Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / October 2007
Mazda B2600 question
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Devils Advocate - 23 Oct 2007 20:45 GMT I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years.
I have a problem whereby the truck loses power, bucks, and sputters frequently.
I have just replaced plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button.
Fuel pressure is 22 p
Any ideas?
I know this is toyota forum.
Ph@Boy - 23 Oct 2007 21:23 GMT > I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I know this is toyota forum. A bit more information would be helpful. Did this begin suddenly? Does it only misfire under load, acceleration, speed, ect., what conditions? Mileage, filter changes, repair history? Who checked the fuel pressure? It's fifteen years old and it could be one or many things.
Devils Advocate - 23 Oct 2007 21:39 GMT >> I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. >> [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> I know this is toyota forum. > A bit more information would be helpful. Did this begin suddenly? Ongoing for several months if not a year. Happened last year, and chance distributer cap, and seems to resolve issue.
Does
> it only misfire under load, acceleration, speed, ect., what conditions? More so when accelerating. However, does happen under most conditions.
> Mileage, filter changes, repair history? 226,000kms. New fuel filter. Regular tune ups. Original computer. New gas tank with old fuel pump (pressure 22p).
Who checked the fuel pressure? Mechanic. The fuel filter was removed when checked.
> It's fifteen years old and it could be one or many things. Yeah, but finding a mechanic that will not do trial and error at my cost is not my first option.
Mike Hunter - 23 Oct 2007 23:39 GMT Nobody can analyze a problem in a NG. I would suggest the vehicle be hooked up to be analyzed to determine the cause.
I would take it to a Ford dealer, Ford built your truck, at their Metuchen NJ plant. The shop rates are generally $10 to $15 an hour lower at Ford dealers than Mazda dealers. ;)
mike
>>> I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. >>> [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > Yeah, but finding a mechanic that will not do trial and error at my cost > is not my first option. Devils Advocate - 24 Oct 2007 00:01 GMT > Nobody can analyze a problem in a NG. I would suggest the vehicle be > hooked up to be analyzed to determine the cause. > > I would take it to a Ford dealer, Ford built your truck, at their Metuchen > NJ plant. The shop rates are generally $10 to $15 an hour lower at Ford > dealers than Mazda dealers. ;) Ford did not build my truck. I had to to mazda once, and they change to distributer cap, which was a very temporary solution.
Ph@Boy - 24 Oct 2007 03:53 GMT >>> I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. >>> [quoted text clipped - 29 lines] > Yeah, but finding a mechanic that will not do trial and error at my cost is > not my first option. It could be a coil or coils going bad. That is just a guess, but coils can fail or be intermittent under engine load along with heat.
Jeff - 23 Oct 2007 21:34 GMT > I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Any ideas? Go to a Mazda forum.
> I know this is toyota forum. Funny, you don't act like it.
Jeff
Ray O - 24 Oct 2007 04:02 GMT >I have a 92 mazda b2600 that I have owned for a few years. > [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > I know this is toyota forum. "Sputtering" generally is caused by loss of spark or fuel. Did you use OEM ignition parts or aftermarket?
I'm not sure what the fuel specification is at idle and at higher RPM, but 22 PSI sounds a little low for a fuel injected vehicle. I would check the specification.
While you are trying to figure out what is going on, try a bottle of Chevron Techron fuel injection cleaner and see if it makes a difference.
Also, check the usual suspects: air filter, intake tubing between the air filter housing and throttle body, and manifold vacuum.
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Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
Devils Advocate - 24 Oct 2007 18:14 GMT Just came from Mazda Dealer and they said, it could be fuel pump because pressure should be 40 psi, not 22. Secondly could be distributer causing problems. They say it could take 1-4 hours to diagnose, then more hours to repair.
ouch!
Imput?
Ray O - 25 Oct 2007 06:33 GMT > Just came from Mazda Dealer and they said, it could be fuel pump because > pressure should be 40 psi, not 22. Secondly could be distributer causing [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Imput? I thought 22 PSI was a little low, which is why I mentioned that it should be checked. Proper diagnosis entails hooking up a fuel pressure gauge to measure pressure, and then measuring fuel volume delivered in a beaker. You could also have a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump pickup screen.
I suspect that you have both a fuel delivery problem that is causing reduced performance but not the bucking, and an ignition problem is causing the bucking.
1-4 hours to properly diagnose seems reasonable to me.
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Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
Devils Advocate - 25 Oct 2007 19:21 GMT >> Just came from Mazda Dealer and they said, it could be fuel pump because >> pressure should be 40 psi, not 22. Secondly could be distributer causing [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > I thought 22 PSI was a little low, which is why I mentioned that it should > be checked. 22 psi is low, and should be 40 psi according to mazda dealer. I will need a new fuel pump installed.
You
> could also have a clogged fuel filter or fuel pump pickup screen. Fuel pressure was done w/o fuel filter hooked up. Will be installing new fuel pump as well.
> I suspect that you have both a fuel delivery problem that is causing > reduced performance but not the bucking, and an ignition problem is > causing the bucking. According to mazda, the low fuel pressure can cause the truck to run sluggish, and back fire.....in other word run like a bag of dirt. I'm not convinced the fuel pump is causing all my problems. I guess I'll know when I change it. I will update you at that time.
> 1-4 hours to properly diagnose seems reasonable to me. At about 75 dollars canadian, I'm not sure if that's feasible for a diagnosis which still may be wrong.
I can do the trial and error myself.
plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. fuel pump and fuel filter next.
Mike Hunter - 25 Oct 2007 19:37 GMT Prime example of how one can save money by have one problem properly diagnosed before changes parts.
mike
>>> Just came from Mazda Dealer and they said, it could be fuel pump because >>> pressure should be 40 psi, not 22. Secondly could be distributer causing [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] > plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. > fuel pump and fuel filter next. Devils Advocate - 26 Oct 2007 00:29 GMT > Prime example of how one can save money by have one problem properly > diagnosed before changes parts. I have already paid Mazda several months back for the exact issue, and they improperly diagnosed the problem.
> mike > [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >> plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. >> fuel pump and fuel filter next. Mike Hunter - 26 Oct 2007 19:00 GMT I told you to take it to a Ford. ;)
mike
>> Prime example of how one can save money by have one problem properly >> diagnosed before changes parts. [quoted text clipped - 44 lines] >>> plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. >>> fuel pump and fuel filter next. Devils Advocate - 26 Oct 2007 21:03 GMT >I told you to take it to a Ford. ;) Ford know nothing about a japanese mazda, not to mention I wouldn't take a wheelbarrow to ford.
Cheers
> mike Mike Hunter - 27 Oct 2007 00:25 GMT If your truck is not a Ford Ranger, than it must be one very old truck, built back when Mazda was making small trucks in Japan for Ford, out of the B1600. ;)
mike
>>I told you to take it to a Ford. ;) > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > >> mike Devils Advocate - 27 Oct 2007 01:50 GMT > If your truck is not a Ford Ranger, than it must be one very old truck, > built back when Mazda was making small trucks in Japan for Ford, out of > the B1600. ;) Ford took over Mazda in 1994. At that time, the mazda turn into one heap of junk. My truck is a 1992.
Mike Hunter - 27 Oct 2007 19:35 GMT Perhaps you are correct. What is first digit of your VIN?
mike
>> If your truck is not a Ford Ranger, than it must be one very old truck, >> built back when Mazda was making small trucks in Japan for Ford, out of [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > of junk. > My truck is a 1992. Ray O - 26 Oct 2007 05:51 GMT <snipped>
> plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. > fuel pump and fuel filter next. Did the Mazda dealer install the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and distributor rotor? If not, what brand parts are installed?
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Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
Devils Advocate - 26 Oct 2007 11:27 GMT > <snipped> >> >> plugs, wires, distributer cap, rotor button already installed. >> fuel pump and fuel filter next. > Did the Mazda dealer install the plugs, wires, distributor cap, and > distributor rotor? If not, what brand parts are installed? Yes Mazda dealer installed distributer cap/rotor button, but had to replaced it again the other day with Canadian tire product. The name escapes me now........it's orange and white box. To be honest, I'm not convinced that either the rotor button, cap, wires were causing any issue. I changed the plugs because they were satched with gas due to flooding it trying to start it numerous times. (it was parked and not started for about 3 months or less)
I intend to have the fuel pump replaced next week. Hoping for the best! Cost of fuel pump is $200.00 (garage cost), not OEM) I will also be having the unit redone at cost of $100.00. The add installation on top of that.
> Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply) Ray O - 27 Oct 2007 04:22 GMT >> <snipped> >>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >> Ray O >> (correct punctuation to reply) I think you would have been better off staying with the Mazda branded ignition parts instead of aftermarket, but don't change them unless you still have the old parts.
Also check the ignition coil function.
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Ray O (correct punctuation to reply)
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