1988 LandCruiser infromation sought, please!

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RTW918 - 10 Dec 2003 01:03 GMT

Just purchased a 1988 Toyota LandCruiser with 150K miles on it. An automatic
trans and looks to have had very good care and servicing. Everything is factory
and nothing is Mickey Moused. No black, white or blue smoke. Runs out nicely, a
bit "truck-like," but then it's a truck. Anyone ever had one of these and can
give me some estimates as to what I can expect in terms of length of life on
this thing, motor and trans, and what items that one would suggest that I pay
attention to the most. The owner moved out of the country and sold it to me for
about 2 grand. I just couldn't pass it up, as I've always wanted a cruiser. So
far I'm enjoying it, and i have to assume that this thing is going to eat a bit
of gas. I think that since so much of it is original, that I should focus my
efforts on replacing the thermostat, water pump, heater hoses, and fan clutch
which seems weak. It never over heats and stays very cool during any given
drive, but likes to start to creep up into the 1/2-3/4 way range (out of red)
when at idle after driving. I certainly don't want to ever subject it to the
possibility of an over heat condition and possibly blow a head gasket. I'm
thinking that I need to adjust the valves too. Is this done while the car is
actually running, or is the adjustment done at operating temperature with motor
off. Sure would appreciate anyone's help and advice on where and how to proceed
with this new vehicle. It seems to be a great truck! and I'm looking forward to
whatever life is left in it. Oh, I've also been thinking about switching to
pure synthetic motor oil (yes, all 8.2 quarts), is this advisable with this
kind of mileage on the clock, or am I asking for trouble? I'm also using Napa
oil filters at the moment and have drained the oil and installed Castrol HD
30wt. monograde oil for right now. Also am using Bosch Platinum plugs. Thanks
again.

Sincerely,

Jay N. Beechcraft

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Wolfgang - 10 Dec 2003 01:26 GMT

Why 30w oil? If it was a '68 maybe but I'd go with 20w40 with that mileage
and avoid the synthetic (IMHO it will run thru it like water - and leak!).
I've never had a Toyota that ran well on "Botched" Plugs - much prefer
NGK/Nipponenso or even Champion. Prefer OEM Filters but always buy them on
sale - not sure how NAPA are rated on filtering.

> Just purchased a 1988 Toyota LandCruiser with 150K miles on it. An automatic
> trans and looks to have had very good care and servicing. Everything is factory
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> Jay N. Beechcraft

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Bruce L. Bergman - 12 Dec 2003 08:23 GMT

>Just purchased a 1988 Toyota LandCruiser with 150K miles on it. An automatic
>trans and looks to have had very good care and servicing. Everything is factory
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>this thing, motor and trans, and what items that one would suggest that I pay
>attention to the most.

I've had one since new, and it does ride rough - they use that
chassis for light trucks in Japan. And it rides a bit rougher if you
use Light Truck tires - but my last set of LT235/75R15 Bridgestones
have 70,000 miles and tread left, they need replacing soon only
because of age checking.

The expected life of an F motor is kind of like "How many licks can
you get from a Tootsie Pop?" If you take care of it, 300,000+ is very
possible. Transmissions I would guess at 150,000 to 200,000 - mine
has 133,000 and still going strong - it's an Aisin-Warner truck
transmission.

>The owner moved out of the country and sold it to me for
>about 2 grand. I just couldn't pass it up, as I've always wanted a cruiser.

Gloat. You do realize you stole that car with a checkbook, dontcha?
;-)

> So far I'm enjoying it, and i have to assume that this thing is going to eat a bit
>of gas.

I get about 16 to 18 MPG Highway (but I haven't been driving much
since they went to oxygenated fuels - I have a Company Truck), so it
isn't bad for three tons. You keep a compact car around for
high-gas-mileage daily commuting and save the Cruiser for road trips
and sloppy weather.

> I think that since so much of it is original, that I should focus my
>efforts on replacing the thermostat, water pump, heater hoses, and fan clutch
>which seems weak. It never over heats and stays very cool during any given
>drive, but likes to start to creep up into the 1/2-3/4 way range (out of red)
>when at idle after driving. I certainly don't want to ever subject it to the
>possibility of an over heat condition and possibly blow a head gasket.

Don't worry about the fan clutch too much, it seems weak untill the
first time you get the radiator really hot and the clutch goes into
full lock - and then you're madly looking around for the F-18 that
just landed on your roof... That fan is DAMNED LOUD when the clutch
goes to full lockup at high revs.

I accidentally left it idling in gear (parking brake set) in Death
Valley heat for 45 minutes, Air on, with no ill effects. (We were a
little busy dealing with treating an endurance runner in heat stroke
at the time...)

> I'm thinking that I need to adjust the valves too. Is this done while the car is
>actually running, or is the adjustment done at operating temperature with motor
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>30wt. monograde oil for right now. Also am using Bosch Platinum plugs. Thanks
>again.

I've been running Mobil1 5W30 since new, and no problems (except for
that big dent in my wallet after every change). You might develop
leaky oil seals if you switch now at that mileage, but it's a small
price to pay for the added protection. And it's normal for the oil
pan bolts to back off and leak, just crawl underneath and snug it up
once a year.

(Hey Rick, would getting drilled bolts and lacing them with Safety
Wire help? ;-)

And go for stock ND sparkplugs and ignition components, Toyotas are
a little finicky.

Find a good local dealer, or get acquainted with Specter Offroad
(www.sor.com) or Northwest Offroad for mail-order, since some of the
parts you'll need regularly are odd ones that are available at the
Dealer Parts Counter or a Specialty Shop Only. Like the fan belts -
the two main ones are the big 6L truck size that nobody stocks. (The
AC Compressor belt is readily available anywhere, but it's the one
belt of the three you can live without - carry a spare set of belts.)

--<< Bruce >>--

Signature

Bruce Bergman, Woodland Hills CA USA.
Return address spam-trapped - Remove the Invalid Python using a Net.

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DaniaBCH - 16 Dec 2003 13:06 GMT

Thanks so much for your thoughts and insight...I guess I'll just settle down
and begin to enjoy the Cruiser! Thanks again!

JB

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triode@erols.com - 29 Aug 2005 16:16 GMT

my '90 ('89) FJ62 Landcruiser was purchased in 1999 with 119,000
miles, now at 135,000--am told engine is good up to 300k..

I use Castrol 20w-50--change oil every 6 months regardless.

items replaced:
new Old Man EMU suspension, new gas tank, new fuel pump, new (all)
hoses, new brake rotors/pads, steering stabilizer, one new brake line
(recently), new Mean Green starter motor, tailgate upper hinges
(rusted out), new spark plug wires, etc.

my truck is very rusty--major deterioration in several areas
(especially the lower rear body panels and bottom ridge of lower rear
tailgate , minor in several other places...but over all it is a rust
bucket.

I bought impulsively..and rust areas had been painted over and were
not noticeable, plus I failed to look underneath at the bottom of the
body...will not disclose how much I paid as I am embarrassed to tell
you.

BUT, the truck has made 2 round trips from DC to Nantcuket and has
performed flawlessly.

It is a bit of a gas hog......:-(

For some crazy reason I love my truck and its reverse snobbery
appeals to me.

Hank in Reston VA

>Just purchased a 1988 Toyota LandCruiser with 150K miles on it. An automatic
>trans and looks to have had very good care and servicing. Everything is factory
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
>Jay N. Beechcraft

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