Thats better,
theres a few things to try.
1. As you try turning yoru key pull the glass down with your free hand, it
may be stickey (the motors not overly strong)
2. The WINDOW LOCK buttons pressed on the colsole. (Mine next to the up/down
button in centre console between the seats)
3. Fuse somewhere.
4. Have you tried the tailgate key and the buttons?
5. You can pull the trim off (its trickey but can be done to a degree) while
the tailgates up and check for voltage while someone else is turning the key
or pressing the button.

Hope one of those is your issue, if not and theres voltage at the tailgate
expect to fork out some cash very soon.

Scotty

I wonder what DC stands for?     I just wonder?

Is the door absolutely totally shut?  Are you trying both inside switch and
the key out back? m P>SS> Your caps key is stuck too!

Heard ya the first time.... check your caps lock key....it could be stuck.
Then take your truck to your favorite mechanic and get it fixed.

And then he added in the subject line '11993 Toyota 4Runner' - Gee, I
don't think they'll get to that model year in a while...

 First things first:  Posting in all-caps is akin to shouting.
Posting with tons of mipspledded (sic) words and non-capitalized
proper names is almost as bad.  Proofread before hitting "Send".

Now then...

 If the 1993 is one of the years that has the removable roof, there
is an electrical switch under one of the bolt holes that holds the
roof to the car body - on the left (driver's) side under the window,
behind the driver's door IIRC.  And it's an extra-long bolt.

 The switch is activated by a bolt when the roof is installed to
allow the rear window to operate normally - with the roof off, it is
supposed to allow down only, in case you forgot to lower it before
starting to remove the roof.  No up.

 You do not want to put the back window up with the roof off anyway,
the wind can easily break the unsupported rear window glass while
driving at highway speeds.  Do not defeat the switch.

 And the tailgate window motor will not be on a fuse, they draw too
much power.  The common practice for window motors is to use an
automatic reset thermal circuit breaker.  Probably a little
rectangular or round metal can (like an old turn signal flasher)
plugged into one of the fuse blocks, but not always.

 Note that when you are checking the power for the window, they
switch both the (+12V) and (-ground) power leads, reversing the
polarity with the switch to reverse the motor.

 If you hit the switch for the window and get a +12V reading on both
of the motor terminals, the ground half of the circuit is open
somewhere.  Bad switch, bad plug-in wire connection, snapped wire at a
flex point in the door jamb, bad main body ground bolted connection
under the dashboard.

 That should provide you with enough clues to fix it - if not, check
back later.

    --<< Bruce >>--