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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / October 2006

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And I bought myself a compressor...

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Hachiroku - 01 Oct 2006 05:38 GMT
It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90

After doing a LOT of looking around, I decided I didn't want to run a 240V
line and that this was the best out of everything on the market.

The sale ended today, BUT I went online and got the sale price. It also
comes with a 10 PC tool kit, which irritates me, cause it's the same tools
I bought on E-Bay! I got them much cheaper on E-Bay, so I'll use them and
leave the new ones in the case until the ones I bought burn out..
Ray O - 01 Oct 2006 07:35 GMT
> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I bought on E-Bay! I got them much cheaper on E-Bay, so I'll use them and
> leave the new ones in the case until the ones I bought burn out..

Congratulations!  Don't forget to drain the tank every so often, and put a
drop of air tool oil into the air tool before each use.
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Andrew Stephenson - 01 Oct 2006 16:47 GMT
> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>
> [...]

So now all you need now is a million party balloons?
Signature

Andrew Stephenson

Hachiroku - 02 Oct 2006 02:39 GMT
>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>
>> [...]
>
> So now all you need now is a million party balloons?

I can't separate out Helium!
Bruce L. Bergman - 03 Oct 2006 03:12 GMT
>>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>
>> So now all you need now is a million party balloons?
>
>I can't separate out Helium!

 You're right about that - it's only in the atmosphere in trace
concentrations, and there's no easy or cheap way to make it yourself.

 If you were running an air liquefaction plant and fractioning out
the constituents to get Helium, you'd have many tons of LN2 and
several tons of LOX (roughly 21% in air) to each pound of LHe.

 If you want lots of Helium for cheap you sink a Natural Gas well in
certain areas of Texas, filter the Helium out as a byproduct and sell
it.  Or you drill a Helium well and filter out the Natural Gas as a
byproduct and sell it, depending on how you want to look at it.  ;-P

 --<< Bruce >>--
Hachiroku - 03 Oct 2006 13:30 GMT
>>>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
>   --<< Bruce >>--

I guess I'll just fill the balloons with air!
Dave M. - 02 Oct 2006 05:31 GMT
> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I bought on E-Bay! I got them much cheaper on E-Bay, so I'll use them and
> leave the new ones in the case until the ones I bought burn out..

Oh well, I bought the 33 gal 240 volt. I bought it cheap off the floor. Yep.
I had to install a 240 volt line, but my mistake was to use 2 conductor
10AWG romex, because I later needed a neutral conductor for 110 volts to
power a contactor transformer and for lighting. This unit stays in one
place, so no regrets about the 240 volts.
./Hachiroku - 02 Oct 2006 16:10 GMT
>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>
[quoted text clipped - 11 lines]
> power a contactor transformer and for lighting. This unit stays in one
> place, so no regrets about the 240 volts.

I have enough trouble with Electricity as it is!!! The wirig has never
been updated from it's 1957 origins, and am still running fuses.

I suppose, if I had bought the 240V model, it would have provided the
impetus to get the electrical upgraded...

What's the CFM rating on the 240V model?
Dave M. - 02 Oct 2006 17:41 GMT
It's not on the unit, but I remember 12+ CFM @ 40 and 8+ CFM at 90, but
don't quote me on that!

>>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>
> What's the CFM rating on the 240V model?
Hachiroku - 03 Oct 2006 01:38 GMT
> It's not on the unit, but I remember 12+ CFM @ 40 and 8+ CFM at 90, but
> don't quote me on that!

Holy Crap! That'll run almost anything without wheezing!

>>>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>>>
[quoted text clipped - 23 lines]
>>
>> What's the CFM rating on the 240V model?
Danny G. - 03 Oct 2006 12:48 GMT
>>> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 19 lines]
>
> What's the CFM rating on the 240V model?

A 1 HP motor is still a 1 HP motor @ 120 volts or 230 volts. They both do the same job
and use the same amount of energy all else being the same.

A air compressor that comes in 120 and 230 volt models most likely has the same motor
on both compressors.

Dan
Bruce L. Bergman - 03 Oct 2006 03:37 GMT
>Oh well, I bought the 33 gal 240 volt. I bought it cheap off the floor. Yep.
>I had to install a 240 volt line, but my mistake was to use 2 conductor
>10AWG romex, because I later needed a neutral conductor for 110 volts to
>power a contactor transformer and for lighting. This unit stays in one
>place, so no regrets about the 240 volts.

 Now remember, no cheating and running any 120V loads AT ALL from one
hot leg to ground unless it's an old clothes dryer or range/oven that
is specifically grandfathered...  There is to be no active current
flowing on the safety ground wire for things like control
transformers, work lights, etc., it is for safety ground only.  

 A 208V/240V/277V/480V to 120V control transformer isn't too
expensive in the lower KVA ratings. (100W for ~$60, 150W for ~$75, and
you can often get them surplus for less.) And it gets you legal again.

 Look at the coil on the contactor - most of them are dual voltage
and easily jumpered for the higher voltage.  Then the only thing you
need the transformer for is the work light.

 The only time I install 2-wire Romex is for AC condensing units
where you know they'll absolutely positively never need a neutral.
Ovens, Ranges, Dryers, everything else gets 3-wire, or conduit.

     --<< Bruce >>--
jor - 03 Oct 2006 14:54 GMT
<snip>

> This unit stays in one place, so no regrets about the 240 volts.

You also saved yourself a bundle if you were going to have a licensed
electrician do it. Here (Tucson, Arizona) a new 200 amp service panel
installed runs between $900 and $1,400. I recently had 240v installed
in my garage, one to run my compressor and another for a welder. Also
put in more lights and LOTS of outlets. Expensive? Yea, but it sure is
nice not to have to string extesion cords and power strips!
jor
Hachiroku - 03 Oct 2006 16:40 GMT
> <snip>
>
[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
> nice not to have to string extesion cords and power strips!
> jor

That's how I'm operating now...

I want to have an electrician friend come in and split the basement (the
house is a sort of 'split level'; the front is at ground level and in the
rear the basement is exposed) where my garage is and put in a sub panel
for the garage and the other part, and take the load off the main panel.
Danny G. - 04 Oct 2006 08:54 GMT
>> <snip>
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> rear the basement is exposed) where my garage is and put in a sub panel
> for the garage and the other part, and take the load off the main panel.

Sorry to say it but your service main panel load includes a sub panel.
But you may have unused electric dryer or stove/oven circuits passably
that might power the sub.

GL
Dan
jor - 04 Oct 2006 14:49 GMT
>>> <snip>
>>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>> rear the basement is exposed) where my garage is and put in a sub panel
>> for the garage and the other part, and take the load off the main panel.

> Sorry to say it but your service main panel load includes a sub panel.
> But you may have unused electric dryer or stove/oven circuits passably
> that might power the sub.
>
> GL
> Dan

Not sure I quite understand your comment to Hach, Dan. Anyhow, my old
setup is common to older houses (mine was built in 1972). My service
panel didn't have a main breaker and was somewhat damaged. Anyhow, I
replaced it with a nice shiny 200 amp model and ran a 60 amp circuit to
a new sub panel in the garage. The electrician punched through the
roof, across, the roof about 100' or so and back through into the
garage. I have my compressor on one 240v and have reserved another for
a mig welder. I understand electical principles but don't have the
confidence to take on a job like this one. I still have a pair of bird
bill pliers burnt halfway through as a reminder of how powerful that
stuff is!
jor
Stephen H - 03 Oct 2006 07:00 GMT
For years I had a 20 gal 5 hp 220 v compressor (from sears) I used a home
made cord I plugged into the dryer receptacle when I needed a compressor.
Now I have a upright that can hold 100 psi while running a air nozzle or
sandblaster.  MORE POWER! ( gruntgruntgrunt)

Signature

Stephen W. Hansen
ASE Certified Master Automobile Technician
ASE Automobile Advanced Engine Performance
ASE Undercar Specialist

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm
http://www.troublecodes.net/technical/
http://www.familycar.com/Alignment.htm

> It was on sale at Sears, a 33 Gal, 120V, 8.4 CFM@40 and 6.7CFM@90
>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I bought on E-Bay! I got them much cheaper on E-Bay, so I'll use them and
> leave the new ones in the case until the ones I bought burn out..
 
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