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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / March 20082000 Camry 4 cyl engine check light code P0300
HELP!!! 2000 Camry, 4cyl, F5SV84 engine code, 190K miles, made in Japan. Originally needed valve seals, decided on complete head job at very little more cost. Local shop sent head to machine shop, put engine back together, 200/300 miles later receive engine check light P0300 - random misfire. New OEM plugs and OEM wires, another 300 miles, code P0300 again. The head was removed again and rechecked by machine shop and replaced (at no additional cost to me) 300 more miles code P0300 again. Complete fuel induction service, gas dry in 2 tanks of gas, 700 miles P0300 again. Another set of plugs and wires, P0300 again. I am all P0300'd out.... Any suggestions beyond giving up? Check that ground wires are properly connected. Recheck wiring connectors. What's engine' vacuum like? Check the ignition coils and make sure they are good. Do a leak down test for each of the cylinders. A leaking cylinder will do it (but the cylinder head's was changed again!). A mechanically inclined friend and a $29.99 tool from Harbor Freight and an available air compressor will help if you want to attempt a leakdown test. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94190 > HELP!!! > 2000 Camry, 4cyl, F5SV84 engine code, 190K miles, made in Japan. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > P0300 again. Another set of plugs and wires, P0300 again. I am all > P0300'd out.... Any suggestions beyond giving up? There was a compression test done with no problems found. The coils were swapped out and problem was same. I never asked about a vacuum test. Is there a tool I could do it myself and where do I check? THANKS! > Check that ground wires are properly connected. Recheck wiring > connectors. What's engine' vacuum like? Check the ignition coils and [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >>P0300 again. Another set of plugs and wires, P0300 again. I am all >>P0300'd out.... Any suggestions beyond giving up? Free loan-a-tool program from AutoZone: http://www.autozone.com/in_our_stores/loan_a_tool/valvetrain_repair/vacuum_pump.htm Haynes manual would tell you how to read the vacuum gauge. Basically you're looking for steady reading between 17-22 in/Hg and no needle movements. Hope the problem is with vacuum leak (vac hoses, gaskets) because then it's easier to track, otherwise you'll have to check the EGR system, knock sensor, MAP, valve timing/clearance issues the usual suspects. It should be something really simple during replacement. So look at the things the mechanic touched while taking off and putting on the cylinder head first. > There was a compression test done with no problems found. The coils were > swapped out and problem was same. I never asked about a vacuum test. Is [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > >>P0300 again. Another set of plugs and wires, P0300 again. I am all > >>P0300'd out.... Any suggestions beyond giving up? Regarding MityVac and vacuum leak side of things: If you have the MityVac free loaner, might want to check the operation of EGR valve as well. Also, check the routing of the vacuum hoses to the vacuum modulator and EGR valve. Make sure the right ports on the throttle body is connected to the right ports on the modulator and EGR valve. When does the miss happen? Accelerating or idle? Does the engine feel sluggish? (fuel delivery, timing) Does the engine idle too fast or too slow/stall? (vacuum leak/EGR) Check the 5SFE here, but Haynes manual of your year should do better: http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/eb/25/0900823d8013eb25/repai rInfoPages.htm Again, suspect somehting simple during replacement, assuming a good cylinder head. Good luck. > There was a compression test done with no problems found. The coils were > swapped out and problem was same. I never asked about a vacuum test. Is > there a tool I could do it myself and where do I check? THANKS! I used a vacuum tester and on the intake manifold it reads 14 at idle. The instructions say it should read about 20. I verified all vacuum hoses follow diagram for vacuum modulator and EGR valve. It idles fine and has never stalled. It feels like it runs fine when idling and accelerating, it is only when I am trying to maintain speed when it starts choking and surging. Engine does not have as much power, but not a big difference noticed. My gas mileage went from 38mpg to 34mpg after this original head work was done too. I have an appointment tomorrow at the shop and he is going to verify the intake cam and exhaust cam are lined up for correct timing. I am assuming that the car will still run (at least run like it is) if the cams were put back together one tooth off. > Regarding MityVac and vacuum leak side of things: > [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >>swapped out and problem was same. I never asked about a vacuum test. Is >>there a tool I could do it myself and where do I check? THANKS! Yeah, 14" is low. So ECU thinks you're high altitude therefore inject less fuel (lean mixture) and you start random miss. Now that makes sense. You're about Denver or higher. (On a side note, I'm glad I have NGK Iridium plugs.) Many 4cyls t-belts stretch and skip a tooth but won't set codes. Just sluggish and no power is all. But I hope it's just timing anyway, because during highway cruising if EGR is open it's least of your problems (usually they don't and engines knock). If there are no leaks and a quick check on timing is fine then it's the valvetrain. Hindsight is always 20/20, it was probably better to just use your original cylinder head for valve stem seals, as I plan to do during the next timing belt job using Fel-Pro seals myself. Who knows if your current cylinder head's cams have been messed with (e.g., racing cams, etc). See what the mechanic says, and see if you can get a warranty replacement and quit messing with this particular cylinder head -- unfortunately from the same rebuilder I guess. Now you have to replace the head gasket too. #$%! I'd use Fel-Pro Multi-Layer Steel (MLS). > I used a vacuum tester and on the intake manifold it reads 14 at idle. > The instructions say it should read about 20. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > assuming that the car will still run (at least run like it is) if the > cams were put back together one tooth off. If it's not too late see if the rebuilder can rebuild YOUR cylinder head and return it to you. > I have an appointment tomorrow at the shop and he is going to verify the > intake cam and exhaust cam are lined up for correct timing. I am > assuming that the car will still run (at least run like it is) if the > cams were put back together one tooth off. I mentioned retarded cam timing vs crank, but right, if the cylinder head reassembly went wrong the two cams may be off (the dots don't line up). (!) > I have an appointment tomorrow at the shop and he is going to verify the > intake cam and exhaust cam are lined up for correct timing. I am > assuming that the car will still run (at least run like it is) if the > cams were put back together one tooth off. |
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