's
> very minor; I
> think a narrow strip of fiberglass mat glommed in with POR-15 will take
> care of it.
Gord-
I also found some fairly minor rust through in this channel of my GT, and
used that method of repair. You might want to try the silver POR 15 for this
project, it has some fibers in it which thicken it and make it a good match
with fiberglass matt strips, as it does not run as readily as the black
product. I used it with fiberglass where the channel had rusted through, and
painted the entire channel with black POR 15 before the car was painted.
It seems like most of this rust problem could have been avoided if
Studebaker had installed the gasket in the trunk lid rather than the
channel, as they did in the Larks. Maybe they'll do it differently on the
next production run. :-)
Dave Mc