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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / February 2008Strange Clutch Problem
Hi Guys, Wondering of anyone can enlighten me on a clutch problem I'm encountering with my 59' Lark. It has the 6 cylinder engine with a 3 speed (no OD). I noticed that the point of engagement for the cluth was becoming lower and lower (to the floorboard), so I adjusted the released rod on the linkage as the shop manual instructs. That adjustment eld fine for a couple of weeks, during which the point of engagement once again, became lower and lower to the floorboard. I once again adjusted it, however this time, it sank back down to the previous low level with about 10 applications of the clutch! Rather than keep adjusting it further and further, I am wondering what could be causing the clutch to keep going lower and lower simply by applying the clutch pedal? I'm not 100% certain on the precise mechanics of how the clutch on my Lark operates, other than I know the pressure plate is pulled back away from the driven plate to make or break the engagement. Is it probable that the pedal linkage is worn down and requires attention, or is there something within the internal clutch itself that would cause this condition? Any thoughts or suggestions? Thanks, -George- -59 Lark Regal -63 GT Hawk -63 Champ Pickup 90% of the the time, it is a failure OUTSIDE the bell housing, usually the shaft lever outside of the coupler with clevis pins. Alson the coupler itself can crack and fail. I experienced both with my old Avanti. JT > Hi Guys, Wondering of anyone can enlighten me on a clutch problem I'm > encountering with my 59' Lark. It has the 6 cylinder engine with a 3 [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > -63 GT Hawk > -63 Champ Pickup Exactly what I was going to say... Check the pins on the cross shaft between the frame and bellhousing. I've fixed a few of those failures. >90% of the the time, it is a failure OUTSIDE the bell housing, usually >the shaft lever outside of the coupler with clevis pins. Alson the [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] >> -63 GT Hawk >> -63 Champ Pickup Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62 You may eventually need to remove the bell housing, to see if the spline has stripped where the two uprights (holding the throwout bearing) attach to the round shaft. This is a common failure, usually more so, with a pressure plate with heavy springs. Once repositioned, it can be welded. On Feb 25, 9:39 am, keith_kichef...@wed.dresser.com wrote: > You may eventually need to remove the bell housing, to see if the > spline has stripped where the two uprights (holding the throwout > bearing) attach to the round shaft. This is a common failure, usually > more so, with a pressure plate with heavy springs. Once repositioned, > it can be welded. Hi All, hanks for your input. I am going to be positive and go with checking the clevis pins First. It seems to me that if the splines were stripped or stripping, you would feel it suddenly giving as it jumped from one plie to the next, so to speak. But it gives me directions any way! -George- -59 Lark -63 GT Hawk -63 Champ They don't "jump" from spline to spline, the shaft/tab simply begins to slip. Internal bell housing failures are rare in my experience. JT > On Feb 25, 9:39 am, keith_kichef...@wed.dresser.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > -63 GT Hawk > -63 Champ Ahh, gottcha. Well, when I crawl under there and check it all out I'll let you guys know what I find. IT is good to know it probably isn't a super major project, anyway..... -George- -59 Lark Regal -63 GT Hawk -63 Champ Easiest way is to get it on a lift. JT > Ahh, gottcha. Well, when I crawl under there and check it all out > I'll let you guys know what I find. IT is good to know it probably [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > -63 GT Hawk > -63 Champ I've never had a clevis pin failure but several cracked couplers and tabs of the shaft(s) that began to rotate.. JT > Exactly what I was going to say... Check the pins on the cross shaft > between the frame and bellhousing. I've fixed a few of those [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Lee DeLaBarre > Daytona62 > I've never had a clevis pin failure but several cracked couplers and tabs > of the shaft(s) that began to rotate.. I have- on my '64 ('63 1/2) Avanti four-speed while driving in LA on my way to Frost and French. Not much fun killing it at each or the 100 or so (slight exaggeration) traffic lights then starting up in 1st gear. Paul Johnson Paul Johnson wrote: >>I've never had a clevis pin failure but several cracked couplers and tabs >>of the shaft(s) that began to rotate.. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > (slight exaggeration) traffic lights then starting up in 1st gear. > Paul Johnson Heh... I had the same problem, (second time), but had the car flat bedded to a shop. Once on the lift, I insisted that it was the fork in the bell housing that failed so out came the tranny. Then, the mechanic put a large vicegrip on the shaft outside and low 'n behold, fork was fine. a closer examination revealed where the tab on the outer shaft was rotating. repositioned the tab and had it heliarc welded, reinstalled the tranny and lived happily ever until I sold the car several years later. (First experience was a cracked shaft coupler). I no longer look for the complex solution but rather eliminate the simple under-your-nose things that can prove to be embarrasing. I had similar experience with my old T-Cab but the big problem there was the piss poor design of the clutch pedals with the shaft weld failing. Went through three of 'em and vowed never again to have a Stude truck with a manual tranny... JT |
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