Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / April 2007
ECT sensor questions
|
|
Thread rating:  |
mrdarrett@gmail.com - 18 Mar 2007 09:06 GMT So, following the directions in my Haynes for my '96 Camry, I checked the resistance and voltage of my ECT temperature sensor (the one just upstream of the upper radiator hose). On a warm car, the resistance was about 100 ohms. Seemed a bit low.
Voltage was 10 volts. (Haynes said it should be 5V.)
I looked into this because the car stalled again, one week after changing the tranny fluid. (I was pretty sure that it was a stuck torque converter lock, too...)
So, what do I do now...? 10V seems kind of high, ya?
By the way, the Toyota dealer had no idea what an ECT temperature sensor was. Anyone have a part number for this one for my car ('96, 4- banger)?
Thanks
Michael
jan siepelstad - 18 Mar 2007 12:54 GMT > So, following the directions in my Haynes for my '96 Camry, I checked > the resistance and voltage of my ECT temperature sensor (the one just [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Michael Strange. According to the maintenance manual I have (a chapter of 72 pages just about the cooling system). The ECT is a switch, mounted in the bottom of the radiator and is just switching on and off the cooling fan.
Jan.
mrdarrett@gmail.com - 20 Mar 2007 17:09 GMT > <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I saw that one (bottom of the radiator) too. The Toyota dealership said that's the only ECT they could find - and it's $110 at the dealership for that part.
Oh well...
Michael
johngdole@hotmail.com - 23 Mar 2007 00:50 GMT The ECT you mentioned is a variable resistor, not the ECT switch (Toyota could better differentiate them like the latter a "fan switch" everybody else calls.)
The variable resistor (near 0 hot, near infinity when cold). But it's on the water outlet like you described. It doesn't need voltage to operate.
100ohms is about the low end of the permitted range at around 210deg. Why do you think it's low or bad?
rockauto.com has one for as low as $23.99 (verify your application). The "fan switch" 36549 is about $50.
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TX40T {TRU-TECH} $23.99 $0.00 $23.99
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS Part # TX40 More Info $27.79 $0.00 $27.79
AIRTEX Part # 5S1517 More Info $28.79 $0.00 $28.79
BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1580421 More Info $31.79 $0.00 $31.79
ACDELCO Part # D583 More Info {#19022018} SENSOR,ENG COOL T/GA $37.79 $0.00 $37.79
FOUR SEASONS Part # 36424 More Info For AC $54.79 $0.00 $54.79
> So, following the directions in my Haynes for my '96 Camry, I checked > the resistance and voltage of my ECT temperature sensor (the one just [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Michael mrdarrett@gmail.com - 26 Mar 2007 16:46 GMT On Mar 22, 4:50 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> The ECT you mentioned is a variable resistor, not the ECT switch > (Toyota could better differentiate them like the latter a "fan switch" > everybody else calls.) Yep, I'm playing with the one on the water outlet. Is its operation critical? Does it provide information to the onboard computer, which controls other stuff?
It sure doesn't help that Toyota calls two different parts ECT. (This ECT? Oh. THAT ECT!)
> The variable resistor (near 0 hot, near infinity when cold). But it's > on the water outlet like you described. It doesn't need voltage to > operate. > > 100ohms is about the low end of the permitted range at around 210deg. > Why do you think it's low or bad? I'm trying to track down my stalling problem on my '96 4-banger (stalls only when warm, when slowing to a stoplight). So far tried cleaning the IAC, changed spark plugs (which were clean, by the way - no carbon buildup, as I was suspecting), replaced the leaking distributor O-ring (but the electrical contacts inside the distributor were squeaky clean), even changing tranny fluid in case of a stuck torque converter lock. Still stalling.
Next suspects: sensors, EGR, possibly onboard computer...?
I don't think it's the coils, since they work just fine on startup, and on the freeway. Changed fuel filter ~ 5 years ago.
10V instead of 5V really does seem kind of weird.
Thanks for the prices...
By the way - I changed the single-spark Pt. Bosch plugs my dad put in the '96 to dual Pt. Bosch plugs. What a difference in power! Even when the car stalled on the usual hill in Vallejo, the engine didn't quite completely die - just hovered between, oh, 200 and 600 rpm. Must be the new plugs...? ;-)
Michael
> rockauto.com has one for as low as $23.99 (verify your application). > The "fan switch" 36549 is about $50. [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > > - Show quoted text - mrdarrett@gmail.com - 27 Mar 2007 20:38 GMT On Mar 22, 4:50 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> The ECT you mentioned is a variable resistor, not the ECT switch > (Toyota could better differentiate them like the latter a "fan switch" [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > FOUR SEASONS Part # 36424 More Info For AC > $54.79 $0.00 $54.79 This is one of those situations where walking into a store is helpful.
With shipping, Part # TX40T costs $30+. AutoZone had it for $29.
I got the ECT sensor from AutoZone, then it turned out it's the wrong part. (It had two prongs for electrical connection. I need a single prong.)
I really needed the "ECT Switch" (that's what AutoZone calls it). $11.99. Will pick it up today (has to be transferred from another store).
Michael
videokid400@hotmail.com - 16 Apr 2007 04:09 GMT On Mar 28, 5:38 am, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Mar 22, 4:50 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > - Show quoted text - HOW is an ECT going to cause a stall when warm????? Just DOESNOT make sense. dave
mrdarrett@gmail.com - 16 Apr 2007 18:53 GMT On Apr 15, 8:09 pm, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Mar 28, 5:38 am, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 53 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I got the idea from this site, when I was researching my stalling problem:
http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?s=2fc32630ecb777e2fca9117f1047d31c& showtopic=8158&pid=618097&st=75&#entry618097
First post.
Pasted here, for your convenience:
-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-
Problem found and resolved on my fiancés 92 Camry: coolant temp sensor.
After exhibiting all the same symptoms as you all, I went down to the Toyota dealer who misdiagnosed the distributor and igniter as being at fault. After they charged and arm and a leg, it stalled at the next stop light on the way home. Furious at Toyota, but tired and wanting to get home, I waited for the car to cool enough for it to start again and carefully drove home, doing the gas/brake deely with both feet.
I then took the car to a friend of a friend, a trusted non-Toyota mechanic that came highly recommended. He had the problem figured out and solved in 2 days. As I came to pick up the car, he explained to me what he did and how he figured it out. He had a snap-on computer, just smaller than the size of a laptop hooked up to several sensors in the engine compartment; he actually drove the car with wires hanging out of the hood going through the window to his computer, which acted like a real-time analyzer and data logger. As soon as the symptom arose, it was the temperature sensor that caused the fault.
As most of you may know, temperature sensors are just over-sized thermistors, which are devices that output a change in resistance in proportion to the heat that is detected. The ECU measures this resistance to determine the temperature of the engine, and based on such, gives the appropriate amount of fuel to cylinders to combust. The problem is that over time (at least so I've been told with Toyota temp sensors), they can fail after getting to a certain temperature. They would function cold and as they get hotter and hotter, they short/ open and produce a false reading to the ECU. The ECU then sees this as a malfunction, and thinking that the motor is cold in an effort to avoid detonation, dumps WAY more fuel than needed and basically floods the engine. This is why after the car stalls and you try and start the car unsuccessfully, you can smell a heavy gas odor in/near the engine compartment. It's putting too much fuel for the temperature of the motor/air and stalling the motor. This is also why it stalls only when coming to a stop: because you don't have your foot on the gas to let more air in to balance out the extra fuel that is being sent into the engine.
Apparently, this is something of an issue with Toyota coolant temp sensors after a long period of time (at least told to me). I'm so ****** off with the Toyota dealer you cannot imagine. They cringe whenever I go down there because they couldn't fix my problem and charged me for something that wasn't even causing the issue. As far as I'm concerned, dealers can only fix problems to which they know the cause of, and do not know for the life of them how to troubleshoot issues! For this they can all go ........
videokid400@hotmail.com - 19 Apr 2007 04:24 GMT On Apr 17, 3:53 am, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 15, 8:09 pm, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 116 lines] > > - Show quoted text - mmm ok I spose,cant say ive herd of this as being a common problem in fact its a new one on me ,ill replicate it and see what results i get.never stop learning do we?as far as the Ecu reading this as the sole signal to provide mixture adjustment,........I dont think so it is in fact a second tear signal according to my wiring diagram and ecu scematic.possibly was a fault, but im wondering if it was the only fault. dave
videokid400@hotmail.com - 21 Apr 2007 13:03 GMT On Apr 19, 1:24 pm, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 17, 3:53 am, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 129 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Replicated this fault on the dyno today.In open and closed circuit conditions and for approx 45 mins .NO WARM STALL.,Slight hc elevation and increase in nox. dave
mrdarrett@gmail.com - 23 Apr 2007 21:15 GMT On Apr 21, 5:03 am, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 19, 1:24 pm, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 138 lines] > > - Show quoted text - How did you run the experiment? After the car entered closed loop mode (after running warm for awhile), did you pull off the plug to simulate a failure? How about pull off the plug and then short, to simulate a failure by short?
If only running without the ECT sensor plugged in, from the time it was cold, the computer might never enter closed loop mode, right?
Inquiring minds want to know
Michael
videokid400@hotmail.com - 23 Apr 2007 23:17 GMT On Apr 24, 6:15 am, mrdarr...@gmail.com wrote:
> On Apr 21, 5:03 am, videokid...@hotmail.com wrote: > [quoted text clipped - 154 lines] > > - Show quoted text - replicated using scan tool. dave
|
|
|