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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / March 20081998 problems starting
i have a 1998 with 252k miles on it. new o2 sensor recently after the check engine light went on, other than that no new work. my problem is that sometimes when starting the car cold (sitting for 5+ hours) it won't settle on the high idle to warm up. i'll crank it and it'll start, but instead of settling at 2k rpm it'll go straight down to about 600 (or even putter out and stop) unless i give it some gas while it warms up. once it's warmed up it runs fine. this problem occurred before and after the o2 sensor was replaced so i don't think it has anything to do with that. any suggestions? thanks in advance. -c Classic Idle Air Control Valve issue. Give your Toyota dealer $400, he'll replace it. >i have a 1998 with 252k miles on it. new o2 sensor recently after the check >engine light went on, other than that no new work. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > thanks in advance. > -c thanks camryman something i can do myself possibly? -c > Classic Idle Air Control Valve issue. Give your Toyota dealer $400, he'll > replace it. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >> thanks in advance. >> -c I've never tried it, so I honestly couldn't say. Even if you do it yourself, the part will run $222 or so, maybe lower on the net. > thanks camryman > something i can do myself possibly? [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] >>> thanks in advance. >>> -c Do a google on "IAC cleaning". You can clean this valve reasonably easy if mechanically inclined. Now, Toyota used to give out free IAC valves but charge an arm and a leg to install. Not sure if they'll honor yours. The IAC valve actually spans many model years, see the following article. I guess Honda owners never come across bad gasoline. So it must be a design defect: http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?did=972&scid=10 > I've never tried it, so I honestly couldn't say. Even if you do it > yourself, the part will run $222 or so, maybe lower on the net. > Classic Idle Air Control Valve issue. Give your Toyota dealer $400, he'll > replace it. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > - Show quoted text - give the rip off dealer 400 plus tax and he might fix it, or might not, since I dont believe 2000 rpm cold is smart or safe. > i have a 1998 with 252k miles on it. new o2 sensor recently after the check > engine light went on, other than that no new work. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > thanks in advance. > -c My 91 never stayed at 2000 cold, and I know its not good to high idle or run a car at 2000 cold in the winter, mine always dropped to ran about 800- 900 cold. if it runs and doesnt stall I would leave it > i have a 1998 with 252k miles on it. new o2 sensor recently after the check > engine light went on, other than that no new work. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > thanks in advance. > -c I think everyone misses the point, its should not Cold idle at 2000 thats when the oil filter can bypass, what car cold idles at 2000, none I have ever seen. The new Toy engines after 1997 were designed to idle high. Not sure if the latest still do. This allows the engine to reach operating temp faster (near 2000 rpms), so I can only attribute this to poor Toyota engineering because nobody else seems to need it. > I think everyone misses the point, its should not Cold idle at 2000 > thats when the oil filter can bypass, what car cold idles at 2000, > none I have ever seen. On Mar 8, 10:51 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: > The new Toy engines after 1997 were designed to idle high. Not sure if > the latest still do. This allows the engine to reach operating temp [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Isnt there a high risk at say -20f to open the oil filter bypass with old thick oil , then you pump around the crap? I'd agree here. Maybe that's why Toyota engines sludge up more often! In 2004 they lowered the oil change interval from 7500 miles down to 5000 miles. But that's the silly shortcut Toyota decided to take. I don't know of any other manufacturers' engine that needs nearly 2000 RPM to *warm up faster*. Most do fine with 1000-1200 RPM. > Isnt there a high risk at say -20f to open the oil filter bypass with > old thick oil , then you pump around the crap? On Mar 12, 11:29 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: > I'd agree here. Maybe that's why Toyota engines sludge up more often! > In 2004 they lowered the oil change interval from 7500 miles down to [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > - Show quoted text - Going to 7500 was dumb and for marketing, as nothing in the motor has changed. Its all in how you drive, my mom would trash oil in 2000m by never letting the motor heat up by driving 5 min to the store, I drive it and after 5000m the oil looks better than at 2000 when she drove it. 2000 rpm on cold oil is DUMB.Toyota has made mistakes by trying to sell the most cars, too quickly, with poor quality in many areas. They willl recover.. the only thing clean looking oil means is the oil is not cleaning the engne like it should. better for the oil to look a little dirty . > the only thing clean looking oil means is the oil is not cleaning the > engne like it should. better for the oil to look a little dirty . Thats the dumbest thing ive heard. Yes, I was thinking the same thing. Oil as a cleaning agent....that's a new one. On Mar 16, 6:59 pm, davefromkentu...@webtv.net (Dave Dave) wrote: > the only thing clean looking oil means is the oil is not cleaning the > engne like it should. better for the oil to look a little dirty . Thats the dumbest thing ive heard. > the only thing clean looking oil means is the oil is not cleaning the > engne like it should. better for the oil to look a little dirty . This is encouraging to me - my engine must be super clean. :-) just plain dave So if you drive the 2007 BMW Hydrogen-7, using only liquid hydrogen in the modified gasoline engine instead of petro gas, would the oil look dirty? > the only thing clean looking oil means is the oil is not cleaning the > engne like it should. better for the oil to look a little dirty . On Mar 17, 8:21 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote: > So if you drive the 2007 BMW Hydrogen-7, using only liquid hydrogen in > the modified gasoline engine instead of petro gas, would the oil look [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > - Show quoted text - With Propane oil looks alot cleaner and lasts longer , it doesnt have the by products that ruin oil but hurts the upper end as its a dry fuel. With hydrogen I bet it will be a bad issue, the byproduct is water, so if you drive less than maybe 30 minutes a day you wont ever get rid of the water you enter from cilinder blowby. With short trips of 5 -10 minutes in winter I bet you could ruin a motor or its oil fast. Who knows, nobody wants to address the issue. It would be interesting, could someone who drives only 2 miles to the store every day, not enough to fully heat the motor ever, in winter at -20f their oil turn to ICE by morning! Gas byproducts burn out at lower temps than is needed to remove water. |
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