P0441 and P0446 are the Evaporative Emissions Control System, this is
gasoline fumes that escape from the fuel system tothe outside. There are
other hardware issues int he system that can cause these codes, and they can
be posted to the computer a very long time ago, or they could be posted
yesterday. The strategy I would use is to keep them on your list and reset
the computer so the codes go away. Make sure you do not stuff an extra few
gallons of gas into the tank on your fill ups, and make sure you screw the
gas cap on tightly -- make it click a few times if it has a ratechet
mechanism.

There is no chance that you are being exposed to carbon monoxide. Well,
there is always that chance I suppose, but these codes are not the warning
signs.

Before you start throwing bundles of twenties at your car, I suggest that if
you have no symptoms that translate through to Drivability Issues -- you are
not noticing any change in performance -- then keep the list of codes you
have downloaded, then if the light comes on again, pull another list then
take steps to repair items that appear on both lists. I'll go out on a limb
here, I think you will be needing a Throttle Position Sensor -- the likely
source of the P0120 code.

Your car is OBD II compliant, this means you can buy the test equipment that
pulls codes and resets the computer -- erases the codes that are present.
Alternatively, you can visit Autozone parts stores, or other auto parts
stores that offer Loaner Tool Programs, and use their loaner scan tool for
free. The data port in your car is located along the bottom of the dash
board in the vicinity of where your left knee rests as you drive the car.
The directions on pulling codes are clearly indicated on the scan tool.
There is no reason anybody that knows how to raise the hood and find the
headlight bulbs can not operate the machine used to pull codes. If you elect
to buy the scan tool, they are available at pretty much any auto parts store
and they are on eBay all of the time. There are several models and run in a
price range of $60ish for the cheapest and $150ish of the best. I suggest
one in the middle of the price points, about $75ish, if you will be doing
your own servicing. If you are the sort that pays a mechanic, then you can
get by with the lower cost model. It will pull codes and give a readout, and
let you reset the computer. As you climb the price ladder, you get more
features and functions. Read the boxes for details.

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When my "check engine" light came on in my '98 Corolla, it had a very simple
solution: the gas cap wasn't on tight enough.  Make sure it's on tightly -
until you hear it click, & see if that happens to take care of it.

Cathy

Do not take the advice of anyone who tells you to replace a part without
first checking the part because they generally have only a rudimentary
understanding of automotive systems.  Proper diagnostic procedure it to
CHECK the part before replacing it, or you may end up wasting a lot of
money, and IMO, VIP did you a favor by not attempting to diagnose something
they are not capable of diagnosing.

All 3 codes can probably be diagnosed in an hour or less at a Toyota dealer,
and they generally will apply the diagnostic fee towards the repair if you
have it done.  Your car will not pass an emissions inspection with the check
engine light illuminated so you need to get the problem fixed before you
take it in for an inspection.

I don't recommend investing in a code scanner if you are not familiar with
automotive systems.  They will give you codes but they will not tell you how
to check a component or tell you if a component is working properly or not.
For example, do you know what a throttle position sensor is, what its
function is, where it is on the car, and how to test if it is good or not?
If you are fairly handy, you can invest in a Haynes or Chilton's repair
manual, or if you are more than fairly handy, you should invest in the
factory service manual.  You can get some basic repair procedures at
www.autozone.com