What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
hummingbird a.s.

Signature
"frito"
Fred Snetzer
'01 FLHT, '97 M2²
TOMKAT
IBA #10549 BS #162
http://users.ipa.net/~frito/
http://eddiekieger.com/
Anyolmouse - 09 Apr 2008 23:54 GMT
| What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
| offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
| gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
| straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
| time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
| hummingbird a.s.
Might want to do some reading first:
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/archive/topic/31211-1.html Does he
know the service history? If it was replaced under a recall there should
be records on it that the local dealer can access.

Signature
Anyolmouse
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someone@some.domain - 10 Apr 2008 02:37 GMT
>What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
>offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
>gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
>straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a long
>time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
>hummingbird a.s.
buy the book
buy the book
buy the book.
then read the book. does it look doable?
yes, then prolly.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 10 Apr 2008 05:47 GMT
Toyota had problems with head gaskets during those years. but a 94 is
way out of the 8 yr recall time limit if any. Even the aluminum 1MZs
replacing the iron block 3VZs have seepage problems later.
Check the 3VZ-FE cylinder head removal procedure on Autozone's free
online repair guide:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/17/95/7f/0900823d8017957f/repai
rInfoPages.htm
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> TOMKAT
> IBA #10549 BS #162http://users.ipa.net/~frito/http://eddiekieger.com/
frito - 10 Apr 2008 16:57 GMT
On Apr 9, 3:28 pm, "frito" wrote:
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed?
Thanks for the links, I looked for an hour or so and couldn't find anything
usefull.
The owner does have a manual, I just haven't got to see it yet. That's
kinda
what I told him, "if you got a namual we can do this".
Thanks

Signature
"frito"
Fred Snetzer
'01 FLHT, '97 M2²
TOMKAT
IBA #10549 BS #162
http://users.ipa.net/~frito/
http://eddiekieger.com/
Handyman - 10 Apr 2008 17:54 GMT
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
[quoted text clipped - 9 lines]
> TOMKAT
> IBA #10549 BS #162http://users.ipa.net/~frito/http://eddiekieger.com/
The level of difficulty isn't bad, just make sure you use brand new
head bolts and have a good set of 6 point metric sockets. They say
you need specialty tools to hold the camshaft and get the timing
pulleys off but I have always just wrapped an old timing belt around
the pulley and held them with a strap wrench. If you plan on chasing
the head bolt holes they are 11mm (yes I said 11mm) You can get the
tap through J & L industrial supply for about $12.00, specialty places
will want and arm and a leg for one. It is important to use new head
bolts because they are torque to yield bolts and are one time use,
follow the torque procedure on the valve cover gasket and the sequence
from the manual. First you go to a specified torque on all bolts,
then go back around and turn each one 90 degrees, then go back around
and turn each one again another 90 degrees while following the
sequence. I just got two sets of Felpro bolts off of Amazon.com for
under $30 per set, you need a set for each head, the dealer wants $10
per bolt. Another suggestion is to use Felpro's dry fit valve cover
gaskets. I had trouble with several other brands leaking and it is a
pain to replace them later so spend a few extra bucks on a good pair
from either Felpro or the dealer. Another note, change the knock
sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 12 Apr 2008 05:30 GMT
Fel-Pro is a dependable name in sealing solutions. They do rebox some
low volume gaskets from Japan for the Japanese imports. For me it's
easier and cheaper to just go all Fel-Pro and rockauto.com. Autozone's
got some good prices on Fel-Pros for the local shoppers too.
Consider picking up a thread restorer kit from Sears $59.99. It's a
pretty versatile SAE/Metric kit. A restorer (or thread chaser) doesn't
cut like a tap and weaken the thread. But it has only M11x1.5 if
that's the one for the 3VZ.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00942275000P?keyword=thread+restorer
> The level of difficulty isn't bad, just make sure you use brand new
> head bolts and have a good set of 6 point metric sockets. They say
[quoted text clipped - 17 lines]
> sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
> go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.
Handyman - 13 Apr 2008 07:10 GMT
On Apr 11, 9:30 pm, johngd...@hotmail.com wrote:
> Fel-Pro is a dependable name in sealing solutions. They do rebox some
> low volume gaskets from Japan for the Japanese imports. For me it's
[quoted text clipped - 29 lines]
> > sensor wire, they are under $15 from the dealer and will almost always
> > go bad after you have moved them during the head removal.
The tap for chasing the head bolt threads is 11mm x 1.25mm, not the
standard 11mm x 1.5 mm. That is why you won't find one in an
automotive store hardware store.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 14 Apr 2008 02:34 GMT
Yeah, the otherwise good value Sears kit doesn't have the 1.25mm. But
for the wimpy 1MZ aluminum engine that grew out of the 3VZ iron block
1.5mm would work.
> The tap for chasing the head bolt threads is 11mm x 1.25mm, not the
> standard 11mm x 1.5 mm. That is why you won't find one in an
> automotive store hardware store.
Joseph Wind - 12 Apr 2008 23:55 GMT
I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
the timing belt and water pump, while you have it open. The second time I
used a sandwich type metal gasket. Typically the leak occurs at the back of
the head on the drivers side closest to the firewall. I was told by a guy
who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.
> What is the level of difficulty? Are there special tools needed? I've
> offered to help out a friend with a '94 V-6 with a suspected blown head
> gasket. I've never tackled a V-6 Toy. I've built several small block and
> straight six Chevy's, a couple of OHC 4 cylinder Fords and even a 22r a
> long time ago. Just wondering if my alligator mouth has overloaded my
> hummingbird a.s.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 13 Apr 2008 04:19 GMT
The "sandwich" time is the Multi-Layer Steel I assume. Hard to tell
from the pictures, but Fel-Pro's "PT" so I didn't think it was MLS.
MLS has much better vertical and horizontal sealing capabilities than
standard one-layer gaskets.
> I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
> the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
> gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.
johngdole@hotmail.com - 13 Apr 2008 04:21 GMT
The later head gaskets for the 1MZ uses the print-o-seal single layer.
Those are junk too.
> I've had to do it twice in two years. It's a lot of work you need to remove
> the upper plenum and manifold assembly. It's also a good time to replace
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> who does a lot of these jobs it's a design flaw, and not really the head
> gasket. Any slight warping of the head will cause any gasket to fail.