Another little problem I can use some advice on.....
it has the 3S-FE engine......
I replaced the camshaft oil seal. The timing belt slipped on the crank
sprocket, so I lost the setting. No problem with the camshaft pulley,
i had it lined up with the dot. So for the crankshaft setting, I
pulled out no. 1 sparkplug and carefully set that piston to TDC. Then
installed belt back on camshaft pulley. However, now the car is not
leaking oil.... but the idle is slower, and it seems to have lost
power somewhat. I have a very nice Equus timing light, so I need to
check how the basic timing is set. But I think that you have to
install a jumper in the diagnostic connector to check *basic* timing.
And when I do this, is the crank pulley notch suppose to align at zero
mark and not change with engine speed? I have heard that if the basic
timing is off even one tooth off, it can mess up performance. When
releasing the idler pulley to tension the belt, one pulley or the
other could easily have jumped over to the next/wrong tooth.
And if I determine that it is advanced or retarded, I am not sure
which way to turn either the camshaft or crankshaft in order to
correct it. Like, is one degree of error equal one notch on the belt,
or what?
Thanks, Geronimo
Ray O - 30 Dec 2007 16:50 GMT
> Another little problem I can use some advice on.....
>
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Thanks, Geronimo
To make things a little less confusing, refer to crankshaft/camshaft timing
as cam timing, and refer to ignition timing that you check with a timing
light as ignition timing.
After you release tension on the idler pulley, you should re-check cam
timing before replacing the timing cover. At this point, you should
disconnect the negative terminal on the battery and turn the engine over by
hand so that cylinder #1 is at TDC compression and then re-check the timing
marks on the cam pulley to make sure they align. Check cam timing by
lining up the marks, not by moving them moving them one way or the other on
the notches. If they are off, you will have to re-adjust.
After you have verified that cam timing is correct, check base (not "basic")
ignition timing. The emissions sticker under the hood should have the
proper timing specification, i.e., X degrees BTDC at Y RPM.
Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
Connect a tachometer to the tachometer test lead on the distributor.
Short terminals TE1 and E1 in the data link connector (DLC) under the hood
next to the brake master cylinder.
Check timing and adjust the distributor as necessary.
Keep in mind that if the engine idle speed is not correct, ignition timing
cannot be checked properly.
This page at Autozone's web site has basic instructions for checking
ignition timing:
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/b8/74/0900823d8013b874/repai
rInfoPages.htm
Good luck!

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Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)
geronimo - 30 Dec 2007 21:04 GMT
Oh....well, probably only the first part of that, turning over by hand
and checking the cam alignment at TDC is what I need to do to get it
straightened out. That won't be hard to do as the upper timing belt
cover is still off. I forgot about the turning over engine by hand
par,t and then rechecking. Thanks!
>> Another little problem I can use some advice on.....
>>
[quoted text clipped - 51 lines]
>
>Good luck!
Ray O - 31 Dec 2007 03:07 GMT
> Oh....well, probably only the first part of that, turning over by hand
> and checking the cam alignment at TDC is what I need to do to get it
> straightened out. That won't be hard to do as the upper timing belt
> cover is still off. I forgot about the turning over engine by hand
> par,t and then rechecking. Thanks!
You're welcome, let us know what you find.

Signature
Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)