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Car Forum / Subaru Cars / October 2008Outback running hot
Hi all. I have an 04 Subbi Outback. Over the last few months I've noticed the temp gauge almost at redline. It used to run solid, right at the halfway point but now, somewhat often I'll look at it and it's right at the beginning of redline. Then, as I watch, it will slowly sink back to the halfway point. Then this will repeat after a few minutes or so. Any idea what this might be? Bad thermostat? Something else? Thanks in advance. Stuck thermostat? The Subby ones are a bit different than normal ones. Have you checked the coolant level? Gotten it nice and hot and looked at the overflow tank for bubbles? Checked the oil for milky appearance? > Hi all. > I have an 04 Subbi Outback. Over the last few months I've noticed the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks in advance. > Hi all. > I have an 04 Subbi Outback. Over the last few months I've noticed the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks in advance. Head gaskets are a big problem on these, so that'd be my first worry. Coolant level/appearance? Ever had the radiator serviced, coolant replaced? If so recently did the person doing it understand the rather specific burping procedure involved with Subarus to ensure there is no air in the system? Thermostat stuck closed would certainly be the happiest of scenarios. Also, don't forget the "run the heater on full blast" trick to help cool down your near-overheating engine. Remarkable how much it can help reduce your blood pressure as the needle creeps up there. Do get it into service asafp. -- Todd H. 2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA > Hi all. > I have an 04 Subbi Outback. Over the last few months I've noticed the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > > Thanks in advance. You say it sometimes cools back off. If it seems to begin creeping up at stop lights, then go back down after the car has been movingfor ward for a acoupla blocks - that would indicate the electric cooling fan is not running. As others have mentioned, some cars have finicky coolant re-fill procedures or can have air entrained in the system if allowed to get low on coolant. Bad thermostat, maybe even bad radiator cap are possible culprits. And then we get to bad headgaskets....... Carl  Signatureto reply, change ( .not) to ( .net) >> Hi all. >> I have an 04 Subbi Outback. Over the last few months I've noticed the [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >> >> Thanks in advance. >You say it sometimes cools back off. If it seems to begin creeping up a >stop lights, then go back down after the car has been movingfor ward fo >a acoupla blocks - that would indicate the electric cooling fan is not >running. >As others have mentioned, some cars have finicky coolant re-fill >procedures or can have air entrained in the system if allowed to get lo >on coolant. Bad thermostat, maybe even bad radiator cap are possible >culprits. And then we get to bad headgaskets....... >Carl All good posts but Carl's given you the cheapest/easiest first check. Nex time it happens, pull over safely asap but while it's still showing ho then open up and check that the fan is actually running. If not chec fuse, sensor, fan and get it going again. Otherwise you just have to g through the checklist of possibilities. BTW, I'd find & fix it *soon* or else drive it minimally until you do Cheers - Message posted using http://www.talkaboutautos.com/group/alt.autos.subaru More information at http://www.talkaboutautos.com/faq.htm I had a problem with mine running hot only when I was driving with the engine from about 2100 to 3200 RPM. Idling was not an issue. But if I were donig about 55 mph or so, then it would start getting hot and even got near the red zione a few times. To battle it I would downshift to get the revs up and it would help. I thought it was the ECU had messed up timing or something. I checked the coolant level and all the things I could think of. I couldn't shake it. Then I changed my oil, which I had neglected to do for about 6k miles. It ran so much better after that. I'm not sure of the mechanism behind it, but I know that hte oil change was the fix, because few months later when I was up to about 5k miles on that oil it started running hot again. I changed it, and all was better. Then again our engines are different. I have the 2.2 liter in a 95 with over 200k miles. > I had a problem with mine running hot only when I was driving with the > engine from about 2100 to 3200 RPM. Idling was not an issue. But if I [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Then again our engines are different. I have the 2.2 liter in a 95 > with over 200k miles. Hi all again, OP here. The description from weelliott is the closest to what is happening with mine. I should have checked the obvious before posting here but I thought I would wait for replies to come in as I did the simple things. Anyway, Oil level and appearance are good. I had just done an oil change about 2200 miles ago. No white froth on the stick. The coolant level was low. I added a half gallon of coolant. I used PEAK brand premixed 50/50. Most went into the rad and some into the overflow res. The problem only occurred to and from work as I drive the back roads, averaging 40-50 mph at 2000-3000 rpm. I won't be duplicating those conditions until Monday next. I'd like to think it will solve the problem. Does anyone know the burping procedure for this car as I haven't seen a Chiltons or Haynes for this car. May not be an issue but then again, it might. Anyway, thanks for the replies and I'll post back in a few days with the results, if anyone is interested. >> I had a problem with mine running hot only when I was driving with the >> engine from about 2100 to 3200 RPM. Idling was not an issue. But if I [quoted text clipped - 34 lines] > Anyway, thanks for the replies and I'll post back in a few days with > the results, if anyone is interested. Here are a few comments based on my experience with my 00 OBW. Your tstat could be starting to fail. Only replace with an OEM part. 3rd party parts may not have adequate flow. Found one high qlty 3rd party part only had 60% as large of a water passage as OEM part. Radiator has very small water passages. Easy to plug. Wouldn't recommend any stop leak kind of product other than OEM that was recommended as a stop gap measure for some models with head gasket problems. Subie engines have the tendency to trap air in the block when coolant is changed. This is due to the boxer design and fact the crossover pipe between the left and right side in located mid-point and with engine pointed slightly up at the front, air gets trapped in the left front. Rad hose in on the right front so not a problem here. Don't have the car up on ramps when trying to purge air from the cooling system. I purge the air using the factory guide as the basis for what I do. After filling the cooling system, I leave the rad cap off so no pressure develops in the system. Start the engine and run it ~ 2k-2.5k rpm for >5 min. Time will vary on amb temp. You do need to make sure the tstat is open and coolant is flowing throughout the system. I'd run the engine for 5 min after you can feel hot water is flowing in the rad. I next let the system to cool down, top up the rad if needed, reinstall the cap and make sure the coolant overflow tank is about half full. I'D watch the coolant level in the overflow tank for a couple days and make sure it is kept are recommended level. I used this procedure within the last couple weeks when I replaced the antifreeze. No heating issue and only a small drop in coolant level in the overflow tank after a couple days. |
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