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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / March 200793 Camry timing belt replacement
I bought a 93 camry LE with 105,000 miles recently. The previous owner of 4 years has not replaced the timing belt (or done any preventive maintenance) and I'm not sure if it was replaced before that, but I think not. I'm thinking of getting the timing belt replaced. What other parts should I replace at the same time? Going through previous posts, it looks like a good idea to replace the Water Pump. Any other parts I should look at replacing at the same time? What are the other belts that have to be replaced? How much would the parts cost? Would appreciate suggestions and ideas. I'm a complete novice when it comes to cars. The mechanic quoted $200 in labor charges, is that a reasonable amount? Thanks, Ron > I bought a 93 camry LE with 105,000 miles recently. The previous owner > of 4 years has [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > comes to cars. The mechanic quoted $200 in labor charges, is that a > reasonable amount? That is not bad for labor for a Belt remove and replace, plus add the price of new belt, plus any other parts like seals, jockey and tensioner pulleys and water-pump shouldn't add too much more. The water-pump tho is a contentious point. A genuine Toyota pump is desirable IMO given the hassle to do it again if it fails early,...but how much are they? Jason > I bought a 93 camry LE with 105,000 miles recently. The previous owner > of 4 years has > not replaced the timing belt === 1994 Camry, 4 cylinder, 5S-FE Parts List * (Please see notes: Page 2) Name Part Number Cylinder Head Cover Gasket 11213-74020 8.91 Camshaft Oil Seal 90080-31023 5.40 Oil Filler Cap Gasket 90430-37140 1.22 Timing Gear Cover Gaskets: Upper 11329-74050 12.89 Middle 11319-63010 5.96 Lower 11328-74010 15.31 Ventilator Hose Valve Sub-Assy. (PCV Valve) 12204-74020 4.22 PCV Valve Grommet 90480-18001 3.02 Camshaft Timing Belt 13568-09041 26.39 Timing tensioner roller sub assy. . 13505-74011 68.40 Tensioner spring 90507-17003 2.08 Timing idler roller sub assy. 13503-63011 39.92 Crankshaft front oil seal 90080-31022 6.24 Oil Pump oil seal 15165-74020 5.04 Oil Pump Cover "O" ring 15188-63010 9.35 Quantity - 5 : - Engine oil filter 90915-YZZA2 4.06/20.30 Water Pump Assembly 16100-79185-83 72.03 By Pass Water Pipe Gasket 16258 included w/pump By Pass Water Pipe "O" ring 16268F included w/pump Thermostat 90916-03090 10.61 Thermostat gasket (water inlet housing) 16325-63011 included w/ pump Radiator Cap sub assy. 16401-72090 9.68 Quantity - 3 : - Air Filter Element 17801-03010 11.71/35.13 Quantity - 4 : - Spark Plug 90919-01178-83 6.12/24.48 Alternator Brush Holder Assembly 27370-35060 11.87 V-Belt: Alternator and Cooling Compressor 99365-71110-78 15.89 V-Belt: Vane Pump (power steering) 90916-02318-83 5.77 Fuel Filter (with copper sealing rings) 23300-79305 24.74 Quantity 5 : Engine Oil Drain Plug Gaskets 90430-12031 .69/3.45 Quantity 7 : ATM Trans. Drain Plug Gaskets 90430-18008 .82/5.74 Fuel Tank Cap Assy. 77310-12140 10.32 One Gallon Toyota Coolant 00272-ILLAC-01 Total 464.36 * Parts List Notes Every effort has been made to be complete and accurate with the preceding parts list bid request. Please double check the part name and part numbers based upon the vehicle identification number and date of manufacture and advise of any discrepancies. The existing correct Toyota branded V-Belts for the alternator / air conditioner, and power steering are labeled as follows: A/C Belt: ND Denso, 91850-11102, 5PK1110, Toyota 99365-51110-83 Power Steering Belt: Bando 3PK760, 99363-70760-83 CR Also please check that all sealing gaskets necessary for correct installation of the parts listed are included. === I sent this out for bid couple years ago. This was the best price I found and I did my own labor. When Toyota switched to Thailand for oil filter manufacture I changed to Purolator Pure One, but for everything else I use Toyota parts only. Also would up replacing the engine moving control rod, and later the control arms, axles, and ball joints, but the car runs better than new and looks like it may just last forever. Interior and exterior are also in like new condition. "Daniel" <nospampls2002@yahoo.com> wrote in message > When Toyota switched to Thailand for oil filter manufacture I changed > to Purolator Pure One, but for everything else I use Toyota parts > only. Why did you opt out of using the Thailand-made filter? Quality problem? ........and where are the Purolaters made? > Why did you opt out of using the Thailand-made filter? > > Quality problem? > ........and where are the Purolaters made? === There was some question about the Thailand filter by someone who cut one open. Said they looked like junk to him and if not for the Toyota name on the outside he would never have used such a filter. I cut one open and it looked OK to me but for some strange reason I had begun seeing tiny amber colored specs in my engine oil when checking the dipstick level as I do weekly. I ignored them at first, but then began to suspect the filter. Glue perhaps? Just a guess, entirely posible I'm wrong, but seemed to me, the oil should be clean with a full flow filter. Had one older Toyota filter and I don't think there was any problem with it, but it was my last one. I actually did find filters made in Japan, but it was an obsolete number and have to purchase by the case. Had always seen good reports about the Purolator Pure One, so I tried them. I really like the base gasket, easy to install and solid so I've stayed with them. Seems Purolater actually invented the oil filter. They're made in USA. Used to be Purolator also supplied Toyota OEM filters, but that may have changed. Also Toyota may have required some special feature unique to OEM in their specifications. While suspect all that is good maintenance - it far beyond changing the timing belt. Why 3 air filters? Do google search for "toyota timing belt coupon" You'll find them good for $199 for 4cyl models at the dealer which includes the timing belt. Its honored by most dealers regardless of dealers name on it. >> I bought a 93 camry LE with 105,000 miles recently. The previous owner >> of 4 years has [quoted text clipped - 64 lines] > and looks like it may just last forever. Interior and exterior are > also in like new condition. > While suspect all that is good maintenance - it far beyond changing the > timing belt. Why 3 air filters? === Felt I'd received a good price for the larger order from an online vendor. Wanted to have spares on hand. I think I also ordered five oil filters at the same time as well as extra drain plug gaskets. On Mar 26, 9:47 pm, rtde...@gmail.com wrote: > I bought a 93 camry LE with 105,000 miles recently. The previous owner > of 4 years has [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > Thanks, > Ron It's a blessing that the respondents here are not dentists. Every routine procedure would call for 28 new crowns. :-) When I replaced my timing belt, I replaced the generator and power steering belts as well since they were as old and had to be removed. Everything else I left in peace, and thus far I have no regrets. The odds of replacing two dozen seals, gaskets, pumps, &c without botching something are slim. H.K. > The odds of replacing two dozen seals, gaskets, pumps, &c > without botching something are slim. == Hello Herbert, Everyone's entitled to their own opinion. You do what makes you comfortable. I've heard of people getting 120,000 miles out of the timing belt, and some who simply never changed the timing belt for the duration of their ownership Seems you changed only the belts: timing, alternator (not generator) and power steering. My impetus came from a mechanic in Texas who charged around $1,500 including the timing belt, water pump, idlers, valve cover gasket and grommets. Perhaps their heat or long stretches of empty highway influences his practice. Seemed to me he's insuring no callbacks until the next service interval. It is also recommended to change spark plugs when the timing belt is due, but there too, I've heard of folks who have never changed the spark plugs and not had any problems. When I removed my ND platinum plugs at 60K the gap was still fine. Of course I replaced them anyway according to the factory recommendation. Perhaps servicing the car is a bit of a hobby for me, and the four cylinder is not really difficult to work on as you acquire necessary tools and techniques. I love rolling down the road knowing everything is perfect because I've personally certified it, from the oil pump cover gasket to the ball joints. I know the wheels are torqued in multiple passes and tire pressure to within a fifth of a pound is accurate which is reassuring on those rare instances where the speed rises over one hundred ten mph. I want to be able to regularly push the engine to redline and still have it idle smoothly and so forth. If I put in the effort to perfect the running condition of the car I expect to be able to push it to its limits or just run in the maximum torque band from 3 - 4K rpm without worry. The Toyota philosophy is to favor reliability in engine design and actually they are quite durable. So, like new perfection is my goal. For the individual who only wants the car to move from one place to another with minimum expense their maintenance priorities are different. That's perfectly fine. > == > Hello Herbert, [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > to another with minimum expense their maintenance priorities are > different. That's perfectly fine. Daniel, if I lived in Texas no one would touch my car but you (compliment), and I'd take notes as you worked. But Ron wrote, "I'm a complete novice when it comes to cars", and you no doubt discouraged him. Do you really believe that a complete novice should undertake $1500 worth of work as an introductory student exercise? Peace, Gordon P.S. How do you align your wheels? I'd love to align my own. |
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