> You don't use a press (generally) and you only need to remove the
> wheel (tire and rim) and brake drum. Punch the old one out with a
> hammer and drift. pull the new one in with a wheel nut on backwards
> and a few greased washers.
That's how I did it on my Jeep when the job had to be done ...
But the OP said he intended to press it out and asked how. All I said was
that anybody with the machine to do it that way would know how. If you would
do it a dfiferent way, tell him not me.
On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:38:08 -0400, clare wrote:
>>"Joseph Wind" <jpg@gif.com.invalid> wrote...
>>> I've got a 93' 4Runner SR5 4wd. One of lug stud on the rear axle is
>>> stripped. How hard is it to replace? Does anyone have links on how to
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>hammer and drift. pull the new one in with a wheel nut on backwards
>and a few greased washers.
Wrong, clare!! If you can get the right tool to press the old
broken/stripped stud out with the axle/hub on the car, that is MUCH
better than beating it out with a hammer and a punch.
http://www.etoolcart.com/browseproducts/Wheel-Stud-Remover-SA91107NE.HTML
See if you can borrow or rent this, or a similar tool from Snap-On,
MAC, etc.
If you have to remove the old stud with a hammer, you need to use a
sufficiently big hammer to make it happen in as few blows as possible
- 4-pound hand sledge or better. And you need to have someone hold an
even bigger hammer (8-pound sledge) behind the flange to absorb the
blow, and not transmit the force into the wheel bearings.
Just "Beating on it with a hammer" to get the stud out is bad, that
can cause Brinnelling damage (tiny dents in the hardened steel) to the
wheel bearings and their races, and in a few weeks your wheel bearings
start to rumble as they go bad and eventually self-destruct.
And you pull in the new studs with the same press tool, or a stack
of greased washers and a new greased lug nut. (Do not use an old lug
nut, if the old nut's threads are hosed you aren't doing the new stud
any favors.) Clean off the grease with brake cleaner before
installing the wheel.
--<< Bruce >>--
Mike - 14 Apr 2008 03:47 GMT
> On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:38:08 -0400, clare wrote:
>>>"Joseph Wind" <jpg@gif.com.invalid> wrote...
[quoted text clipped - 32 lines]
> wheel bearings and their races, and in a few weeks your wheel bearings
> start to rumble as they go bad and eventually self-destruct.
While that may sound good in theory it doesn't happen in the real world. I
have replaced dozens of wheel studs that way and have never experienced a
damaged wheel bearing. Wheel bearings take more of a blow by hitting a large
pothole.
> And you pull in the new studs with the same press tool, or a stack
> of greased washers and a new greased lug nut. (Do not use an old lug
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
clare at snyder dot ontario dot canada - 14 Apr 2008 17:35 GMT
>> On Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:38:08 -0400, clare wrote:
>>>>"Joseph Wind" <jpg@gif.com.invalid> wrote...
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>>
>> --<< Bruce >>--
I've been doing it for over 40 years and never had a problem. Seldom
takes more than 2 smacks with the hammer and they are out. WAY less
inpact than hitting a pothole at 60.
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