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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / July 2006How to set TDC on 3S-FE engine?
Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt is not on yet. Setting the crankshaft for TDC is simple enough. That is set. Damper pulley mark is at zero mark. However the marks that are behind the camshaft pulley are confusing....because there are three! Behind the pulley---I guess that is the lip of the camshaft bearing...there are two round indentations, and then there is a raised line. As I have it positioned now, the little cam pulley hole is at about 12 o'clock, lined up with up with the first round indentation. I thought that was THE mark....only to notice later that if you continue around, the hole lines up with another round dimple, and then a raised line. The raised line is now more or less in line with the narrow "peak" of the rear #1 piston cam lobes... .and they are pointing at about the 9 o'clock position--- pointing towards the rear of the car. All four #1 valves appear to be closed. I can't find my haynes manual now to check... but I thought it showed the cam pulley hole at 12 o'clock, for TDC on compression stroke. I was also thinking that the #1 cam lobes would be pointing straight up. With this position on the camshaft pulley, I took the dist. cap off, and the rotor is pointing *generally* towards the #1 spark wire. But... it could be around 20 degrees off from dead center on the #1 spark electrode, because you have to pull the cap way off/outward to see where electrode and rotor are in relation to one another. What it looks like is that if I set it so the cam pulley hole is lined up with that raised line--- rather than on one of the dimples---the rotor would be quite a bit off from the #1 spark electrode. When I got the car (180K miles on it), there was a loud bearing grinding noise coming from the front of the engine. So I knew something was worn out and about to fail. Sure enough, when I removed the water pump, the corrosion and wear damage to the impeller and bearing were so bad that I could not even turn it by hand! So it is a good thing I tore the engine down to replace the parts on the front of the engine now rather than later. Thanks, Geronimo >Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing >timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > >Thanks, Geronimo FWIW.... http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html Also check the AutoZone free repair guide for the 88 Camry: http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1 3/e6/07/0900823d8013e607.jsp > Am replacing oil pump and water pump on '88 Camry wagon. Also changing > timing belt. Never done a big job like this before. New timing belt [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Thanks, Geronimo The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks). They say nothing about the correct position of the #1 piston cam lobes, either. Come to think of it, I set it for TDC, aligning cam sprocket hole, before ever releasing timing belt tension/changing the relationship in any way. Trouble is I dont remember for sure what cam sprocket mark it was lined up with now, as it has been torn down for so long. Was it the raised line or a dimple mark? And the camshaft cover was on then, so I couldn't see the position of the #1 piston cam lobes. I lost the setting, as it was necessry to move both the camshaft and crankshaft after removing timing belt and other parts. The other problem I see putting the engine back together is that there was no crankshaft timing sprocket guide....that "cupped washer".... when I took the engine apart. No telling how many tens of thousands of miles were put on the engine without it, so apparently the timing belt can't get out of position when restrained by the timing cover (or former owner was just lucky). So l would like to obtain one so it is re-assembled right this time. Is this something I can buy, no problem? Thanks geronimo >Also check the AutoZone free repair guide for the 88 Camry: > [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] >> >> Thanks, Geronimo Aligning the cam and crank marks is the easiest way to make sure the correct positioning for installing the timing belt. If the marks are aligned then the engine is at TDC for the specified cylinder. If it's on the exhaust cycle, then the cam mark will be 180deg off. It should be easy to see. For the 5SFE it's using the hole in the cam sprocket. There is only one hole and one mark. Don't know about the other marks on the 3SFE cam sprocket/cover. You should buy the crankshft belt guide from the dealer, after all you put in all the work. > The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to > align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks). [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > problem? > Thanks geronimo I figured it out! geronimo >The info from Autozone and manual from Oregon U. both only tell you to >align the camshaft sprocket hole with the "match-mark". ( Not marks). [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] >>> >>> Thanks, Geronimo |
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