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Car Forum / Antique and Collectibles / Studebaker / October 2004Best way to remove drums on Avanti Dana 60 rear end
Getting things ready for the arrival of my new '54 Hardtop thanks to Bob Miles. I picked up an Avanti Dana 60 rear with the larger brake drums from Studebob earlier in the year and am now ready to remove the drums and install rear discs. I tried to remove the drums with a slide hammer puller and was unsucessful. The rear end was supposedly from a '63 Avanti that was totaled in '64 so I doubt these drums have ever been removed. Am I missing something? Any tricks or tips? Thanks-Will > Getting things ready for the arrival of my new '54 Hardtop thanks to > Bob Miles. I picked up an Avanti Dana 60 rear with the larger brake [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > '63 Avanti that was totaled in '64 so I doubt these drums have ever > been removed. Am I missing something? Any tricks or tips? Thanks-Will First of all it's probably a 44 rear not a 60, secondly a slide hammer puller isn't going to cut it, you need one of those deals where you have three legs bolted to the lug bolts and a big screw in the middle tightened by a slugger wrench. I know that Ted Harbit used to sell them. nate  Signaturereplace "fly" with "com" to reply. http://home.comcast.net/~njnagel oops! Sorry about the Dana 60 part I meant to say 44. Thanks for the help-Will > > Getting things ready for the arrival of my new '54 Hardtop thanks to > > Bob Miles. I picked up an Avanti Dana 60 rear with the larger brake [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > nate That's a relief! I just couldn't picture a 3/4 ton truck axle on an Avanti.. JT > oops! Sorry about the Dana 60 part I meant to say 44. Thanks for the help-Will > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > > > nate - If you have a Proto dealer handy, they make an excellent 3 arm puller - AFAIR it is their part #1006. One trick I use with the Proto puller is to gently heat the drum in the vicinity of axle with a torch, i.e. the hub portion of the drum. They sometimes really make a bang and go flying a couple feet when they let loose. Be aware you may bung the threads on the end of the axle with the puller screw. Snap-On makes a nice rethreading tool. In the worse case I ever had, I had to remove the axle and hub as an assembly and take them down to the local Cat shop where they used their 100+ ton press to separate the two. Took a bit of fussing to restore the threads on that axle shaft........... -- wf. > oops! Sorry about the Dana 60 part I meant to say 44. Thanks for the help-Will > [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > > > nate Isn't that why you leave the nut on a few threads... and use a smaller nut or something between the puller screw and the hub so nothing gets screwed up? I'd never consider leaving the nut off the hub and letting the hub fly off when it pops... good way to end up with a broken leg. With it on, the hub hits the nut and stays on the hub when it pops. Lee > If you have a Proto dealer handy, they make an excellent 3 arm puller - > AFAIR it is their part #1006. One trick I use with the Proto puller is [quoted text clipped - 32 lines] >> > >> > nate I usually reverse the nut and turn it to be flush with the axle tip. Doing so allows a small space for the hub to travel when it releases. A big bang maybe but it goes nowhere. JT > Isn't that why you leave the nut on a few threads... and use a smaller nut > or something between the puller screw and the hub so nothing gets screwed [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > >> > > >> > nate SignatureJT Just tooling through cyberspace in my ancient G4 >I usually reverse the nut and turn it to be flush with the axle tip. >Doing so allows a small space for the hub to travel when it releases. A >big bang maybe but it goes nowhere. > >JT Something else that we agree on <G>. That is the way that I have always done it. Besides keeping the drum from flying off, it helps to protect the axle threads (to prevent mushrooming). Gary L. Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. On the really stubborn cases the axle just splays anyway and now you have a thoroughly jammed nut/axle combo. BTDT. On the really stubborn cases, they never come apart with a puller......... -- wf. > >I usually reverse the nut and turn it to be flush with the axle tip. > >Doing so allows a small space for the hub to travel when it releases. A [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone > 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. Signaturewf. Wayne Flowers Randee Greenwald randee@zianet.com >On the really stubborn cases the axle just splays anyway and now you >have a thoroughly jammed nut/axle combo. BTDT. Then you turn the nut in and use a thread chaser on the exposed threads or if that doesn't get you far enough, cut the nut off and use a thread chaser. I have only seen one do this and the axle threads cleaned up with one of those large tools for the purpose (that I am calling a thread chaser - don't know if that is the correct name). Gary L. Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. Yes I've had to burn the axle nuts off a couple times when the nut jammed on a splayed shaft, decided it wasn't worth the extra effort and don't bother with the nut anymore. If the ends of the shaft is not splayed too badly you can sometimes use a standard hex rethreading die, in bad cases you have to use the Snap-On rethreading tool and go to one size larger with the tool set wide and work your way down to the correct diameter. Fortunately on the only case where the hub simply would not separate it was aa disc braked car and I could remove the rotor and get at the backing plate bolts and thus remove the shaft and hub as a unit. -- wf. > >On the really stubborn cases the axle just splays anyway and now you > >have a thoroughly jammed nut/axle combo. BTDT. [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone > 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. Of all the ones I have ever done, I have NEVER damaged an axle shaft with the puller. I pull the nut off, put it back on with the slots toward the hub and thread it on until it is ALMOST flush but the axle shaft is about 1 thread recessed into the nut. From there, I use the pulller for all that is necessary to get it to pop. Never a splayed axle shaft end, never had to chase threads and never damaged a nut. Trust me, up here in the rust belt and working on cars that have sat on dirt floor barns for 25+ years before I got to them, there have been plenyt of tough ones. >On the really stubborn cases the axle just splays anyway and now you >have a thoroughly jammed nut/axle combo. BTDT. On the really stubborn [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >> Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone >> 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. Lee DeLaBarre Daytona62 I've never run into that many super stubborn ones - maybe 4 or 5 that I have splayed the shaft in 40 years- at least two were with a nut on and I used the Harris wrench to remove the nut, another couple without a nut that cleaned up easy, and, as I say, one that I had to remove the hub and shaft as an assembly. For some reason the larger shafts used on the European version seemed more prone to hard removal. -- wf. - > Of all the ones I have ever done, I have NEVER damaged an axle shaft > with the puller. I pull the nut off, put it back on with the slots > toward the hub and thread it on until it is ALMOST flush but the axle > shaft is about 1 thread recessed into the nut. From there, I use the > pulller for all that is necessary to get it to pop. Never a splayed > axle shaft end, never had to chase threads and never damaged a nut. You could do that if the hub were not on that tight, but in the really stubborn cases you splay the end of the axle. If you have a nut on there you now have the annoyance of removing the jammed nut (Harris wrench) and you still have to chase the threads. I suppose you could just use a rethreading die as a nut. I'm not sure I understand the broken leg comment, the forces are such that the hub releases in the direction of the puller screw, not at 90 deg. You are standing to the side when swinging the sledge aren't you? -- wf. > Isn't that why you leave the nut on a few threads... and use a smaller nut > or something between the puller screw and the hub so nothing gets screwed [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > >> > > >> > nate Signaturewf. Wayne Flowers Randee Greenwald randee@zianet.com >a slide hammer >puller isn't going to cut it, you need one of those deals where you have >three legs bolted to the lug bolts and a big screw in the middle >tightened by a slugger wrench Either that or the type of tool that Studebaker used. It bolted on and had a wedge that you drove in at the axle end. Gary L. Studebaker Drivers Club Director - Northeast Zone 36 year member of Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc. |
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