>I wonder if Ray's suggestion that the ignition key be ON, when you try to
>test the socket isn't the answer to this problem... As I recall, it has
>to be on to activate the lighter.
The lighter socket is switched with the Accessory position on the
ignition key.
> If it's $140 for the dealer to replace
>it, that's one helluva precious cigar lighter! The OP doesn't state how
>old his car is, but it might be under warranty still.
At the dealer, $140 isn't too steep figuring on a totally new socket
and a new element, and the labor to change it out. Remember, they
don't want to see any go-backs or it looks bad on their Customer
Satisfaction Surveys, so they're going to sell you a new lighter
pop-out element and the trim knob too, even if you don't need them.
--<< Bruce >>--
toyo999 - 19 Mar 2007 07:31 GMT
I took the stock cigarette socket out and put one in from Canadian
tire. When I first put it in, my fuse blew twice (20A). Then I put a
30A fuse in and the radio started working again, however whenever I
would plug in the charger, the radio would shut off and the charger
would get really hot.
Am I doing something wrong? The right wires are hooked up to the wires
on the stock cigarette lighter. The cigarette socket does have power
but it seems like it has too much and if I dont unplug the car charge
quick, it will most likely fry the charger.
Any suggestions??
(95 Corolla DX 1.6L)
Thanks for the replies.
toyo999
> On Sun, 18 Mar 2007 11:05:19 -0700, "mack"
> <mackerel@dslextreme.com>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> --<< Bruce >>--

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Bruce L. Bergman - 19 Mar 2007 15:43 GMT
>I took the stock cigarette socket out and put one in from Canadian
>tire. When I first put it in, my fuse blew twice (20A). Then I put a
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
>
>Any suggestions??
"Car charge"? What the Sam Hill are you plugging into the lighter?
And if the fuse box calls for a 20A fuse you NEVER go any larger.
That fuse is there to protect the car wiring harness.
The lighter socket is only for SMALL loads - the lighter draws about
10 amps for 15 - 30 seconds and that's the MOST you should be drawing
through there, or you'll just pop the thermal protector on the new
socket.
If you want to draw more than about 5 amps continuous (or send, if
this is one of those lighter-to-lighter jumper cables), you need to
install an "accessory power socket", cabled straight to the battery
with an inline fuse at the battery sized to protect the wires.
Throw out the "charge cable", you're only going to blow something
up. A set of real jumper cables is $20 tops. The main wiring harness
on your car is a minimum of $2500 to replace if you burn it up playing
with the lighter socket - you do the math.
Oh, and your insurance will not cover it - "No flame, No claim."
Cheaper to total it, and you get to buy a new one all on your own.
--<< Bruce >>--