Word of caution: #3 may appear to have good compression due to water in the
cylinder occupying space that would normally be filled by compressible air.
Basically, the water could be reducing the displacement in that cylinder.
Don't run the engine if there's liquid water in a cylinder, you can do
serious damage.

You also have to worry about the fact that you got water in your crankcase.
That means pulling the oil pan. It also means that there's probably
emulsified water and oil in your engine's oil galleys. I'd be concerned
about getting all gunk that out. A power flush would be best, but I don't
think that's something you can DIY. Perhaps someone else has some better
recommendations on this. But I would consider removing the oil filter and
blowing compressed air through the engine's oil inlet port (the nipple the
filter threads onto). That should help blow out the galleys. But even that
will probably not clean it all out. So after you've finished getting the
engine back together, you might want to consider putting the oil pan on with
a temporary gasket, filling the crankcase with oil, *priming* the system
(that's important!), running the engine a short while, then pulling the oil
pan again to get out any remaining gunk.

As for the root cause, it may not simply be a blown gasket. It's very
possible that the water passages in the head have corroded to the point that
they have bridged into the cylinder dome. This is not as bad as it sounds. A
reputable machine shop can grind out the corrosion, fill in the holds by
welding, and then re-surface the head. When I pulled my head ('89 22RE),
there was some corrosion that had gotten very close to the cylinder domes.
My machine shop did a great repair for me.

Frankly, I don't remember everything I did to get the manifold off. I do
recall that it was tricky in that it required some contosionist positions
from the top and the bottom of the engine compartment. Be sure you have a
good assortment of socket extensions, flex joints, and combination wrenches.
You should also have flare nut wrenches. Probably the worst was getting to
the air injection manifold that runs behind the back of the head (I don't
know if your engine has this). Of course, I pulled my manifolds completely
to R&R all the gaskets and soft parts, so my job was a bit more involved.

The fuel pump is inside the tank; there is an electrical connector at the
access port on the top of the tank. But you really don't need to disconnect
that. If the vehicle has been sitting for a day or so without running, there
probably won't be much--if any--pressure remaining it the fuel lines. What
you definitely do need to do is disconnect the battery. I recommend actually
removing the battery altogether from the vehicle. It gives you more room to
work and ensures you don't accidentally short the terminals with any tools
or parts (very bad, especially with open gasoline lines around). When you're
ready to disconnect the fuel supply line from the fuel delivery rail, wrap a
shop rag around the wrench and connection before cracking the banjo fitting.
If there is any residual pressure, it will get soaked up by the rag (you are
wearing safety goggles, right?). Make sure you properly store and dispose of
any gas soaked rags.

Hope this helps.

- Michael

What is the Best Way to remove bolt, having a little trouble getting it
loose.
thanks in advance