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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / August 2007Ignition Coil issue
I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. The question I have is that I have had to replace the Number 2 Coil pack about once every three months. I have done this about 2 times now and it is getting time to do it again. I would like to fix it for good this time since I have the time to do it and another car to drive while I get it fixed or poke around at it more. After about 2 months with the new coil pack this will happen. When I start the truck in the morning it runs really rough. Like it is running on only 5 cylinders instead of 6. After about 30 seconds to 2 minutes it runs smooth. Right near the 3-month mark. It will not run smooth until about the five minute mark and you can here it miss every once and awhile at an idle thereafter. The out come is always the same the Check engine light comes on and my reader always says it is misfire on one of the cylinders. What happens is that the cylinder that the Coil pack sits on misfires but the opposite cylinder will fire with the same coil pack. I have tested the coil pack by putting it on a different cylinder and reset the ECU. Same thing happens Check Engine light comes on after a short time but the misfired cylinder moves to where ever I moved the coil pack. So I know the coil pack is bad but just cannot figure out why it is always the same one and how to prevent it from burning out after another three months. The clue here is your observation of: " The out come is always the same the Check engine light comes on and my reader always says it is misfire on one of the cylinders. What happens is that the cylinder that the Coil pack sits on misfires but the opposite cylinder will fire with the same coil pack." One side of the HV side of the coil is shorted to or is breaking down to ground. I would assume you have an intermittant, open in the ignition wire going to the alternate spark plug or a gap in that spark plug that is too wide. As a result the coil secondary is being over voltage stressed and is breaking down. Replace your defective coil, ignition wires and spark plugs with OEM replacements. >I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] >why it is always the same one and how to prevent it from burning out >after another three months. > The clue here is your observation of: > [quoted text clipped - 50 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I have done that twice now. I have changed all plugs and wires each time. What else if anything could cause the same ignition coil to malfuntion? Is the ignitor and the ignition coil all one part? If it is a seperate part is there a way to test it for the correct voltage? On Aug 8, 12:55 pm, WhatAnnoy...@gmail.com wrote: > > The clue here is your observation of: > > " The out come is always the same the Check engine light comes on and my [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > >why it is always the same one and how to prevent it from burning out > > >after another three months. Is it possible, since the fault follows the coil, that something is damaging the coil? What pops to my mind? Temperature - is the coil too exposed to heat? Another option is some fluid that may be dripping on the coil (engine oil, ATF, windshield fluid, coolant?) and cause it to fail? The obvious, such as grounding is taken care of? Solid connections? Nothing that rub/s the wires? Go with a fine tooth comb and try to eliminate each item. Good luck and do report to us what you found. > On Aug 8, 12:55 pm, WhatAnnoy...@gmail.com wrote: >> [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > Go with a fine tooth comb and try to eliminate each item. Good luck and do > report to us what you found. I would guess that something is zapping it out, that is, there is an errant ground somewhere that is damaging the coil. I don't know this engine at all, so I wouldn't know where to look, but this is what I would look for... >> The clue here is your observation of: >> [quoted text clipped - 59 lines] > malfuntion? Is the ignitor and the ignition coil all one part? If it > is a seperate part is there a way to test it for the correct voltage? Did you use OEM spark plugs and wires or aftermarket?  SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > <WhatAnnoy...@gmail.com> wrote in message > [quoted text clipped - 71 lines] > > - Show quoted text - I have used both OEM and aftermarket. > I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. > [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > why it is always the same one and how to prevent it from burning out > after another three months. I wonder if you take it to the dealer and they fix it, if they will get to diagnose it for real in 2 or 3 months. Jeff >I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >this time since I have the time to do it and another car to drive >while I get it fixed or poke around at it more. Assuming you have had the vehicle for a few years, has anything happened to it that might have caused the original coil-pack to fail? Folks in this news group seem to get excited about using only OEM parts. Personally, I haven't had any problems with after-market, new parts. But I'd stay away from after-market rebuilt parts. Are the coil-packs you bought new or rebuilt? Jack --- avast! Antivirus: Outbound message clean. Virus Database (VPS): 000764-3, 08/09/2007 Tested on: 8/10/2007 9:21:53 AM avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software. http://www.avast.com > >I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. > [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] > Tested on: 8/10/2007 9:21:53 AM > avast! - copyright (c) 1988-2007 ALWIL Software.http://www.avast.com That is the thing I was trying to figure out. What would cause the coil pack to fail since they don't fail all the often? I tested the current coil pack ( which is from cylinder 3) this past weekend and everything was within the limits on both primary and secondary coils. I pulled the plug from the cylinder three, which is what reported the and to my surprise it was shot. The white ceramic around the electrode was cracked. Other than that the plug looked new. No excessive wear or deposits. I looked into it a bit more and came up with some different ideas on why or how this could happen. I went here to compare what my plug looked like with others http://www.spark-plugs.co.uk/pages/technical/diagnosis.htm It was in-between breakage and over heating. Leaning more toward over heating since it was just cracked. So the over heating is caused by the following: 1. Possible causes are overadvanced ignition timing 2. Air/fuel mixture too lean 3. Water or oil level too low 4. Plugs not fitted (tightened) correctly 5. Plug heat range too hot. How would I check for overadvanced ignition timing? How would I check the Air/Fuel mixture? >> >I have a 97 4runner with about 200+ on it. >> [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > How would I check for overadvanced ignition timing? Hook up an OBD II scan tool, hook up a timing light, short connectors TE1 and E1 in the diagnostic connector under the hood, start the car, point the timing light at the timing marks next to the lower pulley, and see if ignition timiing is somewhere inthe neighborhood of 8 to 12 degrees BTDC. > How would I check the Air/Fuel mixture? The OBD II diagnostic should be able to detect a lean air/fuel mixture. If you get diagnostic trouble code (DTC) P0171 or P0173, then the system is too lean. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) |
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