I used to replace the pads on my FIAT with a screwdriver, pliers, a hammer
and a C clamp.
1-Pull cotter pins on shims with pliers
2-Drift out the shims by tapping on them with screwdriver/hammer
3-With pad out use C-clamp to push caliper piston back far enough so new pad
will fit.
4-Reverse process
I now have a '93 Impreza LS with front and rear discs (14" wheels). Is the
above process
going to work or are there some tricks to the Subaru's?
hippo - 29 Jun 2007 08:49 GMT
>I used to replace the pads on my FIAT with a screwdriver, pliers, a hammer
>and a C clamp.
>1-Pull cotter pins on shims with pliers
>2-Drift out the shims by tapping on them with screwdriver/hammer
>3-With pad out use C-clamp to push caliper piston back far enough so new
>pad
>will fit.
>4-Reverse process
>I now have a '93 Impreza LS with front and rear discs (14" wheels). Is
>the
>above process
>going to work or are there some tricks to the Subaru's?
* Remove wheel (well I don't have to on the bike ok?)
* Remove bottom bolt from caliper
* Swing caliper up
* Remove clip and pads & remember where shims and wear indicators go if
fitted
* Push piston right back
* Check rotor condition then reverse proc, making sure that shims and co
go back correctly
* You may need to jiggle the caliper a bit to get both pads to clear the
edge of the rotor
* Tighten bolt, replace wheel and pump pedal to clear slop *before*
driving
Oh yeah ... and you won't have to shut your eyes to avoid seeing the rust
holes in the firewall and the front crossmember like I usually had to on
older Fiats either! Cheers
L. Ross Raszewski - 29 Jun 2007 13:38 GMT
>I used to replace the pads on my FIAT with a screwdriver, pliers, a hammer
>and a C clamp.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>above process
>going to work or are there some tricks to the Subaru's?
That sounds about right to me. The main thing I recall from changing
the pads on a Subaru of that era is that moving the caliper will
loosen the bleeder valve for the brake line. I'd spilled quite a bit
of brake fluid before I got that fixed.
Oh, and get the biggest C-clamp you can find. We had a really hard
time getting it to find purchase on the piston.
Mike - 29 Jun 2007 15:33 GMT
They do sell an inexpensive easy to use tool for that at autozone, advance
or probably anywhere. All it is is a piece of metal and a screw.
> Oh, and get the biggest C-clamp you can find. We had a really hard
> time getting it to find purchase on the piston.
Todd H. - 29 Jun 2007 16:32 GMT
> They do sell an inexpensive easy to use tool for that at autozone, advance
> or probably anywhere. All it is is a piece of metal and a screw.
> > Oh, and get the biggest C-clamp you can find. We had a really hard
> > time getting it to find purchase on the piston.
In my experience, a caulk gun and a could paint stirring flats can
even do the honors....
--
Todd H.
2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
Chicago, Illinois USA
Todd H. - 29 Jun 2007 16:38 GMT
> > They do sell an inexpensive easy to use tool for that at autozone, advance
> > or probably anywhere. All it is is a piece of metal and a screw.
> > > Oh, and get the biggest C-clamp you can find. We had a really hard
> > > time getting it to find purchase on the piston.
>
> In my experience, a caulk gun and a could
that last word was supposed to be "couple"
>paint stirring flats can
> even do the honors....

Signature
--
Todd H.
2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4
Chicago, Illinois USA
hippo - 30 Jun 2007 07:11 GMT
>> > They do sell an inexpensive easy to use tool for that at autozone, advance
>> > or probably anywhere. All it is is a piece of metal and a screw.
>> > > Oh, and get the biggest C-clamp you can find. We had a really hard
>> > > time getting it to find purchase on the piston.
>>
>> In my experience, a caulk gun and a could
>that last word was supposed to be "couple"
>>paint stirring flats can
>> even do the honors....
Sounds fair enough, but I usually just use the wheelbrace from the
toolkit. Works fine once you get the angle in the right place. Cheers
QX - 30 Jun 2007 13:32 GMT
>I used to replace the pads on my FIAT with a screwdriver, pliers, a hammer
>and a C clamp.
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>above process
>going to work or are there some tricks to the Subaru's?
FWIW, dealer quoted me $250 per axle for brakes on my late model
Forester.