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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / February 2008My Camry Failed Inspextion. Code O0401
Hello, My Camry '97 just failed inspection. It is code P0401. 'Exhaust Gas Recirculation Flow Insufficient Detected.' Would you please give me your recommendations. Thanks, Talal Itani > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks, > Talal Itani How many miles are on the car? With the engine idling, apply vacuum to the EGR valve and see if the engine starts to idle roughly or start to die. If that happens, check the EGR position sensor. If the engine does not start to die, check the EGR tube for blockage. Most likely, the EGR tube is blocked with carbon buildup. If that is the case, you can try to dig out some of the carbon or replace the EGR valve and tube.  SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> Hello, >> [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > tube is blocked with carbon buildup. If that is the case, you can try to > dig out some of the carbon or replace the EGR valve and tube. The car has 130,000 miles. Is the EGR tube the metal tube? >>> Hello, >>> [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > The car has 130,000 miles. Is the EGR tube the metal tube? At 130,000 miles, there is a fairly good possibility that the EGR tube is blocked, especially if the car has mostly city miles. The EGR tube is the metal tube that is attached to the EGR valve. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>>> Hello, >>>> [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > blocked, especially if the car has mostly city miles. The EGR tube is the > metal tube that is attached to the EGR valve. How is the tube detached in order to clean it? Are they other parts to clean? If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while clearing it? Thanks. <snipped> > At 130,000 miles, there is a fairly good possibility that the EGR tube is >> blocked, especially if the car has mostly city miles. The EGR tube is [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > clean? If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while > clearing it? Thanks. You did not mention whether you have the 4 or 6 cylinder engine, but the EGR valve looks like this: http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/details/QQToyotaQQCamryQQOE_ServiceQQEGR_Valve QQ19972001QQW0133-1603325.html The EGR valve for the 4 cylinder is pictured but the one for the 6 will look pretty much the same. The EGR valve is attached with 4 bolts - 2 on the inlet and 2 on the outlet. Remove the EGR valve and the metal tube attached to it, and dig out the carbon buildup from inside the EGR and tube with a an old screwdriver or awl. Get out as much as you can and shake out the crumbs. If that doesn't work, replace the EGR valve and tube if they are clogged. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > <snipped> > [quoted text clipped - 17 lines] > shake out the crumbs. If that doesn't work, replace the EGR valve and > tube if they are clogged. While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? > While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I > assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? That is not a problem. The crumbs fall into the exhaust manifold, and eventually go out the tail pipe. As a caveat, it is not likely that the tube needs to be cleaned. It's possible, that is true, but the EGR valve itself is probably worn out. It isn't very expensive, and you may as well replace it since you will take it off to clean the tube out. >> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > isn't very expensive, and you may as well replace it since you will take > it off to clean the tube out. Is the EGR valve the part that attached to the top of the EGR tube? I mean, is it one part, or two parts? Because it sounds to me, that there should be a valve and a sensor. Thanks. >>> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >>> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > mean, is it one part, or two parts? Because it sounds to me, that there > should be a valve and a sensor. Thanks. I'm pretty sure it is all one. Buy the new EGR valve, and use it to determine the screws needed to get the old one off. While it is off, you can snake a coat hanger or equivelent down the tube, but I don't think you will find very much. I have never ever had an EGR valve problem, and one of my brother's had trouble with one a long time ago. He replaced the part, but I don't know what he may have done with the tube. I agree with those that say it might be plugged, but my experience is that none of mine have ever been plugged. If it is plugged, it is easy to clean, but do not stress if you find it is clean already. HOT OFF THE PRESSES I found the EGR valve at napaonline.com for $174 and $194 (4- and 6-cyl, respectively). This changes my approach a bit. There are other parts -- control solenoid, for example -- that are less costly. I would rethink what I would do in the face of a $200 part. I'd take a closer look at the tube, and check the solenoid and sensor. I'm an optomist, and this demands the expensive parts be robust. Assuming this is accurate, the EGR valve itself should be okay. >>>> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >>>> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > I'm an optomist, and this demands the expensive parts be robust. Assuming > this is accurate, the EGR valve itself should be okay. I would not start replacing parts based on the price. I would check the parts and their function first, then replace the part that tests bad. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>>>> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >>>>> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > I would not start replacing parts based on the price. I would check the > parts and their function first, then replace the part that tests bad. Me too. I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off to clean the tube, one may as well replace it (or be ready to). It turns out the EGR is not cheap at all. <snipped> > I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off to > clean the tube, one may as well replace it (or be ready to). It turns out > the EGR is not cheap at all. The problem with driving today's modern vehicles is that they are pretty reliable, and so it is easy to lose track of parts prices. It seems like the only cheap parts on any car nowadays are fuses and light bulbs (other than headlamps). Just picked up a '93 Escort that had been sitting in a friend's driveway for 5 or 6 months. It is going to need a new battery, a bunch of bulbs, and rear shock supports. The hood won't latch and the gear select lever takes a lot of effort to move, hopefully those are just adjustments and cleaning. It barely makes 30 MPH with the engine revving, I'll have to investigate a little further. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) ><snipped> >> I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off to [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] >It barely makes 30 MPH with the engine revving, I'll have to investigate a >little further. A few sticks of dynamite should be good for that Escort.... SignatureScott in Florida >><snipped> >>> I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > > A few sticks of dynamite should be good for that Escort.... I'm hoping that it will last at least until the kids save up enough to buy their own car instead of using my Lexus! SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>><snipped> >>>> I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >I'm hoping that it will last at least until the kids save up enough to buy >their own car instead of using my Lexus! If the '93 still has a timing belt, I'd suggest changing it. My '89 Escort timing belt broke at a fairly consistent 55,000 miles (Ford says change it at 60K). OTOH my '89 Corolla Wagon will go 70K on a timing belt, no sweat.... SignatureScott in Florida >>><snipped> >>>> I had suggested that since the EGR valve was cheap, and had to come off [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] > I'm hoping that it will last at least until the kids save up enough to buy > their own car instead of using my Lexus! If you're the kind of dad who lets his kids drive his Lexus...........would you care to adopt me? <snipped> >> I'm hoping that it will last at least until the kids save up enough to >> buy their own car instead of using my Lexus! > If you're the kind of dad who lets his kids drive his > Lexus...........would you care to adopt me? Sorry, 4 is my limit. My daughter is the cleverest at getting the Lexus - she waits until the other cars are all gone or she says she needs the nav to figure out where she is going. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >"mack" wrote... ><snipped> >>> I'm hoping that it will last at least until the kids save up enough to [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >she waits until the other cars are all gone or she says she needs the nav to >figure out where she is going. Sounds like your daughter needs some "Tough Love" - When she tries the Puppy Eyes Act introduce her to the Boy Scout Orienteering curriculum. "You are here - you need to get there - here's a good map and a compass, figure it out." If you want to be thorough toss in a pocket altimeter, a pocket weather radio so she can get the barometric correction, and the region's USGS 7.5 minute topo maps. And always have a good map-book in the car - Do they have Thomas Guides for New York and Joisey? (Just Looked - Nope, still primarily Metro California, LA and SFO and environs. But they're starting to go north and east a bit, Phoenix AZ, Tuscon AZ, King and Snohomish Counties WA, etc.) --<< Bruce >>-- >>"mack" wrote... > [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > the Puppy Eyes Act introduce her to the Boy Scout Orienteering > curriculum. LOL! She learned from one of the best - her mother. When I give my wife directions somewhere, she insists on "left" and "right," not "east" and "west." Never mind that the streets in the Chicago area are pretty much lined up east-west and north-south, and if you miss a turn, the left turn becomes a right turn. I don't have any trouble teaching orienteering to a 10 year old Boy Scout, but those proven techniques don't work with my wife. > "You are here - you need to get there - here's a good map and a > compass, figure it out." If you want to be thorough toss in a pocket > altimeter, a pocket weather radio so she can get the barometric > correction, and the region's USGS 7.5 minute topo maps. Oddly enough, my daughter doesn't seem to have too much trouble finding her way around in one of the other cars that doesn't have the navigation feature. > And always have a good map-book in the car - Do they have Thomas > Guides for New York and Joisey? [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > --<< Bruce >>-- We keep a Rand McNally book that is the same format as the Thomas Guides - other than the small fonts, they just as easy as the navigation system. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > The problem with driving today's modern vehicles is that they are pretty > reliable, and so it is easy to lose track of parts prices. It seems like [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > cleaning. It barely makes 30 MPH with the engine revving, I'll have to > investigate a little further. My crystal ball shows a clutch in your future. >> The problem with driving today's modern vehicles is that they are pretty >> reliable, and so it is easy to lose track of parts prices. It seems like [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > My crystal ball shows a clutch in your future. Possibly worse. It has an automatic transmission. The friend says that the car ran fine before he parked it, so I'm hoping that it is just an adjustment somewhere. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>> The problem with driving today's modern vehicles is that they are pretty >>> reliable, and so it is easy to lose track of parts prices. It seems like [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >car ran fine before he parked it, so I'm hoping that it is just an >adjustment somewhere. My '89 Escort had to have the transmission rebuilt three times in 180,000 miles..... SignatureScott in Florida <snipped> >>Possibly worse. It has an automatic transmission. The friend says that >>the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > My '89 Escort had to have the transmission rebuilt three times in 180,000 > miles..... Thanks for the words of encouragement! I guess I need to spend some time under the hood :-( SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >>> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > mean, is it one part, or two parts? Because it sounds to me, that there > should be a valve and a sensor. Thanks. Unfortunately, Autozone does not have an online repair guide for the 1997 Camry. They do have a guide for the 1996 and earlier Camrys, and the illustrations at least show you what the parts look like and where to look for them. In some applications, the tube is part of the EGR valve and in others, the tube is a separate part that is attached to the EGR valve. I believe that the tube is a separate part from the EGR valve in the Camry. As Bruce suggested, after you remove the tube from the car, spray some carburetor cleaner into the tube and use a piece of solid #12 or #10 electrical wire or a coat hanger wire to dig out the carbon buildup. Also part of the EGR system are a EGR exhaust gas temperature sensor and an EGR valve position sensor. Unplug the wires from the sensors and vacuum hoses from the EGR valve before removing the EGR valve from the engine. Have you tested to see if the EGR valve is working yet? SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>>> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >>>> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > Have you tested to see if the EGR valve is working yet? I did not test the EGR valve. How do I do that? <snipped> >> Have you tested to see if the EGR valve is working yet? > > I did not test the EGR valve. How do I do that? I posted this before, perhaps you missed it. Apply vacuum to the EGR valve to open the EGR valve while the engine is idling and see if the engine starts to run poorly or starts to die. If the engine starts to run poorly and starts to die, then the EGR valve is working properly and the valve and tube are not clogged. The next thing to check would be the EGR position sensor if the EGR tests OK. Anticipating your next question, you can apply vacuum to the EGR valve with a Mighty-Vac tool or you can bypass the vacuum switching valve and EGR modulator and plug the vacuum line directly into the EGR valve. If the engine runs pretty much the same when you apply vacuum, then the valve is not opening or the valve and/or tube are clogged. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> I did not test the EGR valve. How do I do that? > [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > If the engine runs pretty much the same when you apply vacuum, then the > valve is not opening or the valve and/or tube are clogged. This is telling me that I have to take it to a mechanic. I do not know how to do this stuff. >>> I did not test the EGR valve. How do I do that? >> [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > This is telling me that I have to take it to a mechanic. I do not know > how to do this stuff. Unfortunately, not all mechanics know how to do this stuff either. If you are in the U.S., take it to a Toyota dealer or shop with ASE certified technicians, or look at the instructions at autozone for the 1996 Camry (different, but close enough to get the idea of how to check). SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) No, the 4cyl DOES NOT have a EGR lift sensor. It uses the less reliable MAP vacuum drop and doesn't always catch low flows. Looks like you got lucky! The carbon will blow out the exhuast pipe. As for intake it may be a small buildup in the small egr hole on the side of the manifold shouldn't be a problem. > Is the EGR valve the part that attached to the top of the EGR tube? I mean, > is it one part, or two parts? Because it sounds to me, that there should be > a valve and a sensor. Thanks. >> While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I >> assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > isn't very expensive, and you may as well replace it since you will take > it off to clean the tube out. How do you know that it is not likely that the tube needs to be cleaned? SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> <snipped> >> [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > While cleaning the tube, won't the crumbs come down into the tube? I > assumed that I remove detach the tube from the valve, right? Remove the EGR valve and EGR tube from the vehicle, then remove the tube from the EGR valve, then clean. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) Look at Figure 13 of Autozone''s free online repair guide, if you have 5SFE (4cyl): http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/13/eb/25/0900823d8013eb25/repai rInfoPages.htm Look at Figure 21-25 if you have 1MZFE (6cyl). They didn't mention a whole lot about the EGR valve itself other than to remove it for cleaning if stuffed with carbon, but if you click on the figure you can view a larger one. Just remove the nuts/bolts holding the egr valve in place. If the tube from the exhaust pipe is blocked, as many owners had reported, you can use a discarded electrical cord on a power drill to make your own power rooter. Also blow clean the vacuum modulator's filter under it's top cap, they don't sell the filter pad by itself, so don't damage it. Your local parts store will carry Haynes repair manual if you need it. Use throttle body cleaner like: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=137 Just don't subject the rubber diaphragm to the solvent for too long. > How is the tube detached in order to clean it? Are they other parts to > clean? If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while > clearing it? Thanks. > Look at Figure 13 of Autozone''s free online repair guide, if you have > 5SFE (4cyl): [quoted text clipped - 20 lines] >> clean? If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while >> clearing it? Thanks. I don't want to step on anyones toes here. If it's a 4cyl. get some "Seafoam" in the spraycan with a straw ( I like to tape the straw in place ) then disconnect the pvc hose , start the car up and spray into the hose. It will directly hit the egr valve and it'll clean what sludge off of the egr. there will be some smoke coming out the exhaust. Thats a good thing, it's cleaning it. If the valve isn't working properly. I suggest a new one from Rockauto.com for $126. Take a look there's a picture , it'll give you a good idea of where the line that extends to it goes. In any case good luck. >> Look at Figure 13 of Autozone''s free online repair guide, if you have >> 5SFE (4cyl): [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > clean what sludge off of the egr. there will be some smoke coming out the > exhaust. Thats a good thing, it's cleaning it. How does the Seafoam go directly to the EGR valve from the PVC hose? Something sprayed into the PVC hose would normally have to pass through the throttle body, intake manifold, and combustion chamber before some gets drawn through the EGR tube and valve. The stuff must be pretty potent if it will clean out a blocked EGR system. Seafoam's web site mentions that it will clean EGR systems but doesn't explain how it works. I've read several posts from people who say that Seafoam works well, although I do not have direct experience with it. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >>> Look at Figure 13 of Autozone''s free online repair guide, if you have >>> 5SFE (4cyl): [quoted text clipped - 36 lines] > I've read several posts from people who say that Seafoam works well, > although I do not have direct experience with it. In a 4cly.. The direct spray into the opening of the pvc hose would go across to hit the Egr valve. Seafoam works well while soaking for a period of time. Then ulimately it would be sent out of the intake immediately. The pvc hose is directly in front of the Egr valve. Seafoam is a good cleaner for throttle bodies also allowing them to soak & to scub with an old toothbrush. I had discovered it through Toyotanation.com. They have a search that could answer your questions. It does many different things. It works suprisingly well. >>>> Look at Figure 13 of Autozone''s free online repair guide, if you have >>>> 5SFE (4cyl): [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] > could answer your questions. It does many different things. It works > suprisingly well. I guess I'll have to check it out if I ever have a problem with carbon buildup somewhere. I clean throttle bodies with carb cleaner and a paper towel, it has worked well up to now. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > How many miles are on the car? With the engine idling, apply vacuum to > the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > is blocked with carbon buildup. If that is the case, you can try to dig > out some of the carbon or replace the EGR valve and tube. Today I removed the EGR valve, there was some carbon, but not much. There was only a think layer of carbon. I cleaned it up. I did reset the light, and now waiting to see if the light comes back. If the light comes back, does it necessarily mean that a new EGR valve will solve it? Thanks. >> How many miles are on the car? With the engine idling, apply vacuum to >> the [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > back, does it necessarily mean that a new EGR valve will solve it? > Thanks. Did you also clean the tube between the exhaust manifold and the EGR valve? The tube, especially where it connects to the exhaust manifold, may be clogged and you will get the same trouble code. If the check engine light illuminates again, then you should check the trouble codes again because it is possible that the same or a different fault is causing the light to come on. If you get the same trouble code (P0401), then the diagnostic process is pretty much the same. A replacement EGR valve may or may not solve the problem because the EGR valve may or may not be the cause of the check engine light. If you are willing to replace a part even though the parts replacement may not solve the problem, then you can replace the EGR valve. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) You really need to borrow a MityVac vacuum pump/gauge from Autozone (free with deposit) to diagnose the system. The problem may be insufficient vacuum to open the EGR valve and not the valve itself. So the EGR valve itself may be fine and if so you shouldn't spend nearly $200 to replace it. I don't believe in swapping parts to fix a problem, because it's easily turns into a good way to waste money. If you borrow the MityVac then you can do two things and try to isolate the problem to the valve or modulator side: 1. Connect it to the EGR valve's vacuum port. Pull vacuum with the MityVac while the engine is idling. The engine should stall. This will easily confirm that the valve is working. 2. Connect it to the hose that goes to the EGR valve's vacuum port and measure the vacuum with the engine warm. Do you read increasing engine vacuum at the hose when opening throttle past 2500 rpm? > Today I removed the EGR valve, there was some carbon, but not much. There > was only a think layer of carbon. I cleaned it up. I did reset the light, > and now waiting to see if the light comes back. If the light comes back, > does it necessarily mean that a new EGR valve will solve it? Thanks. > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks, > Talal Itani did they not tell you what you needed to have done? http://www.obd-codes.com/trouble_codes/generic/p0401-insufficient-exhaust-gas-re circulation-flow-egr.php > did they not tell you what you needed to have done? I think it was the emissions inspectors who told him there is a problem, not the dealer or repair shop. >> did they not tell you what you needed to have done? > > I think it was the emissions inspectors who told him there is a problem, > not the dealer or repair shop. inspectors should be able to tell him what the prob usually is > inspectors should be able to tell him what the prob usually is In some states, the inspectors are independent organizations that are not allowed to make repairs (they only do inspections). In that case, the inspector probably would not know, nor would he/she be allowed to give such information to the consumer even if they did know. If the inspection was done in a garage where they can also fix the problems, then they probably would have already told him what it takes to do the repairs. >> inspectors should be able to tell him what the prob usually is > > In some states, the inspectors are independent organizations that are not > allowed to make repairs (they only do inspections). In that case, the > inspector probably would not know, nor would he/she be allowed to give > such information to the consumer even if they did know. its that way here... and when my 93 failed... they told me exactly what i have to have done, gave me papers that said what i needed and then told me to find a place "Don't Taze Me, Bro!" ... > "Mark A" ... >> "Don't Taze Me, Bro!" ... [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > have to have done, gave me papers that said what i needed and then told me > to find a place In New Jersey, for one example, it is as Mark says exactly. Tomes > "Don't Taze Me, Bro!" ... >> "Mark A" ... [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > In New Jersey, for one example, it is as Mark says exactly. > Tomes I am in Texas. The inspection report failed, because of code P0401. And, the 'Check Engine Light' has been on for some time. I should not have taken the car for inspection before taking care of the Engine Light. How is the tube detached in order to clean it? Are they other parts to clean? If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while clearing it? Thanks. > I am in Texas. The inspection report failed, because of code P0401. And, > the 'Check Engine Light' has been on for some time. I should not have > taken the car for inspection before taking care of the Engine Light. How > is the tube detached in order to clean it? Are they other parts to clean? > If it is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while clearing it? > Thanks. In most states, if your check engine light is on, they will not pass your vehicle. You are lucky that they even bothered to check the code. "Mark A" ... > "Talal Itani" ... >> I am in Texas. The inspection report failed, because of code P0401. [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > In most states, if your check engine light is on, they will not pass your > vehicle. You are lucky that they even bothered to check the code. Heh, Heh... I tried to get over on the NJ inspection this way and it did not work. I pulled the EFT (? - if I am remembering it correctly) fuse to reset the codes and then pulled it right in. I had a code and was trying to fake out the system by having it run through before the code reset itself and the inspection picked that up. It failed solely because the system "was not ready". I ended up faking myself out. Tomes > "Mark A" ... >> "Talal Itani" ... [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > system "was not ready". I ended up faking myself out. > Tomes ECU Fuse according to another post here..... True, MIL light means "fail" in many states. So you know that going in. You can clear the MIL light by pulling the ECU fuse (5amp? in the engine bay, driver side fuse box) for a minute after you clean the parts. But don't take it in for inspections right afterwards because in some states you cannot pass the inspection if some on-board diagnostics monitors didn't complete their runs (the diagnostics monitors also do the inspections for the inspectors). Autozon'e free OBD-II reader service should tell you if these are all completed. On Feb 24, 7:56 am, "Talal Itani" <tit...@verizon.net> wrote:> I am in Texas. The inspection report failed, because of code P0401. And, > the 'Check Engine Light' has been on for some time. I should not have taken > the car for inspection before taking care of the Engine Light. How is the > tube detached in order to clean it? Are they other parts to clean? If it > is a blocked tube, how deep down do I need to go, while clearing it? > Thanks. > Hello, > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Thanks, > Talal Itani Follow Ray's advice and check the EGR, but also, I had a Tercel with this same problem and had to replace a couple hoses... |
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