Ethanol is a very powerful solvent.  And the car in question is high
mileage, with a lot of crud built up in the fuel tank and lines.  I
would be shocked if it did NOT clog the injectors.

 My bet is he'll have to clean the injectors two or three times, at
least once "mechanic style" with the direct-connect kit, and then run
several bottles of Techron (or equivalent fuel additive cleaner) and
several tanks of gas through the fuel tank to get it all cleaned out.

 You're welcome - and remember, you are diagnosing the problem first.
Do NOT just start throwing replacement parts at it till it works,
unless you get darned lucky that route can be hideously expensive.

 Fuel filters and other cheap maintenance items are OK to change on a
guess because they have to be done every so often anyway.  But don't
go buy a set of injectors or a new in-tank electric fuel pump on a
guess.  You can be out several grand real fast, and still have a dead
car.

 If you must spend money, get good tools.  My opening list would be a
fuel pressure test kit, flare wrenches to change the fuel filter, a
creeper, a decent floor jack and jackstands to get under the car to
the filters, etc. - put them away and they'll still be valuable the
next time you have car troubles.

 If it traces to crud in the injectors, you can buy the professional
injector cleaning kit at a good auto parts store like NAPA.  They have
a little storage toolbox with the regulator, hoses and connectors
needed for the fuel rail fittings on various car brands, instructions,
and two or three cans of cleaner.  Hook it all up and the car runs at
idle on 100% injector cleaner, flushes the dirt right out.

 You can pay a mechanic, and get it done once.  Pay the same amount
of money to buy the good cleaning tool kit, and you own it.  From then
on you only need to buy another can of cleaner and hook it up.

****** divider for emphasis ******

 One other very important thing - GO BUY A PRO-DUTY FIRE EXTINGUISHER
FOR THE CAR, AND A BIG ONE FOR YOUR GARAGE.  NOW, before you go back
to working on this car.  And I'm not kidding around.

****** divider for emphasis ******

 We are dealing with an iffy fuel system here - If the ethanol
attacked the fuel hoses or rubber seals in the fuel system, you could
end up with a fuel leak under 40 PSI plus pressure.  And fuel leaks in
the engine compartment can turn into an engine fire faster than you
can cut the ignition - you want to save the car if you can, if you
don't put it out fast it's scrapyard time...

 You need a good metal head refillable extinguisher, the plastic head
Kidde's that they sell at the hardware store for $12 are junk - if the
plastic siphon tube inside breaks from rough handling you can't tell,
until you go to use it on a fire and it does not work.  And that's NOT
the time to find out.

 My suggestion is the Amerex B417 2-1/2# for in the car, and a B402
or B500 5# for the garage.  They should run roughly $30 for the 2-1/2#
and $40 for the 5#.  http://www.amerexfire.com/Literature/abc.pdf

 Call your local Fire Department for a recommendation of the local FE
shops that sell and service - they won't send you to a crook.  They'll
gladly show you how to use it, you'll probably get an invite to their
next live-fire training session so you can practice with a real
extinguisher and real (controlled) fire.  (Pan with a quart of gas.)

  --<< Bruce >>--

You're welcome and good luck!