Good info, but I have to pitch Ted Harbit for the kits, he stocks them
and the tiny profit makes the Chicken Hawk go fast <g> BTW, you can
convert the R1 pump to a R2 by drilling a hole for the blower fitting.
Ted is sending me a high output modified Mopar pump to try on my R2,
I'll report back.

 I'm using one of the Chrysler pumps on my R2, now.  It's an M6270 Carter,
made for high performance use on the small V8's.  The operating lever is
heated and bent, at the angle closest to the camshaft, so that end is about
1/2" lower; to adapt it to the Stude.  There's a boss in the right place,
that can be drilled and tapped for the boost reference line, on R2's.  I
have had no problems with it, in 4000 miles of normal use.  It is physically
smaller than the Stude pump; and you can see the difference on the car.
Although it's a three valve, the valves are smaller than the two in the
Stude pump.  I doubt it will pump as much as the Stude; but it's probably
more than adequate, for the street.
 I rebuilt an R1 pump with a kit from "Then And Now".  I'll probably
install it when I install Ted Harbit's front seal kit, in the timing cover.
"SI" and Dave "T-Bolt", sell the "Then and Now" kits.  That may be where Ted
gets his, too.  One I got from "SI" didn't come with the instructions.
Without those, the parts look like they were for a different car!  Make sure
you get a copy, where ever you get the kit.  Older kits used a flat washer
between the stem seal and the spring that controls pressure.  Newer versions
have a formed washer, that looks like an improvement.  The seals in the
repair kits are "AC" parts; and look better than the stock Carter seals.
 Jerry, I don't know what would make the stem seal fail, prematurely.
However, if you have an oil filter on top, without the restricted fitting,
you could get an overwhelming amount of oil to the timing cover, and the
pump.  You don't have the pump on top, do you?
                                                                           
        Mike