On Dec 15 2007, 11:10 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>
wrote:

Mine was was what you describe as the 2 bolts on the inside torque
plate type setup.  It also has 2 pins with cotter type pins on the
ends that pass through each pad to hold them in place.  I pasted this
from my reply to someone at
www.toyotanation.com.  It's a great discussion group and I have gotten
alot of help from the guys there.  Also 4x4wire. com is another great
source of info:

"I agree with McNar's response. As a matter of fact, I used his info
to do mine and he was pretty much right on the money. My 05 had 51k
and my mechanic told me I needed new front pads. Rotors were fine.
Remove the lug nuts with a (22 mm?) 6 point socket. I've found that
using a breaker bar with a 1/2" drive socket works well and keeps the
torque nice and direct, for easy removal.
I've done brakes on other vehicles and this one was quite easy. I
removed the cap from master cyl to allow expansion. To detach the
caliper from the wheel hub, you will need a good 6 point (17mm?)
socket on a breaker bar. Getting these loose was the most challenging
part, as this was the first time for breaks. I think the manual
recommends 90 foot pounds torque! On my other vehicle (95 explorer)
the brake line is ridgid except for the last 6 inches flexible. This
makes it a bit easier to brakes, as I just hang the caliper up out of
the way with a coat hanger, when removing the pads from it. On the
4runner the brake lines are ridgid, then flexible, then a small ridgid
piece attachs to the caliper. This makes it necessary to remove the
line from the caliper to replace the pads, otherwise it would kink.
Line came off easily (10 mm I think) and I pushed a small rubber plug
into it to stop it from dripping while I removed the pads from the
caliper.

There are 2 slide pins that pass through shoes and they have small
wire clip thing that goes thru a small hole in the end of the pins.
This prevents the pin from sliding out. The clip looks like a twisted
paperclip. Also note the anti-squeel clip (flat butterfly shaped piece
of flat steel) that goes between the two shoes. It "wraps" around the
lower slide pin and will be released when slide pin is removed. Slide
pins were a little bit dirty, so I was nice to have a 3/8" drift to
drive them out. I used some light emmory cloth to clean them up.
Remove the 2 anti squeel shims per each pad as they can be reused on
the new pads. Be sure to use break quiet "greese" goop. I got a bottle
at Advance Auto with enough to do many jobs. It's a light red color
and squeezes out like wood glue from the bottle. It will set up in 10
min enough to reassemble. I think it firms up even more with time/heat
from the shoes. The rotors came off without effort, to I chipped off
any loose rust/scale and put antiseeze around the mating surface
before replacing it. Explorer discs always rust froze to the hub, so I
tend to be paranoid about this. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.

Be sure the break line hole is pointed away from any painted surfaces
or other areas you don't want coated with break fluid, before you
compress the pads/pistons. Just taping the pins free with the drift
caused it to squirt out fluid. My old pads had about 3/8" material
left and the new ones have about 1/2" material. I checked it with the
caliper, but can't remember exact measurements. Reassembly is the
reverse of removal. Be sure to use slide greese on the slide bolts.
It's of course easier to rebolt the caliper to the axle hub before
reattaching the breakline. Don't forget to remove any plug from the
line if you used one. After attaching it, open the bleeder screw and
have assistant pump pedal until you purge out all the air (same 10mm
wrench). Tighten it down and have them pump pedal to set the shoes.
Good Luck.....piece of cake!
Ted
************
OK, it sounds like you have the second type of brake (not "break") setup I
described.  Next time, if you do not need to replace the rotors, don't
bother removing the caliper from the torque plate.  Just remove the 2 pins
that pass through the brake pads and slide the pads out.  This way, you do
not have to bleed the brake lines.