Legacy 1996 2.2 L questions

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dave.mcc@telus.net - 23 Mar 2007 03:08 GMT

Hi:

I have a few questions about a "new" 1996 Legacy wagon 2.2L 5 speed
AWD I acquired recently.

First, I don't need the AC where we live so has anyone tried removing
the drive belt to the compressor - I'm thinking it would give
slightly better gas mileage - one less thing to turn... Any comments
about this?

Second, I've read several posts about the importance of keeping all
tires at even wear, change all tires at the same time, etc, because of
that viscous thing that adjusts power to the wheels. I've read the
owners' manual carefully, I think, and I can't see any reference to
this at all, in fact the car has one of those little spares and only
recommends not driving faster than 80 km/hr. Does anyone know what
you CAN get away with? Not that I want to push the envelope or
anything, but I might want to just put new tires on the front rather
than replace all four....

Third, I've also heard that on this engine if the cam drive belt
breaks, there is not likely to be any damage - the thing will just
stop. True or not? I will probably take off the covers and have a
look at the belt, but there are lots of things to take apart to see it
and the engine does have 250,000 km on it. Sooo....

Finally, I'm looking for a shop manual. I'm sort of familiar with
Chiltons's and Haynes and I guess they're "OK" if I can't find
something better. Anyone have anything available or an opinion on
what's best of those two choices? I'd like something with good and
complete information, not a discussion of how to change sparkplugs!

Dave

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Nick Lamendola - 27 Mar 2007 02:21 GMT

Sorry Dave,
But the 2.2l and the 2.5l subaru engines are zero clearance engines. If the
timing belt breaks you will damge the engine seriously. Best bet is to
replace the timing belt every 105k miles. The old 1.8l engine in the
Loyalle's were not zero cleance engines. I know first hand because I had one
break on me on the expressway one morning. I coasted to the side of the
road, where I pulled the distributor cap and had someone crank the engine,
the distributor didn't rotate. There were 2 belts on that engine, I was
lucky that the left side broke, made it easy to figure out what was wrong.
Had it towed home and replace both belts that day and was back on my way for
another 40k miles untill it was too rusty w/ too mant body holes to safely
drive. That SPFI was a good engine, I don't like working on the 2.5l, even
replacing the spark plugs is a chore. Just my opinion.
-Nick

> Hi:
>
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
>
> Dave

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S - 28 Mar 2007 17:54 GMT

Hi Dave!

>First, I don't need the AC where we live so has anyone tried removing
>the drive belt to the compressor - I'm thinking it would give
>slightly better gas mileage - one less thing to turn... Any comments
>about this?

No worries, just pull the belt. Doubt you'll see any mileage change,
but one less thing to go wrong. AC does get involved with the
operation of the defroster, but I'm sure it'll work just fine w/o.

>Second, I've read several posts about the importance of keeping all
>tires at even wear, change all tires at the same time, etc, because of
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>anything, but I might want to just put new tires on the front rather
>than replace all four....

They need to be the same diameter (circumference, actually) all
around, as close as possible. If you must run a different diameter
tire, best to put it on the rear. (Unless your car has an LSD rear,
then you might prefer it on the front.) I don't know how much
difference is too much, but certainly these cars wear the fronts
faster than the rears, so the system has to be somewhat tolerant. New
tires on the front, and 1/2 worn ones on the back, as long as they're
the same tire (not simply the same numerical size), should be fine.

>Third, I've also heard that on this engine if the cam drive belt
>breaks, there is not likely to be any damage - the thing will just
>stop. True or not? I will probably take off the covers and have a
>look at the belt, but there are lots of things to take apart to see it
>and the engine does have 250,000 km on it. Sooo....

I've heard that the EJ22 is a non-interference engine. I've also seen
at least one instance of bent valves resulting from a timing belt
failure. Best bet is to simply replace the belt and idlers regularly.
Really a fairly simple job on the EJ22, but you will need to pull the
radiator and crank pulley. The crank pulley can be a bear if you don't
have the correct holder, and if you don't get it tight enough (how
tight? very tight.) when you reassemble, you risk damage to the crank
end. I have heard it suggested that you can stall the crank by
stuffing a bit of nylon rope into the #1 sparkplug hole and bringing
the piston up towards TDC on the compression stroke. Never tried this,
but then I have a home-made holder . . .

Anyone on the group ever try this trick?

I will also add that _if_ you are willing to dispense with the AC, you
can then remove the AC condenser (after being ecologically proper and
_pumping_ the Freon out, naturally ;-), which should then allow you to
get an impact wrench on the crank pulley bolt.

>Finally, I'm looking for a shop manual. I'm sort of familiar with
>Chiltons's and Haynes and I guess they're "OK" if I can't find
>something better. Anyone have anything available or an opinion on
>what's best of those two choices? I'd like something with good and
>complete information, not a discussion of how to change sparkplugs!

Choices limited to either the Chaynes books, or a factory set. Haven't
seen the factory set on CD, but possible it exists. Otherwise shop
ebay; probably get a paper set for ~$100.

ByeBye! S.
Steve Jernigan KG0MB
Laboratory Manager
Microelectronics Research
University of Colorado
(719) 262-3101

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