Drop the pan put in a new filter, Dealers overcharge for this.

Drop the pan and replace the strainer/filter. Clean the metal shavings
from the magnets and the bottom of the pan. Fram has a kit with cork
rubber gasket for about $17. Don't use a gasket with recycled tire
rubber. Make sure you change out the strainer/filter.

I suppose it wouldn't hurt to remove the pan and clean or replace the
strainer and clean the magnets as others have suggested, but my view is
that you only need to drain and fill the transmission fluid when you do
the engine oil.
You say it is still slightly pink. What I do, is compare it to new
transmission fluid and if the color is different, change it. You're
only removing a portion with drain and fill, so changing it regularly
helps.
In my opinion, there shouldn't be any need to replace or service the
filter screen. It is just a wire mesh screen - not filter media like an
air or oil filter.
On mine there are three permanent magnets on the inside bottom of the
pan to trap metal fragments or filings. In my humble opinion, that
ought to be sufficient to hold them out of circulation for the life of
the car. If the gasket were leaking and you remove the pan I would
definitely clean them, but would not remove the pan just to do that.
The inside of the transmission must be kept scrupulously clean. Even a
tiny bit of thread from a rag snagging on a rough casting can interfere
with the proper operation of the valve body, so in my opinion, it is
best not to open the case unless necessary.
If you do remove and clean the pan and magnets, the correct way is to
spray with solvent and then air dry or use compressed air - not a rag.
The prior owner had someone replace or service something so I had a
leaking gasket  and had the pan removed interior surface and magnets
cleaned along with the filter strainer. Then the gasket leaked again,
so the next time I purchased a new gasket from the dealer. Then I
discovered the reason for the leak - two of the transmission pan bolts
were stripped. They're only supposed to be tightened to a measurement
in "inch" pounds of torque, so seems a prior mechanic over tightened
them and didn't say anything about it. Thank God I was able to thread
longer bolts through the case in those locations which worked fine.
Perhaps the tendency to easily ruin those threads may be another reason
not to remove the pan unnecessarily.
Transmission fluid is highly detergent, and if you change it regularly,
I would think you should be fine.
My suggestions if you're doing your own work are these:
1) by letting it drain over night, you'll get almost an extra quart to
come out
2) by using an inexpensive telescoping magnet, you can retrieve the
drain plug from a plastic drain pan without having to reach into hot
transmission fluid
3) by measuring the old fluid into old oil bottles with a measurement
strip on the side, you can come extremely close to filling in the exact
right quantity of new transmission fluid
4) be certain you drive at least ten (10) miles to bring the
transmission fully up to normal operating temperature before making the
final level check.