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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / April 2005

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Brake problem

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webbi surfer - 24 Apr 2005 18:26 GMT
I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of
driving by themselves.

I does not have anti lock brakes.

Thanks in advance.
davidj92 - 24 Apr 2005 19:50 GMT
> I have a 1992 XLE and the brakes come on after about 20 minute of
> driving by themselves.
>
> I does not have anti lock brakes.
>
> Thanks in advance.

Several things could cause this.
Old fluid with high moisture content can cause brakes to drag.
Brakes dragging due to sticking hardware will cause excess heat which will
boil the fluid and apply brakes.
A bad master cylinder can stick and cause brakes to drag.
A bad hose internally can cause brakes to drag.
A bad vacumm booster can stick and cause brakes to drag.
If you don't have the skills to check these items I recommend taking to shop
of your choice.
HTH, davidj92
webbi surfer - 24 Apr 2005 21:16 GMT
Thank you David,it's driving me nuts.

The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before.

We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and it
still does it.
Daniel - 24 Apr 2005 23:33 GMT
Never had this happen but have heard of it happening to others:
Replace the flexible lines to the wheels.
Those flex lines can have a portion come loose internally that blocks
the flow of hydraulic fluid, so after applying the brakes for a while
they won't release because the pressure can't escape back through those
lines.
A good mechanic should be familiar with this phenomenon.
davidj92 - 26 Apr 2005 22:53 GMT
> Thank you David,it's driving me nuts.
>
> The mechanic says he never heard of this happening before.
>
> We disconnected the booster from the vacuum line and dove the car and
> it still does it.

If your mechanic has never heard of dragging brakes and can't diagnose you
need a new mechanic. If he's never heard of a vacuum booster causing a brake
drag then he may not be so bad as a lot of mechanics haven't.
As another poster suggested, start by bleeding your brakes. Bleed in the
order RR, LR, RF and then LF. Bleed until fluid runs clear, monitoring fluid
level in master cylinder to make sure you don't get air in lines.
This is a good time to check slides or slide pins on calipers to see if they
are dry. If so, this can cause drag, brake lube will solve this.
When you test drive, if the brakes drag again, try pulling up on the brake
pedal with your foot. If this releases the drag then you probably have a bad
master cylinder or booster. More likely a master cylinder. Usually when the
booster is bad you can hear a vacuum leak and if you disconnect the vacuum
then the problem goes away.
If not then when brakes start to drag, stop and crack each bleeder screw. If
there is a lot of pressure and brake fluid sprays out under pressure then
the flexible hose is bad internally causing pressure to hold.
HTH, davidj92
Nick n Kentucky - 27 Apr 2005 00:16 GMT
David,
when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so minutes
of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving.
Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels?

Thanks
davidj92 - 28 Apr 2005 10:59 GMT
Yes, the flexible hoses that go to the wheels from the frame.

> David,
> when this happens the brake pedal has no travel-(after 10 or so
> minutes of driving)- I have normal pedal travel before driving.
> Are you talkng about the hoses on the wheels?
>
> Thanks
webbi surfer - 29 Apr 2005 22:51 GMT
Thanks Again David,I replaced the Master cylinder and it solved the
problem,I did order the hoses and will install then as soon as I get
them.

You gave me the confidence to proceed I am very grateful for all the
advice.
Hopkins - 25 Apr 2005 13:48 GMT
I'd go through the checklist davidj92 provided, starting with bleeding
all 4 lines and continuing on to the next cheapest item on the list.
 
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