Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / April 2008

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

1993 Prizm (Toyota Corolla) Will not start

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
DearCheify@gmail.com - 08 Apr 2008 01:34 GMT
I will keep it simple.

I had a spark under the dash while removing the radio (a wire touched
the mount that holds the "Circuit Openening Relay/Fuel pump Relay),
with the key in the "Accessory" poistion.  The radio stopped working,
the fuse did not blow to the radio, it is kind of fried.

The car will not start, it turns over (strong):
    I am getting no power to the fuel pump, no spark to the spark
plugs, I am getting power to the coil.  I have read out the relay
mentioned above aswell as the EFI relay.  I have hooked a scan tool up
with no luck, I get an error reading "Check Connection" error.  Oh,
and I almost forgot the most important part, my check engine light
does not come on at all, the bulb is not blown.  I have swapped out
the ECM, I did get it from one of those online junk yards that
confirmed it was tested.  (I know it is possible that it might be
junk, they have a money back policy)  Can anyone tell me what could
cause the car to not start based on what I have discribed.  I have
been thinking about the timing module, but I am not sire that it will
keep the fuel pump from powering up.  I have also thought that the ECM
might not be getting power because of a blown fuse/relay, but I can
not figure out which relay if any, that I should check.  Please help
Jeff Strickland - 08 Apr 2008 02:12 GMT
I don't know your car specifically, but there are two or three fuse boxes,
typically one under the dash in the footwell above or beside the clutch
pedal, and another in the engine bay.

Given the arc welding session you described, I'd bet you blew a fuse that
you have not found yet.

The Check light failure says the computer is not getting power. The other
symptoms also say that the computer is not getting power.

>I will keep it simple.
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> might not be getting power because of a blown fuse/relay, but I can
> not figure out which relay if any, that I should check.  Please help
johngdole@hotmail.com - 08 Apr 2008 04:48 GMT
I don't think it needs to be as complex as you first start out.
Autozone's free guide doesn't include schematics for the Corolla, but
it's useful for other referneces. You can go to Pep Boys and check the
Haynes manual or use the online 93 Camry as a guide.

Check the 15A EFI fuse and 100A ALT link, I think those are upstream
of the fuel pump relay, at least on a Camry.

http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/16/ad/e4/0900823d8016ade4/repai
rInfoPages.htm


On Apr 7, 5:34 pm, DearChe...@gmail.com wrote:
> I will keep it simple.
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> might not be getting power because of a blown fuse/relay, but I can
> not figure out which relay if any, that I should check.  Please help
Ray O - 08 Apr 2008 05:44 GMT
>I will keep it simple.
>
[quoted text clipped - 18 lines]
> might not be getting power because of a blown fuse/relay, but I can
> not figure out which relay if any, that I should check.  Please help

What do you mean when you say that you "read out the relay?"

How did you check the circuit opening relay?  If you used a scan tool, the
best way to check a relay is with a multimeter, checking both the control
and controlled side of the relay.

Start by checking all of the fuses, fusible links, and relays, including the
one under the driver's side of the dashboard and the one under the hood.

The circuit opening relay controls the fuel pump while the engine is
cranking.  If it is bad, the fuel pump will not be energized.
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Tony - 08 Apr 2008 06:31 GMT
> <DearChe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I did a cintunuity check with it energized and unenergized, you know
with a volt meter
Ray O - 08 Apr 2008 06:53 GMT
On Apr 8, 12:44 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> <DearChe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I did a cintunuity check with it energized and unenergized, you know
with a volt meter
************
With the relay energized, did you have continuity between the two terminals
on the controlled side?

Is there 12 volts at the socket for the circuit opening relay when the
engine is cranking?

When you got the spark under the dash, you probably blew a fuse or fusible
link somewhere.  Did you check every fuse?
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Tony - 08 Apr 2008 07:10 GMT
> <DearChe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 40 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I did use a multi meter, I checked it while energized and
unenergized.  You are to addressing the no spark issue, I feel that
they are related.  I have pretty much ruled out the circuit opening
relay.  What one component can cause both symptoms: no spark no power
to the fuel pump?  And also remember, my check engine light does not
work, the circuit opening relay can not cause that.  What do you think
about it being the timing module?
Ray O - 09 Apr 2008 05:46 GMT
On Apr 8, 12:44 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> <DearChe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 41 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

I did use a multi meter, I checked it while energized and
unenergized.  You are to addressing the no spark issue, I feel that
they are related.  I have pretty much ruled out the circuit opening
relay.  What one component can cause both symptoms: no spark no power
to the fuel pump?  And also remember, my check engine light does not
work, the circuit opening relay can not cause that.  What do you think
about it being the timing module?
*************
It would help me help you a lot if you stuck to one thread.  It took a while
for me to catch on that you also posted about the spark under the dash and
whether the ECM is good.

I apologize if I go over some of the same questions over and over, but it
helps if I am clear on what you are finding and how you tested or checked
something, and it helps if you answer my questions directly.

When you say that there is no power to the fuel pump, did you check for
voltage at the fuel pump connector while cranking the engine?  Just having
the ignition switch in the on position does not provide power to the fuel
pump.

When you say that the check engine light does not work, is this with the
ignition switch is on with the motor off?

I can think of three things off the top of my head that would cause no power
at the fuel pump and no spark - the EFI main relay and fuse and the ECM.

You mentioned in the other thread that you got a spark under the dash when
you were removing the radio.  Is the factory wiring harness cut or damaged?

Did you find what sparked and repair the exposed wire?
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Tony - 09 Apr 2008 14:22 GMT
> On Apr 8, 12:44 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 64 lines]
> the ignition switch in the on position does not provide power to the fuel
> pump.

> When you say that the check engine light does not work, is this with the
> ignition switch is on with the motor off?
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ray O

I am pleased that you are trying to help me, so please do not think
that I am being short with you, I am not meaning to sound that way.

Yes I have checked for voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, I am
not even getting the initial voltage at the pump when I first turn the
key to Accessories.

The check engine light never comes on, under any conditions.  It used
to when I turned the key to on without the engine running

You mentioned the EFI relay and fuse, I have checked those and they
are good.  I do feel that the ECM must have a power source that has a
fuse or something in it that is bad, because the likely hood of
putting two ECM's in with the identical problem are slim.

The factory wire harness is not cut, it is perfectly intact.

I did find the exposed wire, and have corrected it.  But as you can
see, I am way passed being concerned about that wire, I have removed
the radio from the car.

Ironically, my dad is coming to visit, and he has a 97 Toyota
Corolla.  What we plan on doing is swapping relays from his to mine
until it hopefully starts.  His an automatic, so swapping the ECM if
we were to get that far is out of the question.  But the relays should
all be the same.

I will keep you posted,

T
ep45guy@yahoo.com - 09 Apr 2008 15:45 GMT
I don't want to be 'difficult' but several people, including Ray, have
suggested that you need to check all the fuses, fusible links, and
relays, and you seem to be resisting that suggestion.  This is clearly
a pain on a Toyota since there seem to be fuses and relays all over
the place (and maybe fusible links) - but your problem could still be
as simple as a blown fuse.  Also, as Ray has suggested, maybe you are
not getting power to one of those relays that you have been working
with.  While I can understand your frustration I would think the way
to locate this problem is to proceed step by step - it would also help
if you had a wiring diagram.  I also have some doubts abt swapping
relays from a later car into an earlier car unless they you are REALLY
REALLY sure they are, in fact, the same relay.

If I had to suggest anything 'concrete' it would be that you are on
the right track but you need to be careful not to decide in advance
what your 'problem' may be and go step by step and be VERY careful.

Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
Ray O - 10 Apr 2008 04:32 GMT
<snipped>

I am pleased that you are trying to help me, so please do not think
that I am being short with you, I am not meaning to sound that way.
************
No problem, I didn't take it that way at all.  I have become used to working
with dealer service personnel who have become frustrated when working on a
problem, and most of my success came from a fresh set of eyes, a systematic
approach to problem-solving, keeping in mind that an engine needs air, fuel,
and a source of ignition to run, remembering that E = I x R, and that there
are very few one-of-a kindd problems on Toyotas.
************

Yes I have checked for voltage at the fuel pump while cranking, I am
not even getting the initial voltage at the pump when I first turn the
key to Accessories.
************
There should not be any voltage at the fuel pump when you turn the ignition
switch to accessory or to the on position.  The only time there should be
voltage at the fuel pump is when the engine is cranking or running.

***********

The check engine light never comes on, under any conditions.  It used
to when I turned the key to on without the engine running

You mentioned the EFI relay and fuse, I have checked those and they
are good.  I do feel that the ECM must have a power source that has a
fuse or something in it that is bad, because the likely hood of
putting two ECM's in with the identical problem are slim.
***********
The EFI main relay and fuse supply power to the ECM.  With the ignition in
the on position, make sure that both the supply and load terminals of the
EFI fuse have 12 volts.

With the ignition in the on position, make sure that the control side of the
EFI main relay socket in the junction box has 12 volts.

************

The factory wire harness is not cut, it is perfectly intact.

I did find the exposed wire, and have corrected it.  But as you can
see, I am way passed being concerned about that wire, I have removed
the radio from the car.

*************
That is excellent news.  I have seen people cut wire harnesses, and a
problem almost always crops up some time.

**************

Ironically, my dad is coming to visit, and he has a 97 Toyota
Corolla.  What we plan on doing is swapping relays from his to mine
until it hopefully starts.  His an automatic, so swapping the ECM if
we were to get that far is out of the question.  But the relays should
all be the same.

I will keep you posted,

T

***********
OEM relays should have a part number screened somewhere on the relay case.
Make sure part numbers match before swapping.  Some relays in your car have
the same part number, so you can also swap relays from your own car.

Good luck!
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Tony - 10 Apr 2008 05:07 GMT
> On Apr 8, 12:44 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
>
[quoted text clipped - 81 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ray O

You are "The Man".  I figured out why the car would not start.  So let
me spell it out for you.  So my dad shows up, who by all rights is an
awesome shade tree mechanic, he swaps all of the relays that are under
the hood, checks all of the fuses; when I got home from work today he
was in the process of taking the coil off of my car to put his in, we
checked it, no good.  Then we swapped the timing module, no good.  So
I decide to start swapping the relays that are on the drivers side
kick panel, nothing.  So then when putting my dads relays back in his
drivers side kick panel, I notice that he seems to have a fuse in a
place that I do not.  Ahhhhhh, the ECU fuse is missing in my car.  So
I stick a fuse in, and wala, the car starts, DEH DEH DEH!!!!  The way
I figure it happened is like this.  When I got the spark under my
dash, I fried the Circuit Opening Relay but did not know it.  SO what
I did after the spark was assumed that I had blown a fuse.  So I
checked all of the fuses and put them back, But where I went wrong is
that when I pulled the ECU fuse out to check it, I stuck it in the
slot next to where it came from.  So after a little bit of reading the
Haynes manual I decide that I need to get a new Circuit Openening
Relay.  So I get the new relay and the car still does not start, Hmmm
must be because the ECU is not getting any power because the stinking
fuse was missing.  LOL.  I can not beleive the trouble that I put
myself through over a .99 fuse.  The plus is, that I have a bunch of
extra relays (cost $0.00) and an extra ECM (cost $47.50).  And I
learned a whole lot about my daughters car.  I would like to thank you
and the others that took time to see me through my oversight.  Thanks
guys
Ray O - 10 Apr 2008 05:20 GMT
On Apr 9, 12:46 am, "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom> wrote:
> "Tony" <DearChe...@gmail.com> wrote in message
>
[quoted text clipped - 87 lines]
>
> - Show quoted text -

Ray O

You are "The Man".  I figured out why the car would not start.  So let
me spell it out for you.  So my dad shows up, who by all rights is an
awesome shade tree mechanic, he swaps all of the relays that are under
the hood, checks all of the fuses; when I got home from work today he
was in the process of taking the coil off of my car to put his in, we
checked it, no good.  Then we swapped the timing module, no good.  So
I decide to start swapping the relays that are on the drivers side
kick panel, nothing.  So then when putting my dads relays back in his
drivers side kick panel, I notice that he seems to have a fuse in a
place that I do not.  Ahhhhhh, the ECU fuse is missing in my car.  So
I stick a fuse in, and wala, the car starts, DEH DEH DEH!!!!  The way
I figure it happened is like this.  When I got the spark under my
dash, I fried the Circuit Opening Relay but did not know it.  SO what
I did after the spark was assumed that I had blown a fuse.  So I
checked all of the fuses and put them back, But where I went wrong is
that when I pulled the ECU fuse out to check it, I stuck it in the
slot next to where it came from.  So after a little bit of reading the
Haynes manual I decide that I need to get a new Circuit Openening
Relay.  So I get the new relay and the car still does not start, Hmmm
must be because the ECU is not getting any power because the stinking
fuse was missing.  LOL.  I can not beleive the trouble that I put
myself through over a .99 fuse.  The plus is, that I have a bunch of
extra relays (cost $0.00) and an extra ECM (cost $47.50).  And I
learned a whole lot about my daughters car.  I would like to thank you
and the others that took time to see me through my oversight.  Thanks
guys

*******
Tony,

You are very welcome!  Thank you for sharing the results, and I'm glad to
hear that the car is back on the road!
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2010 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.