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Car Forum / Subaru Cars / July 2006

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DIY Timing Belt Replacement

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phatirejunky - 04 Jul 2006 13:50 GMT
Hi,
I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
had was removing crank pulley.  I tried  conventional methods (strap
wrench/breaker bar), but could not budge bolt. I searched NG and
learned about the bumping starter method. I was very leary of this
method to say the least.  I decided to consult my local imports
mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
methods fail.  He loaned me a breaker bar, mine was not long enough to
reach frame.  I carefully positioned breaker bar, one end resting on
drivers side frame, making sure to keep bar parallel to crank pulley. I
removed plug wires from plugs, bumped starter once and bolt was loose.
Rest of job was fairly easy. I used  OEM belt and water pump, as many
in this NG suggest. The belt has three marks that are aligned to crank
and cam sprocket marks.  I used a T handle breaker bar in conjunction
with a hammer to tighten crank bolt during assembly.  Got every thing
assembled, hit starter, and was a happy camper, car started and no leak
at new water pump gasket. Very productive day, I had to take out a
front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
job.  Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!
Michael Pardee - 04 Jul 2006 15:19 GMT
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> mechanic, he said he used the starter method whenever conventional
> methods fail.

I only did it once, on my daughter's first car, an old Toyota. It worked
fine but was scary - the front of the car rose several inches.

It's worth mentioning even here in a Subie forum that the starter method
can't be used on Honda products - those engines turn counterclockwise.

Mike
Carl 1 Lucky Texan - 04 Jul 2006 19:07 GMT
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
> job.  Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
Some say some of the books have a torque too low and it should be higher
(120f/lbs IIRC - anyone?)

Regardless, sounds like a very satisfying experience.

Carl

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Edward Hayes - 04 Jul 2006 20:30 GMT
Crank pulley torque values I've seen in writing 120 & 130 foot/pounds
so I picked 125. If you set the torque too low the pulley will slowly
loosen and probably wreck the key, keyway and crankshaft nose. Use a
torque wrench to be sure.  Ed
>> Hi,
>> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem
[quoted text clipped - 37 lines]
>
> Carl
phatirejunky - 04 Jul 2006 20:57 GMT
> You, Sir, are to be congratulated.
> One point - what torque value did you use to replace the crank pulley?
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
>
> Carl

The service manual spec. is 130.2(within 3.6 either way).  I had to
SWAG, no torque wrench. I followed my mechanics advice of using breaker
bar as a slugging wrench. After about 20 miles, still tight.
Remco - 05 Jul 2006 04:03 GMT
> Hi,
> I replaced timing belt on my 2002 Forester yesterday. Only problem I
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> front axle and replace both CV boots before I started on timimg belt
> job.  Thanks to folks in this NG, both jobs went better than expected!

On an automatic, you can lock the drive plate by jamming a breaker bar
through the inspection holes into the plate. It is still a bear to get
off, though.

Remco
 
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