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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / February 2008independent shops vs chains
Are independent shops better than chains and dealers for older cars, and why? My experience so far: 1. Chevy dealer - ('95 Prizm is a Chevy, technically). Fixed the problem, but created another minor one, for which I had to return the next day. Slow turnaround, but the dealer paid for the rental while fixing their mistake 2. Independent shop - used once. No complaints. I don't think a tow truck could get to them though. In any case, I live kind of far from it now. 3. Tire store that also fixes stuff - my current alternator problem. Replaced it with a "new" one, charged me $300 for the part alone, because it's really "new". The alternator isn't working properly 3 weeks later. > Are independent shops better than chains and dealers for older cars, > and why? [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > because it's really "new". The alternator isn't working properly 3 > weeks later. I'd prefer to have a mechanic who's been around since before the existence of the car model I wanted fixed. This way, if the car's got any quirks or "gotchas" involved with the repairs, there's a good chance he's heard of them. > Are independent shops better than chains and dealers for older cars, > and why? [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > because it's really "new". The alternator isn't working properly 3 > weeks later. I think the best bet is a good independent shop. If a tow truck can't get to them, that's bad sign. By an independent shop, I mean a real shop, not a mechanic working out of his backyard or garage. When you say a new alternator, why year and model vehicle? The tire store should replace it free. If not, cancel the charge on your credit card. Dealers tend to be expensive. Many chain stores are have excellent managers and mechanics, but there is more turn over. If a shop is really well run, they may take that manager to fix another store that isn't well run. Watch out for shops that try to take your money by fixing unnecessary items. Jeff > When you say a new alternator, why year and model vehicle? It's a '95 Geo Prizm. I paid $300 for the alternator plus (lots of) labor. Then I looked up online that the alternators for this model are usually offered for $90 - $150. The way they explained it later, theirs is somehow qualitatively better ("new" while the cheap ones must be rebuilt/remanufactured/OEM - I forget the exact terms used) >> When you say a new alternator, why year and model vehicle? > [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > theirs is somehow qualitatively better ("new" while the cheap ones > must be rebuilt/remanufactured/OEM - I forget the exact terms used) NAPA has them for $200 to $300. Did they offer you a reman alternator? I doubt the difference between a reman and new alternator will be worth the money on a 14 yr old car. Did they say why it cost so much labor? This should be a simple job. Jeff n.torrey.pi...@gmail.com wrote: > Replaced it with a "new" one, charged me $300 for the part alone, > because it's really "new". The alternator isn't working properly 3 > weeks later. > It's a '95 Geo Prizm. I paid $300 for the alternator plus (lots of) > labor. Then I looked up online that the alternators for this model are > usually offered for $90 - $150. The way they explained it later, > theirs is somehow qualitatively better ("new" while the cheap ones > must be rebuilt/remanufactured/OEM - I forget the exact terms used) If it's brand new, it may be a Chinese knockoff, like the starter motor I once bought -- the starter that would grind just a little tiny bit when its temperature is below 70F. It cost exactly as much as a NAPA or OEM rebuilt/remanufactured, and it wouldn't surprise me if it was inferior, despite its longer warranty. > Are independent shops better than chains and dealers for older cars, > and why? [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > because it's really "new". The alternator isn't working properly 3 > weeks later. In my experience, aftermarket alternators are a hit or miss proposition, especially if you use the auto parts store house brand. The franchised dealer has to have factory trained technicians working, and they are generally the most current and knowledgeable about the brands they sell. Independent shops are a hit or miss proposition. Shops with competent technicians can do a great job on most repairs, especially simple ones like alternator replacements. Other shops just hire parts changers who make excuses as to why their fix didn't work and why you need to follow their next recommended part replacement until the car is fixed. In my experience, tire stores and quick lube chains that fix stuff are the worst bet because the competent technicians will be paid more at an independent shop or dealership so they are less likely to end up at a tire or oil change shop. In any event, the shop that did the work should stand behind their work and fix your car.  SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> 3. Tire store that also fixes stuff - my current alternator problem. >> Replaced it with a "new" one, charged me $300 for the part alone, [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > In my experience, aftermarket alternators are a hit or miss proposition, > especially if you use the auto parts store house brand. Thanks, Ray... while doing the papers the grinding noise I've been hearing turned into what sounded like marbles in a tin can, and then an occasional screech. Looking at the guages, the cooling system was working just fine, while the voltage was down about 2 volts. While this may be drag on the system from a water pump going bad, I'm betting the alternator bearings are shot (Interesting, looking at AutoZone, only one bearing is listed...) Will have a better look today. I can get a 'new' alternator for $80 (remember, I used to work at CarQuest...we dropped one line because of the high failure rate) which will take me <30 mins to replace, or round up some bearings and brushes and rebuild the one I have in about an hour for approx $30. There is a sticker on the side of the alternator that says "Remanufactured". Hmmmm.... >>> 3. Tire store that also fixes stuff - my current alternator problem. >>> Replaced it with a "new" one, charged me $300 for the part alone, [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > > Hmmmm.... The catch with replacing bearings is that they are probably pressed on to the alternator shaft so you'll need a shop press to get the bearing on and off. Brushes are easier to replace. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> Will have a better look today. I can get a 'new' alternator for $80 >> (remember, I used to work at CarQuest...we dropped one line because of the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > off. Brushes are easier to replace. > -- SURPRISE!!!!! Idler pulley... n.torrey.pi...@gmail.com wrote: > Are independent shops better than chains and dealers for older cars, > and why? A 1995 is an older car??? A car isn't old unless it has a carburetor. ;) Look for a place that takes credit cards (easier to get a refund in case of fraud or incompetence), is AAA-approved (AAA requires them but not the customer to abide by their arbitration), and has a completely clean BBB record (www.bbb.org). I would avoid chains, except AAA-approved gas stations, because there's usually no advantage to them -- the mechanics aren't paid better or educated better (often worse), and you'll find that the chain corporation won't help you in case one of their garages fouls up, especially if it's a franchise garage and not company-owned. "Every shop is independently owned" is actually a disclaimer. |
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