
Signature
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
>> No lighter element came with the car, just the cigarette jack and a
>> plastic cover. The label inside the cover sais "don't exceed 50W".
>> 50w/12v = 4.1 Amps. I'm way under that.
>> So I'm not worried about fire or anything dropping in it.
But you can see how wedging the lighter element in can cause it to
get way hot, right? When you do the dodge below, hide the element so
someone can't play with it...
>> I only plan to use a GPS unit. 300ma. I prefer using the cigarette power
>> jack. Perhaps I can jumper it to the "Add-a-Circuit" tap. I don't know
>> where the cigarette power jack wire ends up; in the fuse box or
>> somewhere else?
>
>The cigarette power jack wire ends up at the lighter fuse.
But after that (feeding the fuse) it goes through the accessory
relay in one of the fuse blocks, probably the one under the hood.
You can use an Add-A-Fuse tap and wire one in reverse - Tap off a
constant fuse (like the Dome light) to get the always on lead, then
connect a .110 male tab crimp connector to mimic a fuse prong and plug
it into the "out" side of the Lighter fuse to feed constant power to
the lighter. Easily reversible when you sell the car.
If that makes no sense, print this out and go find a radio installer
or a mechanic - they'll go "Oh, Yeah!" and fix you up fast.
--<< Bruce >>--
jane doe - 02 Feb 2007 01:46 GMT
Thanks all.
> >> No lighter element came with the car, just the cigarette jack and a
> >> plastic cover. The label inside the cover sais "don't exceed 50W".
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
jane doe - 29 Mar 2007 02:34 GMT
The radio is on the same 15A fuse as the 12V accessory for some reason. I
don't want the radio on all the time though. Any idea where the radio and
accessory wires are joined ? in line somewhere or at the fusebox ?
Thanks
J
> >> No lighter element came with the car, just the cigarette jack and a
> >> plastic cover. The label inside the cover sais "don't exceed 50W".
[quoted text clipped - 25 lines]
>
> --<< Bruce >>--
Ray O - 29 Mar 2007 03:50 GMT
> The radio is on the same 15A fuse as the 12V accessory for some reason. I
> don't want the radio on all the time though. Any idea where the radio and
> accessory wires are joined ? in line somewhere or at the fusebox ?
>
> Thanks
> J
I can't answer your question without a wiring diagram, but you can get taps
for blade-type fuses and insulated crimp connectors for the taps at auto
parts stores. Tap the fused side (the side that gets disconnected when the
fuse is pulled or blown) of a fuse that is always hot, like the dome light;
connect a female insulated blade-type crimp connector to a wire and connect
the wire to the accessory socket. Look at the back of the socket for a
connector that will fit, and unplug the factory connector. This way, you do
not disturb the factory wire harness and can easily return it to factory
condition when you sell the car.

Signature
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
Bruce L. Bergman - 31 Mar 2007 21:48 GMT
>The radio is on the same 15A fuse as the 12V accessory for some reason. I
>don't want the radio on all the time though. Any idea where the radio and
>accessory wires are joined ? in line somewhere or at the fusebox ?
If you are plugging in small things like a cell-phone charger, go
get an Accessory Power Socket to mount under the dashboard, a small
spool of #14 wire, an inline ATO fuse holder with a little plastic
flip cover for the fuse, a 10A ATO Fuse, and an "Add-A-Tap" adapter.
A few barrel crimp connectors and a pair of electrical stripper
crimper pliers.
Oh, and get an ATO "Spare Fuse Kit", so you have an assortment of
extras with you at 2AM, throw it in the glove box. Use an ATO inline
fuse holder, for the simple reason that you only need one kind of
spare fuses to match what the car uses. No box of spare 3AG glass
fuses to add to the clutter.
Mount the socket somewhere knees and legs won't be hitting it. If
the dashboard isn't grounded steel in that location, hook a wire to
the baseplate and go to the main body ground bolt, usually in one of
the cowl panels in front of the doors - where your outboard ankle is
when seated.
Run the lead from the +12V center tab of the accessory socket over
to the fuse box, tying it up out of the way of sharp edges and moving
parts (like the brake pedal linkage) with nylon wire ties.
Splice the power lead to the in-line fuse holder, and splice the
other end of the fuse holder to the Add-A-Tap. With a test lamp
(looks like an icepick with a ground wire on the handle) find a fuse
that's constant on, like the dome light. Remove the fuse and figure
out which end is the power in, and put the end of the Add-A-Tap with
the tap wire on that end. Replace the Dome fuse in the fuse socket
part of the Add-A-Tap.
--<< Bruce >>--
(And remember NEVER GO BIGGER than the fuse holder markings, if you
plug in the fuse and it pops immediately there is a problem that must
be fixed. Try to stick a 30A fuse in a 10A slot "to get home" and you
could start a nice electrical fire and totally destroy the vehicle.
$3,000 worth of damage usually totals out most cars.)