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Car Forum / Subaru Cars / April 2009Nuts. Toasted engine?
1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... Started it last fall and had white smoke all over the place. After using the Genie in the bottle I took it out for a ride, and it took a LONG time to get hot, but when it got hot, it got HOT!!! I had to move the car in November after sitting for two months and the smoke was pretty incredible. I'm wondering, warped heads? Cracked heads? The car has 335,000 but is solid, the motor supposedly has 120K but no one really knows. It was a swap. If I can do this for $600 or less, OK. If not...what's the current price of scrap? > 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic > headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > If I can do this for $600 or less, OK. If not...what's the current price > of scrap? Man So Sorry for you... Unfortaintlly scarap aint worth sh*t. How much for another engine in your area? >> 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic >> headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Man So Sorry for you... Unfortaintlly scarap aint worth sh*t. > How much for another engine in your area? I looked on car-part. Anywhere from a couple hundred up. I'm wondering if I should take the heads off and have them checked... > >> 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic > >> headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > I'm wondering if I should take the heads off and have them checked... I'd take the heads off and look, Check for warpage on the head AND the block; no more than 2 thousandths I believe. With the smoke(?) sounds like a gasket just gave way- it depends on how hot it got and if any damage was caused by that. What shape is the engine in? any oil leaks or other issues? Might be easier for you to yank the engine anyway. Oh, Back in Portland Oregon for Subaru school this week- two classes on manual transmissions >> >> 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic >> >> headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 26 lines] > Oh, Back in Portland Oregon for Subaru school this week- two classes > on manual transmissions The engine was running nice and strong. It was a good motor. I hope I didn't wreck it. Can the heads be planed? > >> >> 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic > >> >> headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > The engine was running nice and strong. It was a good motor. I hope I > didn't wreck it. Can the heads be planed? yes they can, but not the block. We send them out for a clean and surface, but don't magnaflux them- subes just don't have a cracking problem. the only way to see is to pull the heads. What kind of facilities do you have? a garage? access to a cherry picker? there are several different ways of approaching this. Guys at the shop peel the intake loose and roll it to the rear of the engine compartment, or pull it with the engine and unbolt it but only lift it enough to clear the heads. Let me know your thoughts... >> >> >> 1997 Legacy L AWD wagon. Had an overheating problem. Tried the magic >> >> >> headgasket in a bottle (worked on my '89 Coupe)... [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > enough to clear the heads. > Let me know your thoughts... Thoughts? What are thoughts? OH! Those things that give me headaches! I'm a novice. I only started getting greasy about 7 years ago, and only because I couldn't afford a commercial brake job. After seeing how easy that was I began to wonder what else was that easy (Um, not *quite* everything...) I was an electronics tech for 17 years, and an electro-mechanical tech for 5. After spending a good amount of my career trublshooting and fixing things, and working with engineers, how hard can it be? (Remind me to tell you of the 9 hour CV/axle change on my '89 Mazda...) I've heard (here, from Steve, IIRC) that I can loosen the mounts, lift the engine and unbolt the heads. I was going to pull the engine and do belts, seals, etc but I'll wait to see what the condition is, I guess. Blocks warp? Oh. What's a "cherry picker"? > Blocks warp? > > Oh. What's a "cherry picker"? Block warp- just like the heads- if it gets hot enough it distorts at the head mating surface. if it's warped, its bad. Happens occasionally, but not regularly. Cherry picker=engine hoist. Look at your knock sensor-if it has a "melted" look, the block got too hot and its toast. we call it the overheat sensr, and if a car comes in we check it forst-melted, we are done Is this an auto trans or manual? Auto's have the torque converter bolts that are difficult to remove to yank the engine In theory you could jack the engine and get the heads off; its kinda the way we do it at work, but were on a hoist and do most of it from the bottom >> Blocks warp? >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > Is this an auto trans or manual? Auto's have the torque converter > bolts that are difficult to remove to yank the engine Auto. Of course it's difficult! > In theory you could jack the engine and get the heads off; its kinda > the way we do it at work, but were on a hoist and do most of it from > the bottom I may be able to get the use of a lift (floor lift, that is), but not for a long time. How long would it take a novice to do this? Um, where's the knock sensor? Does it look like a Toyota knock sensor? If you do pull the engine the converter bolts have small heads and are easy to round. Use only a high quality wrench to remove. Once you round just one of the bolts you gave a real mess. Another problem area is reinstalling the transmission. The torque converter may appear to be fully seated but almost always it isn't. You will know if not fully seated because there will be a 1/4 inch gap between the transmission and engine. Hard to explain but if the transmission and engine mate with no gap then good to go and tighten the bellhousing bolts. If there is a 1/4 inch gap, do not tighten the bellhousing bolts because all you will accomplish is breaking the internal pump. Now the transmission is junk. Sometimes it takes a long time to fully seat the TC. The radiator probably needs replaced now because of that additive. Do need to break any of the AC lines. Just unbolt the compressor and sit it over to the side. Research reinstalling the transmission. Probably someone has posted photos. > >> Blocks warp? > [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > > Um, where's the knock sensor? Does it look like a Toyota knock sensor? knock sensor: On the block above the starter and below the throttle body, near the center of the block but towards the drivers side. A black round sensor with wires and a bolt dead cennter through it. should look in shape like one of those small peanutbutter cups. if it has a rounded look on the top edges, its and the block is done. |
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