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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / February 2008Battery Voltage ranges
In my Manual - Sienna 06 page 499 I found the following: Battery Voltage checked 20 min after key is removed and 68deg F 12.6--12.8 V Fully charged 12.2--12.4 V Half charged 11.8--12.0 V Discharged These ranges look very tight. Is this correct and realistic? I was looking for a higher fully charged and 10.5 or 11 as discharged. I trust none of what I hear and only half of what I see <grin>. m > In my Manual - Sienna 06 page 499 I found the following: > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > I trust none of what I hear and only half of what I see <grin>. The numbers above are correct. To test the battery properly: 1) Turn on headlights for five mintes. 2) Turn off headlights, wait an additional five minutes. 3) Measure voltage across terminals. Fully charged is about 12.65V. Anything less is not fully-charged. See here for voltage charts and more explanation: http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#ocv_soc and http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#mf_soc  SignatureTegger >> In my Manual - Sienna 06 page 499 I found the following: >> [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] >and >http://jgdarden.com/batteryfaq/carfaq4.htm#mf_soc Excellent web pages. Printed it out. After the headlight test above - what would the max allowable and/or expected voltage drop - assuming 70deg F in all cases? m >>To test the battery properly: >>1) Turn on headlights for five mintes. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > After the headlight test above - what would the max allowable and/or > expected voltage drop - assuming 70deg F in all cases? You mean voltage drop while cranking? Why does it matter? Use your dome light to determine that. SignatureTegger The Unofficial Honda/Acura FAQ www.tegger.com/hondafaq/ Tegger resend last - I got a [Sorry. This message is no longer available.] > Tegger resend last - I got a > > [Sorry. This message is no longer available.] Just did. SignatureTegger >>The numbers above are correct. >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > After the headlight test above - what would the max allowable and/or > expected voltage drop - assuming 70deg F in all cases? You mean voltage drop while cranking? Why does it matter? Use your dome light to determine that. SignatureTegger >>>The numbers above are correct. >>> [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] >You mean voltage drop while cranking? Why does it matter? Use your dome >light to determine that. I'm sorry - perhaps I'm mistaken about something. With the car off one insert the key - to turn on the headlight for 5 min. Then one wait for 5 min and then measure the voltage. Are you saying - intend that must be 12.65v or greater AFTER THE 5 MIN TEST? My 2nd question is - if the battery is good then how much should one expect the voltage to drop (FROM - TO 12.65V) - because the lights were on for 5 min? a. None b .3v c .6v d. ? > I'm sorry - perhaps I'm mistaken about something. > > With the car off one insert the key - to turn on the headlight for 5 > min. You don't need to insert the key, just turn the headlight switch with your hand. > Then one wait for 5 min and then measure the voltage. > Are you saying - intend that must be 12.65v or greater AFTER THE 5 > MIN TEST? Yes. But final voltage is dependent on ambient temperature, of course. > My 2nd question is - if the battery is good then how much should one > expect the voltage to drop (FROM - TO 12.65V) - because the lights [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > c .6v > d. ? "D". Depends on where it started from and what the "surface charge" was. The point of the exercise is to remove the surface charge, which can vary. The only thing that matters is what's left after the surface charge is gone. If you do the test and you get less than 12.65V (or whatever's appropriate for your ambient air temp, then the battery is either not being charged by the alternator, or it is defective/damaged/aged and cannot hold a charge. Bill Darden explains all this on the Battery FAQ page I referenced earlier. Go read his FAQ question on testing the battery. SignatureTegger q/ |
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