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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / January 2007

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1987 Corolla won't idle.

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seraphicness@gmail.com - 28 Jan 2007 04:16 GMT
Hey,

One day it was running fine, the next day when I went to start it up
to go out it wouldn't idle.

I usually have to let him warm up abit then kick down on the
accelerator to do the choke, (it has an auto-choke) after that it
usually goes into low revs and is ready to drive.
But this time when I did that, the engine chugged at low revs then
just died on me, now I can't get it to idle at all, it just keeps
dying on me.
Also when this first happened, I lifted the bonnet to find that both
my radiator fans are not running at all, and I can't seem to get them
to run.

Any idea on how to fix this before I run it down to a mechanic?

Cheers.
Ray O - 28 Jan 2007 07:39 GMT
> Hey,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Cheers.

Check to make sure that the choke is setting.  Remove the air filter housing
so that you can look down into the top of the carburetor.  Set the choke by
depressing the throttle pedal all the way to the floor once and releasing
the pedal.  The butterfly valve in the carburetor should be closed in the
horizontal position and you should not be able to see the jets protruding
into the venturis.  If the buttery valve is open and you can see down into
the carburetor, the choke is not setting.

If you have 2 electric radiator fans, one is for the AC and one is for the
engine coolant.  The radiator fans should not run until the coolant reaches
a certain temperature.  If you want to confirm whether they work or not,
unplug the connection to them and they should run.  Make sure your hands and
any loose clothing are not where they will be caught in the fans.  Even if
the fans are not operating properly, they would not cause the idle problem.
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
--

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

larry moe 'n curly - 28 Jan 2007 09:35 GMT
> One day it was running fine, the next day when I went to start it up
> to go out it wouldn't idle.
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> just died on me, now I can't get it to idle at all, it just keeps
> dying on me.

I'm no expert, but according to the factory manual for the 1986 4-door
version, which should be almost identical, the problem could be the
choke, needle valve, a vacuum hose leak, or a fuel cut solenoid
valve.

In my case the problem was the fuel cut solenoid valve because the
tiny o-ring that went over its tip had crumbled and gotten into the
float valve (not a factory original one -- lacked a filter screen).  
If the choke is opening normally (i.e., the engine won't idle even
when you stick a screwdriver in the carb throat to hold open the choke
-- make sure it's big enough that it can't fall in), this may be your
problem, too.  But I'd also check the vacuum hoses going to the choke
diaphram to see that there are no leaks (you may have to cover some of
the fittings when doing this).
Enorym - 28 Jan 2007 17:21 GMT
Usualy when its both fans not working...its the Temprature Fan Switch
its a biometalic switch thats on the top side of your engine they
always go bad in any car that you might own.

On Jan 27, 8:16 pm, seraphicn...@gmail.com wrote:
> Hey,
>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
>
> Cheers.
Ray O - 28 Jan 2007 17:32 GMT
> Usualy when its both fans not working...its the Temprature Fan Switch
> its a biometalic switch thats on the top side of your engine they
> always go bad in any car that you might own.

The 2 electric fans in the OP's car serve different functions and are not
controlled by the same switch.

One fan is controlled by coolant temperature (the switch is known as
bi-metallic, not biometallic) and the other is controlled by the air
conditioner circuit.

The control circuits for these fans are pretty reliable and do not always go
bad.
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Enorym - 28 Jan 2007 17:38 GMT
its a 21 year old car...except the truth...Check yur fuses, and your
fanswitch if that doesnt fix it, it may be your fans.  -an o in
biometalic.  I have 4 1984-1986 Toyota Corolla's they are all track
cars mine are all fan clutch driven when stock however they are no
longer stock and have eletric fans.  I hook up a toggle switch so I
can turn them on in demand.

> > its a biometalic switch thats on the top side of your engine they
> > always go bad in any car that you might own.The 2 electric fans in the OP's car serve different functions and are not
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)
Enorym - 28 Jan 2007 18:17 GMT
I see this problem on a daily basis, I run a 1800-radiator franchise.  
Change your vacume lines make sure you get the right size so they dont
leak.  I bet your idle problem lays there.  Your correct about the ac
condencer unit fan...But they didnt work that way back in 1987 infact
most of them were non-a/c cars.  On a 4ac engine one Bi-Metalic switch
runs two fans for a hot 4ac that go on at 175F to 185F.

> > its a biometalic switch thats on the top side of your engine they
> > always go bad in any car that you might own.The 2 electric fans in the OP's car serve different functions and are not
[quoted text clipped - 10 lines]
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)
Ray O - 28 Jan 2007 19:25 GMT
>I see this problem on a daily basis, I run a 1800-radiator franchise.
> Change your vacume lines make sure you get the right size so they dont
> leak.  I bet your idle problem lays there.  Your correct about the ac
> condencer unit fan...But they didnt work that way back in 1987 infact
> most of them were non-a/c cars.  On a 4ac engine one Bi-Metalic switch
> runs two fans for a hot 4ac that go on at 175F to 185F.

If you are saying that a bad cooling fan control switch is the reason most
cooling fans do not come on, then I agree.  If you are saying that all
cooling fan control switches go bad all the time, then I repsectfully
disagree.

AC installation rates on all Corollas sold in the U.S. in 1987 was greater
than 50%, probably in the neighborhood of 75%.  Regional preferences
obviously made a big difference.  AC installation rates in the southern U.S.
was well over 90%, while it was closer to 55 ~ 60% in the Boston Region's
sales area.

Signature

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Enorym - 28 Jan 2007 19:30 GMT
IR CONFUSED...at anyrate. there are three diffrent elements why your
fan might not come on...fuse, fan switch, broken fans.

On Jan 28, 11:25 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:

> >I see this problem on a daily basis, I run a 1800-radiator franchise.
> > Change your vacume lines make sure you get the right size so they dont
[quoted text clipped - 16 lines]
> Ray O
> (correct punctuation to reply)
mmward@webtv.net - 31 Jan 2007 07:16 GMT
1987 Corolla won't idle.  

Group: alt.autos.toyota Date: Sat, Jan 27, 2007, 8:16pm (EST-3) From:
seraphicness@gmail.com
Hey,
One day it was running fine, the next day when I went to start it up to
go out it wouldn't idle.
I usually have to let him warm up abit then kick down on the accelerator
to do the choke, (it has an auto-choke) after that it usually goes into
low revs and is ready to drive. But this time when I did that, the
engine chugged at low revs then just died on me, now I can't get it to
idle at all, it just keeps dying on me.
Also when this first happened, I lifted the bonnet to find that both my
radiator fans are not running at all, and I can't seem to get them to
run.
Any idea on how to fix this before I run it down to a mechanic?
Cheers.

Honey, I miss my '87 Corolla.   Gorgeous,  Blue.   I need reliable, she
always  started up great, idled fine...took great care of her.  She took
a huge hit at 5 years old, came back fine.  At the end,   got fussy when
wet...started up, warmed up,  ran fine, stop at a light, oh, damn.
Stalled, no matter what we did. I spent a lot to keep her going.   But
she would not  not go any further till she decides to go.   She got
risky, blocking traffic, I did a lot, spent a lot, but  can't take
chances here...maybe you can.
Had to let her go in 2002 for My 2003 Corolla.  Maybe it's time.
 
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