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Car Forum / Toyota / Camry / April 2008

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2000 Camry LE V6 - 109000 miles

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toyodriver - 09 Apr 2008 14:42 GMT
As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
$500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
years 6-8. I've never had a car beyond year 8 before and now see
maintenance/repair costs going toward $3000. Is this normal, is my car
over-maintenanced/repaired, or will costs go down beyond the 100k mile
mark which seems to entail replacing lots of things (fuel injectors,
steering rack, steering pump, charcoal canister, CO sensor, etc.). By
the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
tires, rotation of  tires, etc.
ray - 09 Apr 2008 18:28 GMT
>As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
>$500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
>the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
>tires, rotation of  tires, etc.

I have a 2000 Avalon 125,000 miles which is very similar.  I do oil
changes about 3 to 5K miles, transmission and cooling at 30K and
timing belt and spark plugs at 100K.  This is my understanding of the
required maintenance, not what the Toyota dealer would like to sell
me.  In addition to maintenance I did front brakes at 80K, 3 batteries
and on third set of tires jut recently.  I think all these service
cost about $3000.  Average of $400 a year.  The car still runs
flawlessly.  Could you elaborate what you have done and what your
costs are?
ACAR - 09 Apr 2008 18:46 GMT
(fuel injectors, steering rack, steering pump, charcoal canister,

I've got a couple of cars over 200,000 miles and neither of them have
had the work you describe above. I replaced the O2 sensors (not CO
sensors) at about 175,000 miles in both cars. My 1998 Sienna, with
210,000 miles, costs me about half your figure for annual repairs,
maintenance and upkeep.

What part of New York do you live in?
toyodriver - 09 Apr 2008 18:57 GMT
I am not a car guru and do no work on the car myself nor do I know
anyone that can. I take it in to the dealer (they've physically the
closest shop I can get to) for all recommended servicing and whatever
else pops up and yes, something usually pops up. Still I've gone along
with it since knowing the car will start when I turn the ignition
wherever I am is most important to me, so I chalk that up to
preventative maintenance and not knowing a thing about cars except
what I've learned by paying for various services. Most recent expenses
$800 for routine service internal, fuel injector service, new valve
gasket covers (and I forget what else), $200 for brakes, $1100 for
steering rack and pump, and $400 for one new fuel injector. Live in
northern NJ. I guess I need to marry a mechanic!
johngdole@hotmail.com - 10 Apr 2008 05:34 GMT
If you had to change injector (just one for $400!) and $1100 steering
rack/pump at 109K miles then it's either severe service driving or
your Camry is one of the more problematic ones.

There are major services once in a while. For example, a complete
timing belt job that includes water pump, oil seals and idlers
typically runs $600-800 dealer (for about $200 of parts online) and
comes every 5yr/60K miles or 6yr/90K miles. $50 Brake pads every
60-90K miles depending on driving style. Coolant hoses (radiator,
heater, bypass, ~$60) should be done around 100K miles preventatively
(although they'll last longer, like the timing belt). And the
alternator brushes ($20 assembly) wear out around 120-150K miles, etc
etc.

I don't know what your $800 includes, but if only for oil coolant and
ATF changes plus tire rotation plus "inspect" a lot of items then IMO
it's way too high even at the dealer. That said, dealer prices are
always high because they have overhead costs. Independent mechanics'
prices are lower, but finding good ones isn't easy.

But sounds like your dealer is trying to move you into a new
car? ;) ;)

> I am not a car guru and do no work on the car myself nor do I know
> anyone that can. I take it in to the dealer (they've physically the
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> steering rack and pump, and $400 for one new fuel injector. Live in
> northern NJ. I guess I need to marry a mechanic!
toyodriver - 11 Apr 2008 15:29 GMT
On Apr 10, 12:34 am, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> If you had to change injector (just one for $400!) and $1100 steering
> rack/pump at 109K miles then it's either severe service driving or
> your Camry is one of the more problematic ones.

Just taking into account this part of your response, I may have a bad
Camrry. It was one of the first ones on the line for the 2000 model. I
didn't want to do that but that is the time my former car (Chevy
Beretta) died on me. I didn't want to go American made again, so went
with the Camry. Despite the high maintenance costs (for me anyway), I
love my car. I had never heard of anyone changing a steering rack and
pump at around 100k so I did take the car to a few mechanics and
another dealer, not all put it up on a lift but those that did agreed
that it did indeed need to be replaced (one took me under the car and
showed me the leaks). I must say the steering is now incredible! Feels
like new as it should with a new steering rack but I don't know what
else is going to go and not sure I want to be the owner to find it
out.

As you suggested, I started looking into extended warranties. Hadn't
thought of them. They would probably have worked out well for me if
they truly pay for parts, labor, and a rental car. Is buying an
extended warranty from the dealer the best option, or buying from an
independent service offered on the web? I see a few of these but not
sure if they are valid when you actually take your car in to an
independente mechanic.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 12 Apr 2008 04:46 GMT
Yeah, I know what you mean about some of the earlier products out of
Detroit. That's why all three are under new management and one of them
even guarded by a three-headed dog (Cerberos) that allows the spirit
of the dead to enter and none to exit!

I think people are generally right that extended warranties are
worthless for most, unless one plan can be found that closely matches
the original "bumper-to-bumper" warranty at a reasonable cost.

I'm not doubting your Camry needs a pump and a rack (rare), but that's
why I flush my power steering system with each transmission strainer
change. :) :)

> On Apr 10, 12:34 am, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
> sure if they are valid when you actually take your car in to an
> independente mechanic.
Sharx35 - 12 Apr 2008 06:24 GMT
> Yeah, I know what you mean about some of the earlier products out of
> Detroit. That's why all three are under new management and one of them
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> why I flush my power steering system with each transmission strainer
> change. :) :)

What he said.

>> On Apr 10, 12:34 am, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>> sure if they are valid when you actually take your car in to an
>> independente mechanic.
ACAR - 10 Apr 2008 12:57 GMT
> I am not a car guru and do no work on the car myself nor do I know
> anyone that can. I take it in to the dealer (they've physically the
> closest shop I can get to) for all recommended servicing and whatever
> else pops up and yes, something usually pops up.

You are paying dearly for convenience. Time to do something else.

-Buy a new car with an extended warranty (you should shop online for
manufacturer's warranty at a discount before visiting your local
dealer).

-Buy a Certified Used car with an extended warranty.

-Find an independent mechanic with a decent reputation (not a boat
owner). [If you are successful finding said mechanic, you should be
able to leap tall buildings in a single bound!]

-Work the numbers (maybe with a banker) to see if leasing a car would
work out cheaper for you.

Good luck.
Sharx35 - 11 Apr 2008 06:08 GMT
>> I am not a car guru and do no work on the car myself nor do I know
>> anyone that can. I take it in to the dealer (they've physically the
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
>
> Good luck.

Extended warranties for most Camrys are for suckers. Best to simply have an
emergency fund, earning money for YOU, to pay for the eventual repairs. Rest
assured, warranty companies make money for THEMSELVES, at YOUR expense.
ACAR - 15 Apr 2008 12:52 GMT
> >> I am not a car guru and do no work on the car myself nor do I know
> >> anyone that can. I take it in to the dealer (they've physically the
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
> emergency fund, earning money for YOU, to pay for the eventual repairs. Rest
> assured, warranty companies make money for THEMSELVES, at YOUR expense.

Please re-read the first post. The OP is being taken over the coals by
his local dealer. That's where he goes for service, no options. An
extended warranty protects the buyer from an unscrupulous dealer. The
extended warranty costs FAR less than the OP has paid for service thus
far.

For folks in other situations, yeah, an extended warranty for cars
like the Camry and Accord are silly.
ransley - 16 Apr 2008 16:31 GMT
> > "ACAR" <dimndsonmywnds...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 36 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Everyone has options, his neighbors have cars and someone has found a
good mechanic, Extended warranties I find are bs , my coil, broken
spring, leaking ac were not covered last week, I was even charged 300
for them to look over the car after paying about 1000 for a warranty.
Look close at what is not covered in a warranty. But even maintenance
items I just about always get done alot cheaper at my local mechanic,
dealers have lead ins like on timing belts, but then the extras are
based at up to 200 an hour.
ransley - 12 Apr 2008 22:20 GMT
> As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
> $500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
> tires, rotation of  tires, etc.

Some of those items dont sound right, if you have a dealer do the work
what do you expect, they have to maintain those nice shops and pay for
the free coffee and dounuts I have never seen one that isnt double the
price or doing whats  only necessary compared to a independant
mechanic. I just had a car in and they wanted to replace the front
brakes, engine oil and plugs, which I just did a month ago, oil had
100 miles on it. For most dealers work can be done at up to 75% less
somewhere else.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 13 Apr 2008 04:14 GMT
Dealer has to make money selling accessories, extra service, etc. And
that's how service writers take a cut of the profit and collect money
to put food on the table and buy Christmas presents. If owners walk in
without a clue then all the dealers see are big dollar signs walking
through the door.

For example, a Mitsuboshi timing belt costs ~$13 on rockauto.com, it
costs about 3x at the dealer counter. Always watch your money yourself
I guess.

> Some of those items dont sound right, if you have a dealer do the work
> what do you expect, they have to maintain those nice shops and pay for
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> 100 miles on it. For most dealers work can be done at up to 75% less
> somewhere else.
ransley - 13 Apr 2008 13:37 GMT
On Apr 12, 10:14 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Dealer has to make money selling accessories, extra service, etc. And
> that's how service writers take a cut of the profit and collect money
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well I have more than a clue everytime I go to a dealer for warranty
work or CALL for prices, the only time a dealer should be used is for
warranty work, and  just about always I get unessary work bid for and
im told I need it, when I dont. I dont mean toy dealers I mean all of
them, there isnt most any work I cant get done 25-75% cheaper
somewhere else. And it adds up fast. I had a gm dealer want 1100 for
brakes, we got it done for 200, its just one of the many things ive
seen over the years. OP should find a independant mechanic that
charges 60 an hr, not the 1-400 an hr dealers actualy get. Not having
a clue, as most dont, and having someone seeing dollar signs, instead
of doing what is necessary, is crooked. My local independants are in
business for life here because their reputation for being honest was
built on honesty. I will bet op was overcharged and unessary work
done.
ray - 13 Apr 2008 14:40 GMT
>Well I have more than a clue everytime I go to a dealer for warranty
>work or CALL for prices, the only time a dealer should be used is for
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
>built on honesty. I will bet op was overcharged and unessary work
>done.

While I agree that OP is probably being oversold on maintenance work,
I would disagree that the independent service people are always
cheaper.  The Toyota dealer was cheaper on spark plug replacement,
they were the least expensive on timing belt replacement.  I did shop
around and got 6 quotes.
ransley - 13 Apr 2008 15:39 GMT
> On Sun, 13 Apr 2008 05:37:10 -0700 (PDT), ransley
>
[quoted text clipped - 22 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -
Certain work like timing belts dealer often have deals on, OP should
talk to neighbors with old cars to find a reputable local mechanic.
bungalow_steve@yahoo.com - 17 Apr 2008 17:07 GMT
> As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
> $500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
> tires, rotation of  tires, etc.

The V6 is an expensive car to maintain, the 4 cyl is a much better
choice, I think if you had the extended warrenty they probably would
not of done most of the work you described.
Sharx35 - 20 Apr 2008 04:54 GMT
On Apr 9, 9:42 am, toyodriver <the...@historyonline.net> wrote:
> As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
> $500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
> tires, rotation of tires, etc.

The V6 is an expensive car to maintain, the 4 cyl is a much better
choice, I think if you had the extended warrenty they probably would
not of done most of the work you described.

For US, the 6 cyl. (99 Camry) was  A MUCH BETTER CHOICE. I test drove both.
The 99 6 cyl. Camry is every bit as good as an entry level Lexus. It has
far, far better suspension that the 4 cyl. had  (in 1999, for sure). If you
can't afford the few extra cents in gasoline for the 6 cyl., you should take
the bus. The 6 cyl., in 1999, is a rocket on wheels compared to the
relatively sluggish 4 cyl. Note, SINCE then, Toyota has upgraded their 4
cyl. Camry engine..as they have the 6 cylinder. Don't arbitrarily dis the 6
cyl. without FIRST trying it out.
SMS - 21 Apr 2008 06:07 GMT
> As with all new cars, I noticed my maintenance/repair costs jump from
> $500 or less in years 1-2 to $1k in years 3-5, and then $1500-2000 in
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> the way, these are all inclusive costs including oil change, brakes,
> tires, rotation of  tires, etc.

We have a 1996 Camry with 120,000 miles on it. It's very unusual to have
some of those repairs that you've had to have, i.e. the steering rack,
charcoal canister, and CO sensor.

Tire rotation is free at most tire stores (including Costco which almost
always has the best out-the-door pricing on tires).

Stay away from the dealer (and Jiffy Lube) for oil changes and brakes
(unless the dealer has a special). Find an independent shop that will
use Toyota parts (filters, brake pads, etc.) rather than low-quality
parts that the mass-market retailers like Jiffy Lube, Midas, etc., use.

The most expensive repair I've had is the struts and shocks at about
115,000 miles. Could have gone longer, but one strut mount had to be
replaced (a common problem on this generation of Camry) so I had both
struts, both mounts, and both shocks replaced and it was around $800.
The other problem has been the IAC valve (idle air control valve) which
is another common Camry problem, but an honest mechanic just cleans it
for $20, while a dealer will charge $400 to replace it.

The V6 is more problematic than an I4, and in most parts of the country
is unnecessary as the I4 on the Camry has always been sufficiently
powerful even for steep hills (though maybe not for extensive mountain
driving).
 
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