 |
 | Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us |
 | Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network |
Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / April 200951 Commander Overheating Problem
Hey Studedudes, I recently acquired a 51 bulltinose Commander V8 which is having a rather vexing problem with highway overheating. Wondering if you guys have any ideas? You can drive the car at 30-50 MPH all day without any problem, but when you get it out on the highway, over 50, the heat will slowly rise until about 30 minutes into the drive it will begin to overheat. Yes, both upper and lower hoses are clear and they both have the springs in them. I have replaced the water pump, which made it run a tad cooler, but it still runs just above the high end of normal, and very near hot. I have removed the thermostat, without improvement. I've also flushed the system twice so far first time with Studebaker- Packard flush and neutralizer, and the second time with Prestone flush. No appreciable difference, although both times there seemed to be alot of rust or brownish crud that come out with the flush. There is no oil in the coolant, and no coolant in the oil, and no sign of leaking anywhere. This engine has the standard 4 blade fan. Do you have any ideas, or any suggestions? Do you think that by flushing and re-flushing a few times I: may get some crud outta there which may be still stuck? What do you think is better, Studebaker- Packard flush or newer Prestone? Thanks for your thoughts!!!! -George- -51 Commander -56J -63 GT Hawk -63 Champ 6 or V8? if the motor has never been rebuilt, pull the back freeze plugs and see if there is a LOT of sand/stuff in the block from when cast. also IIRR, on the 8 there is a tube that goes from front of block to back end, that takes the radiator water to the BACK of the block. yours may or may NOT be like this, but its just things I read here and there. --Shiva-- > Hey Studedudes, > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > -63 GT Hawk > -63 Champ Try removing the radiator and backflushing it (from the bottom neck with the radiator upside down) When you do the flush on the car, all the junk that gets loosened, ends up sitting on top of the tubes at the top of the core. If you don't get much out, it would probably be a good bet to get a radiator shop to pressure back flush it. The suggestion about cleaning the gunk and core sand out of the back of the block is also a very good one. If you have not removed the core plugs and flushed the block that would be the first thing to do. Just flushing won't do it. After removing the core plugs you will need to use a stiff peice of wire to scrape it loose and then flush some more.  SignatureJerry Kaiser (studeblu) 53 Coupe 37 President Sedan 38 Coupe Express 54 Conestoga > Hey Studedudes, > [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > -63 GT Hawk > -63 Champ Define OVERHEAT. I thought my cruiser was until I checked the actual radiator temp with two long cylindrical kitchen thermometers. On a 1962 Lark, 3/4 of the way to "H" is 185º Dave Miller P.S. the water tube idea sounds good. I hear they corrode and collapse > Define OVERHEAT. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > P.S. the water tube idea sounds good. I hear they corrode and collapse I have noticed this too I think that the gauges were factory calibrated so that the thermostat rated temp. was 1/2 scale. e.g on your '62 it would have been 170F. thus it can be at more than 1/2 scale and still not be considered "overheating." nate Signaturereplace "roosters" with "cox" to reply. http://members.cox.net/njnagel Dave not trying to be a smart a.s but a 51 Commander would be a V8 and they don't have a water tube. SignatureJerry Kaiser (studeblu) 53 Coupe 37 President Sedan 38 Coupe Express 54 Conestoga > Define OVERHEAT. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > P.S. the water tube idea sounds good. I hear they corrode and collapse Yeah, like it or not, the dreaded block clean out along with radiator rod out sounds like the cure... Don't be surprised if your radiator falls apart when they try to rod it... Hot weather is around the corner for some and already starting for others. As many as I have done, that job still sucks. After I finish doing one I always think about raising my price for the job... Is Matthew listening? <G> He needs to suck it up and do this on his new ride BEFORE the Cairo show....every time I mention it to him he ignores me.... Over the years I have noticed that each engine seems to be different as far as running temperature even when all is clean. Some run hotter than others even though they are the same engine in the same car with the same accessories, etc. I think this is due to differences in the block and/or head castings. Studebaker George PS here in the hot south larger fans, smaller diameter (the one for factory AC cars) water pump pulley, fan shrouds and bigger radiators are sometimes needed to keep things cool... I noticed that T Bow is selling V8 Lark fan shrouds that might also be a help for Lark owners. > Yeah, like it or not, the dreaded block clean out along with radiator > rod out sounds like the cure... [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > finish doing one I always think about raising my price for the > job... Yep, after fifty-one years, the core of the Power Hawk was extermely "shaky" according to my old time radiator guy. So, I had him do a three row recore of course when copper prices were through the roof! $425!! > Is Matthew listening? <G> He needs to suck it up and do this on his > new ride BEFORE the Cairo show....every time I mention it to him he [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > selling V8 Lark fan shrouds that might also be a help for Lark > owners. My old T-Cab had a three row radiator (NOS) and that vehicle never exhibited any tendency to overheat. Two row versions though are a real crap shoot in these heeyah pawts... JT (Oh, and five to seven bladed fans help a lot!) > Define OVERHEAT. OVERHEAT in my case is defined at temperature gauge pegged over at the "H" end of the gauge, and steam pouring out of the engine compartment like a locomotive. Removing the cap results in steam pouring up from the neck. Since posting the initial posting, I have tracked the problem down to the wrong type of radiator cap. Once I replaced it with a pressuized type the overheating ceased and there has been no coolant loss or other problems, both at local driving speed as well as Interstate speed. -George- -51 Commander Land Cruiser -56J -63 GT Hawk -63 Champ > Hey Studedudes, > [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > > Thanks for your thoughts!!!! Classic symptoms of a plugged radiator. Unless you have had it rodded lately, it may be time to visit your favorite radiator man... JT |
Reply to this Message |
 Sign In
 Join
 My Latest Posts My Monitored Threads My Blog My Photo Gallery My Profile My Homepage Start New Thread Enable EMail Alerts Rate this Thread
|
©2009 Advenet LLC Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.