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Car Forum / Subaru Cars / July 2008FYI: 2001 liftgate cylinder replacement
For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: From the snowbelt... I encountered my first dead rusted part. The lower pin of the left (driver's) side rear hatch lift cylinder on my 2001 Outback rusted and sheared a week or so ago. It's a little bolt with a "ball" on the head that snaps into the socket of the extension arm of the pneumatic lift cylinder. I think the cylinder finally bound or became so hard to compress that it sheared the aging rusting lower pin. subarugenuineparts.com replacement cost for the cylinder assembly was $68 and included the pin, the cylinder and the upper bolts. Installation was trivial: involved just a 10mm socket on the two upper bolts (or a large phillips head screwddriver), and a 12mm open end wrench for the lower pin. Good as new. While I was at it I put some white lithium grease on the other cylinder in hopes of keeping it running smoothly and avoiding the same fate. It looks pretty rusty too, but we'll see. Carl, thanks for the tip on subarugenuineparts.com and encouragement to email their customer service folks (cus that OEM parts website SUCKS--can't find anything the first time it seems). I got a prompt response from the woman who handles those requests and all went smoothly. Best Regards, -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA Thanks for the post > For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 > Chicago, Illinois USA > For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 > Chicago, Illinois USA I have no connection with them. Just a happy 3 times customer. If you spoke to Jamie, she is great! check her personal racing website at www.subiegal.com . Carl  Signatureto reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) >> For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: From the >> snowbelt... I encountered my first dead rusted part. The lower pin [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > spoke to Jamie, she is great! check her personal racing website at > www.subiegal.com . Yeah, it was Jamie who helped me. I need to ping her about these oil filters they sent me though. They _seem_ smaller than the last ones I had, and I'd sure hate to be in mid oil change to find out they aren't right. Where can I find the right subaru oem filter part number for my car? -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA >>>For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: From the >>>snowbelt... I encountered my first dead rusted part. The lower pin [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 > Chicago, Illinois USA Not sure on the part number thing - maybe www.cars101.com? But, the sube filters of 3-4 years ago were leaking from the crimp and FHI started sourcing them from somewhere else. Dunno if you got 'old' stock or new - maybe email jamie. I DO know that my wife's 03 OBW with the H6 uses the precise same filter as my 06 WRX!!! And they do seem small - but folks claim it's the inside that matters - filter area, mesh, silicone valves,etc. Carl Signatureto reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) > For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > finally bound or became so hard to compress that it sheared the aging > rusting lower pin. Yeah, that happened to me a couple of years ago too. The thing was there was no visible sign of rusting on the part, it just snapped anyways. I had thought of fixing it myself at that time too, but the strut looked like it would be too hard to stretch and pull open when installing, so I let the dealer do it. Yousuf Khan >> For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: From the >> snowbelt... I encountered my first dead rusted part. The lower pin [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > strut looked like it would be too hard to stretch and pull open when > installing, so I let the dealer do it. The strut actually comes extended (if it wasn't that way naturally then it wouldn't hold the door open very well, I guess). Compressing it a little was needed, but you can do that with the help of the door once you install the upper part. You'll have half the weight of the hatch on your head as you do this unless you were bright enough to bring somethign to prop the lid up or have a helper handy. Signature-- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA > The strut actually comes extended (if it wasn't that way naturally > then it wouldn't hold the door open very well, I guess). Compressing > it a little was needed, but you can do that with the help of the door > once you install the upper part. You'll have half the weight of the > hatch on your head as you do this unless you were bright enough to > bring somethign to prop the lid up or have a helper handy. Yeah, basically helpers were hard to come by, so I was all on my own, so I just let the dealership do it. They don't seem to have a shortage of helpers. :-) >> The strut actually comes extended (if it wasn't that way naturally >> then it wouldn't hold the door open very well, I guess). Compressing [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > so I just let the dealership do it. They don't seem to have a shortage > of helpers. :-) Hee hee. Yeah, hopefully they didnt' charge too much. I was helperless but the hatch on head technique worked acceptably. -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA > For the net.archive in case someone has a similar issue: > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > subarugenuineparts.com replacement cost for the cylinder assembly was > $68 and included the pin, the cylinder and the upper bolts. *correction* This part was actually only $42. The list on it is in the low $60's. > Installation was trivial: involved just a 10mm socket on the two upper > bolts (or a large phillips head screwddriver), and a 12mm open end [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Best Regards, -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA |
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