On a side note- If you want a nice little body-rolling cart. You can build a simple one with 3
2"x4"x8' studs, a few scrap pieces of plywood (1/2"-3/4") 12"x12" or so..., and 4 casters (I prefer
~3" wheels).
Cut one stud in half- and nail the studs up in a rectangle shape. SCREW the plywood squares into the
corners. Mount the casters so that at least 2 of the mounting screws go through the plywood and into
the studs. Any C/K body will set right down on this rectangle- and the body mount pads line up
perfectly- with lots of leeway to move it around.
The entire body shell only wieghs about 400-500 pounds so this little cart will handle it easily. I
have lifted one off by myself before- using only a floor jack and engine hoist.

Ray

I just used 4X6's cut just short enough to fit inside the frame. Jack
the car up as high enough so the kick up in the axle area can slide
under the car body.  Remove the one or two removable cross members on
the frame. Place jack stands under the wood and place the wood across
the body right where the body tub is flat enough to be steady,  at the
firewall. Place another piece of wood on stands just in front of the
rear axle.
  Remove the front and rears suspension and anything else that unbolts
from the frame.  Place more jack stands  about an inch under the frame
in the rear and a floor jack under the front cross member, Squirt
penetrating oil up the holes in the frame to coat the bottom of the
bolts that stick down from the top. If you strip some of the nuts that
are inside the frame they are very difficult to replace. I repaired some
of mine with Helicoils. Unbolt the body  and  slowly lower it down in
the front. Take real good notes and pictures of how many  and how thick
the spacers are and their exact location. The spacers  are used at all
mounting places. Some will fall out as you work
Check that  rear of the frame is  not digging into the body in the back
as it tilts down.
Drag the frame out to the front or rear. When you come to a cross member
or other obstruction that is going to hit the stands  you will have to
place your floor jack inside the frame and jack up the 4x6 on top of
those stands. Place another 4X6 behind the cross member and place the
stands under it and lower the jack back  down. You will have to do this
several times front and rear. You can save one step going out and one
going back in if you remove the rearmost cross member either by drilling
out the rivets or hack sawing it on both sides. After you clean and
paint the frame you can weld  or bolt the rear crossmember back in after
you slide it in place. I didn't do that on my 54 but I did do it on my
sons 71 Riviera. All depends on what looks like the most work. Not
cutting it  would look best for a show car. When installing the freshly
painted frame you may want to put cardboard or something like that under
it as you slide it in.

Alex M