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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / January 2004

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Driveshaft angle?

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George Rohrbach - 26 Jan 2004 23:35 GMT
Anyone have a real handle on driveshaft angle? What did Stude use? What do
hot-rodder shoot for? Why?

Signature

George Rohrbach

John Poulos - 26 Jan 2004 23:40 GMT
Here's some good info

http://www.2quicknovas.com/happypinions.html

> Anyone have a real handle on driveshaft angle? What did Stude use? What do
> hot-rodder shoot for? Why?

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JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
63 R2 4 speed Daytona HT(Md.keeper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R3 clone(Md.keeper)

John Poulos - 26 Jan 2004 23:42 GMT
Hit enter too quick, here also

http://www.driveshaftshop.com/angle.ivnu

> Here's some good info
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>> What do
>> hot-rodder shoot for? Why?

Signature

JP/Maryland
Studebaker On the Net http://stude.com
My Ebay items:http://www.stude.com/EBAY/
63 R2 4 speed Daytona HT(Md.keeper)
63 R2 4 speed GT Hawk
63 GT Hawk
63 Avanti R3 clone(Md.keeper)

Grumpy au Contraire - 27 Jan 2004 01:09 GMT
> Anyone have a real handle on driveshaft angle? What did Stude use? What do
> hot-rodder shoot for? Why?
>
> --
> George Rohrbach

Essentially, the drive shaft must be at an angle to what it is attached
to.  If it is a straight line, the universals will suffer early failute
as the grease will not dispearse correctly.

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JT

Just tooling through cyberspace in my ancient G4

Jeff Rice - 27 Jan 2004 01:56 GMT
The relationship between the crank/trans centerline and the pinion
centerline should be parallel.
They should not be perfectly in a straight line.
Lets say the crank/trans is dead nuts level and parallel to the ground.
The pinion should be also, but not directly in line.
There should be some offset built in.
Say the driveshaft has a 2 degree down angle from the crank/trans
centerline.
Then the pinion should have a 2 degrees up angle to cancel out the down
angle.
The same thing can be from side to side also.
The reason is to get the rollers in the caps of the u-joint to roll on the
cross shafts.
If they don't, the rollers will 'brinnel' into the cross and cap and wear
out rather quickly.
Drag racers used to put the pinion down an additional degree or two to
counteract spring wrap during acceleration.
http://www.baselinesuspensions.com/info/pinionangle.htm (drag race only)
Ok for them, as long life vs. speed are not exactly cooperative.
If you set a street car up that way, then the pinion would go down too much
under deceleration/braking and a vibration may ensue.
If you are setting up your car, just measure the trans centerline angle,
then the driveshaft angle, then set the pinion angle to zero out the
trans/driveshaft angle.
Here are a couple of more detailed links:
http://www.carcraft.com/howto/91758/
http://www.drivetrain.com/driveline_angle_problem.html
http://www.iedls.com/ptsetup.html
Hope it helps.
Jeff

> > Anyone have a real handle on driveshaft angle? What did Stude use? What do
> > hot-rodder shoot for? Why?
> > George Rohrbach
My53Stude - 27 Jan 2004 03:21 GMT
In addition to what Jeff said you should also remember that your pinion angle
should be set up with you car at ride height so you will have to bolt the rear
end in loose and let the cars weight set on the wheels. The studebaker rear
springs are longer in the rear and this causes the pinion angle to roll down as
the car is lowered.
Mike
Oldcarfart - 27 Jan 2004 22:14 GMT
>Subject: Re: Driveshaft angle?
>From: my53stude@aol.com  (My53Stude)

>In addition to what Jeff said you should also remember that your pinion angle
>should be set up with you car at ride height so you will have to bolt the
>rear
>end in loose and let the cars weight set on the wheels.

do this with the car fully assembled or you can really cause some weird issues
to happen.  You need all the cars weight on the springs!
My53Stude - 28 Jan 2004 14:52 GMT
I have also acomplished this with a bare frame. ayou have to use a come along
to pull the frame down to the rearend. You have to use a piece of tubing across
the frame rails and you must know where the ride height is going to be. Then
when you release it, don't freak out when it points up in the air
Mike
Jamie McLeod - 31 Jan 2004 01:19 GMT
I recently bought an Anglemaster II. A really neat digital angle meter. Since I
just got finished with my driveline and rear axle certification, (brand x). I
can safely say that pinion angle should be between 1  and 3 degrees. Any more
and and a double cardin joint should be used. If you have a fixed rear end
(independant), you can have as little as .5 degrees of pinion angle.
As long as your ride height is where you want it, you can use the driveshaft as
your 0 reference with the anglemaster. Then you flip the adapter up and it sits
on the universal joint cap and measures the pinion angle and the engine trans
angle.
If anyone needs to borrow this thing to set one up, let me know and I'll get it
to you.
It's pretty cool and is a snap to use.


Starliner62@aol.com (Jamie McLeod)
POR-15 dealer  (soon) 1-910-425-8292
55 Speedster
70 AMC Javelin
61 Ford Starliner
59 Ranchero
Sonny - 31 Jan 2004 18:55 GMT
Where would a fella buy one and how much are they Jamie? Thanks in advance.
Signature

Sonny
http://RacingStudebakers.com

> I recently bought an Anglemaster II. A really neat digital angle meter. Since I
> just got finished with my driveline and rear axle certification, (brand x). I
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> 61 Ford Starliner
> 59 Ranchero
 
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