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Just be sure you like the ride qualities of Monroe.
Prior owner installed Sensatrac struts and I had them replaced with
Toyota struts because I did not like the ride harshness.
Springs are checked by ride height measurement.
Factory service manual shows figures and procedure. All you need is
level ground and a tape measure.
http://oregonstate.edu/~tongt/camry/index.html
The "boat like swaying" is controlled by the stabilizer bar and
bushings aka "anti sway bar" - bushings are inexpensive, easily
replaced and not included with "quick struts."
Strut mounts were an issue with later model years.
I changed them when changing struts on the '94 but it made zero
difference.
There is no extra labor when the struts are out, so it's only parts
cost.
If you like a firmer ride I found with Monroe, maybe you like the
certain jolt at a bridge transition that used to bother me every
morning as some kind of acceptable trade off.
I am exceptionally sensitive to every aspect of performance though,
and insist that all components be Toyota - except the oil filter where
I use Pulolator Pure One after they shifted the manufacturing site and
changed from the YZZA2 designation.
All of the other Toyota parts I've found to be excellent. Changed the
high mounted center brake lamp yesterday. The quality of the design,
wiring attachment, hinged reflector and so forth - amazing in its
attention to detail and durability of design. It's like every tiny
aspect has been thoroughly considered, and I feel this applies to
strut damping also. The stock units are nitrogen charged and designed
to work exactly with your model. Just my opinion. Your choice.
To continue, I've found the stock suspension setup very stable at very
high speed plus stable in cornering, though cornering ability is also
influenced considerably by tire selection, tire condition and
inflation pressures.
It should be noted with reference to the high speed stability that I
also replaced the front axles, ball joints and control arms around
150,000 miles. One thing led to another. I replaced the axles for
incipient boot cracking on one side and grease seepage from the band
clamp on the other side. Then saw the cracking in the rear control arm
busing, then spotted some feathering at the outside tread edge and
found the slight ball joint play on one side and replaced both.
Learning to do your own labor helps keep the price reasonable.
Car operates  and looks as new.