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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / July 200696 Camry, idle and IAC/EGR question
I've read a few threads on the top of idling problems and I'm guessing that my 96 4cyl Camry (US made, 140k) may be having an IAC or EGR issue. The car has been driving fine since I got it from my dad last December. Once warmer weather started, it would very rarely have an issue with warm-starting. It would crank as normal and then cut off. Up until yesterday a re-start was all that was required and the problem seemed to correct itself. Now, the car starts fine but simply won't idle, no matter whether it's warm or cold. In the various threads I've seen, there appears to be some difference of opinon as to whether this may be an EGR or IAC problem and I'm looking for a good 'shade-tree' mechanic's approach to identifying the problem (and performing some cleaning perhaps). For the time-being, my fix has been to simply adjust the idle screw out far enough to ensure a normal idle speed so it doesn't die. Anything wrong with that approach? > I've read a few threads on the top of idling problems and I'm guessing > that my 96 4cyl Camry (US made, 140k) may be having an IAC or EGR [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > far enough to ensure a normal idle speed so it doesn't die. Anything > wrong with that approach? As a band-aid fix its OK, but it will cause the vehicle to idle too high when the IAC starts to work properly,..they are usually intermittantly unserviceable when they start sticking. The idle stop is moveable to stop fast idle-back for emmission control measures from memory. Try doing a Google on the IAC valve for V6s. Jason > > I've read a few threads on the top of idling problems and I'm guessing > > that my 96 4cyl Camry (US made, 140k) may be having an IAC or EGR [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > > Jason Well, funny enough, it's working again. Most probablyan IAC issue, I'm assuming. I had to re-do my previous idle adjustment and all is well. Any ideas regarding a competitive price for parts and labor for IAC replacement? I would do it myself, but with a regular job, a wife and 3 kids -- well, if we can afford it, I'd rather have it done. Thanks!! The IAC will continue to give you problems, even if you install a new one. The most economical way to fix it is to clean it periodically. Avoid spraying throttle body cleaner into the electrical side of the valve. You may need to buy a new IAC rubber gasket. I just reuse the old one if it's not damaged, but it's good to have one handy just in case. You don't want any coolant in the mixture. Do a search on cleaning the IAC. Daniel's message below suggested using some bike teflon spray. Check AutoZone's free online repair guide on the 96 on the IAC. http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1 3/eb/ef/0900823d8013ebef.jsp From: Daniel - view profile Date: Tues, Nov 29 2005 7:28 am Email: "Daniel" <nospampls2...@yahoo.com> Groups: alt.autos.toyota.camry My answer is part conjecture, and part speculation but seems to have worked for me. I used to clean the idle control valve ("IAC" - idle air control valve) with carburetor cleaner, when people said better to replace with new for more durable results. Since it seemed to need cleaning more frequently, I replaced it and followed all the procedures in the Factory Service manual for the associated throttle body removal and cleaning. Then the problem recurred! I had deconstructed the old IAC valve just to see how it was put together. IIRC, it had a bimetallic thermostatic coil on one end and an electromagnetic coil on the other. There is a cylindrical shaped piece of metal that rotates to open a port, but this is metal to metal contact with no provision for lubrication. So I began using TriFlow spray lubricant with Teflon and it seems to work quite well. A small amount can be sprayed into the rectangular opening at the bottom of the entrance to the throttle body which is the air inlet to the valve. I've tried spraying both cold and warm, depending on conditions. Seems to work well for me. I was not about to replace that valve again after having installed a factory fresh one and having the problem recur. > Well, funny enough, it's working again. Most probablyan IAC issue, I'm > assuming. I had to re-do my previous idle adjustment and all is well. > > Any ideas regarding a competitive price for parts and labor for IAC > replacement? I would do it myself, but with a regular job, a wife and 3 > kids -- well, if we can afford it, I'd rather have it done. Thanks!! > > > I've read a few threads on the top of idling problems and I'm guessing > > > that my 96 4cyl Camry (US made, 140k) may be having an IAC or EGR [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > replacement? I would do it myself, but with a regular job, a wife and 3 > kids -- well, if we can afford it, I'd rather have it done. Thanks!! See John Dole's reply, he has included a link to Daniel's excellent desription on how to service the IAC yourself. Jason > > > > I've read a few threads on the top of idling problems and I'm guessing > > > > that my 96 4cyl Camry (US made, 140k) may be having an IAC or EGR [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] > > Jason Great stuff! Thanks! I am having the same problem with my '96 auto trans 2.2 Camry. It stalls out a lights or when at idle. It usually restarts right away but sometimes it takes some cranking. I started with changing the plugs, plug wires, Distributor cap and rotor. Problem was still there. I replaced the EGR and the nearby vacuum servo. Problem still there. I took the vacuum line off the top of the EGR and blocked it off. Drove on freeway and city streets to work and it ran fine no stalls. The Check engine light will light up when you do this BTW. Okay so I thought that I had narrowed it down. But at lunch it did the stalling at idle again. SO I am willing to try the ECT. |
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