'88 Supra: Problem removing the driveshaft?

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hachiroku ハチロク - 23 May 2008 15:19 GMT

Looking at the driveshaft, there appears to be a small problem. This car
uses a 2-piece driveshaft; a front 'intermediate' shaft, a center carrier/
bearing, and then the rear shaft. The rear shaft is held in with 8 bolts,
4 bolts attaching it to the differential, and 4 bolts attaching it to a
sleeve that mates to splines from the front shaft through the carrier.
The front shaft has 4 bolts attaching it to the transmission output
shaft, and then the splined shaft that passes through the center carrier.
The instructions say to start at the diff, remove the 4 bolts, then
remove the center carrier, and then slide the front shaft out of the
transmission.

The center carrier has a snapped off bolt; it is held onto the car with
one bolt. We can probably either remove this or drill through it and tap
new threads into it, but I am nervous about removing the center carrier
for fear of snapping the other bolt and rendering the car inoperable.

http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/PR/PR_003.gif

And I now see I was wrong. There aren't 4 bolts on the front shaft; in
order to remove it, the center carrier needs to come out.

I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today and for
the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider' (U-
joint) without removing the center carrier?

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Ph@Boy - 23 May 2008 22:35 GMT

> Looking at the driveshaft, there appears to be a small problem. This car
> uses a 2-piece driveshaft; a front 'intermediate' shaft, a center carrier/
[quoted text clipped - 20 lines]
> the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider' (U-
> joint) without removing the center carrier?

You have to remove it to get the intermediate shaft out. I think that's
why they said to start at the differential and work forward. Drop the
rear shaft from the differential, slide it out, remove the center
bearing and take the intermediate out. It's always better to get the
shafts out to work on, on a press.

I would as I mentioned before, mark the shafts for matching. Even
getting as picky as marking to which exact spline tooth the mating yoke
spline fits on. I use a fine point scribe. Make good marks. Don't get
the yokes mixed up when all is apart. They might be the same part
(flange yokes) so mark them good.

As far as removing that snapped off bolt. If you can grab a bit of it
try using a torch to heat around it first and then work inward to the
stud. You might have to get it cherry red to back it out. It's kind of
trial and error, a bit of experience helps.

If you have to drill it out, use a carbide drill, centerpunch the stud
first, drill it, and try an easy out. They are always a pain.

Good luck!

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hachiroku - 23 May 2008 23:38 GMT

>> I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today and
>> for the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider'
[quoted text clipped - 21 lines]
>
> Good luck!

Thanks! Yeah, this is what I thought. And the TSRM says to mark
everything: which spline, how the rear shaft attaches to the diff, etc.
And I think I can understand why after getting under there with the Lube
this morning and seeing the weights attached to the shaft!

Hopefully that bolt won't be too stubborn and come out. I ain't holding
my breath...

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Tegger - 24 May 2008 01:39 GMT

=?iso-2022-kr?q?=1B=24=29Chachiroku_=0E+O+A+m+/=0F?= <Trueno@ae86.GTS>
wrote in news:pan.2008.06.01.14.33.53@ae86.GTS:

> I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today and
> for the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider'
> (U- joint) without removing the center carrier?

Forget penetrant; it's useless.

What is astonishingly effective is heat.

Heat up each bolt in turn good and hot (doesn't have to be cherry red), let
them cool, then try removing them again. What I find works wonders is
spraying water on each bolt in turn to quickly cool them. The thermal shock
seems to very effectively fracture the rust seal that locks everything
together. You will probably find you will now also be able to drive out
that broken stub with a hammer and sharp drift.

And why wouldn't you just drop the center bearing? It's easy enough.

Signature

Tegger

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Hachiroku ハチロク - 24 May 2008 04:19 GMT

>> I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today and
>> for the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front 'Spider' (U-
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
>
> And why wouldn't you just drop the center bearing? It's easy enough.

I'm afraid of snapping the other one and rendering the car unusable...

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Tegger - 25 May 2008 03:30 GMT

=?iso-2022-jp?q?Hachiroku_=1B$B%O%A%m%=2F=1B=28B?= <Trueno@ae86.GTS>
wrote in news:5PLZj.48$QW.14@trndny04:

>>> I'm going to start soaking all the bolts in lubricating oil today
>>> and for the next week. Anybody see any way to replace the front
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
>
> I'm afraid of snapping the other one and rendering the car unusable...

Oh, the broken bolt is holding the center bearing in place. Heat therefore
isn't practical unless you strip the interior for fear of setting fire to
the carpets.

Here's a tip Ive also had luck with: TIGHTEN the bolt slightly before
loosening it. And even if you snap the head off, you can still drill out
the remnant.

Signature

Tegger

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Hachiroku ハチロク - 25 May 2008 17:53 GMT

>> I'm afraid of snapping the other one and rendering the car unusable...
>
> Oh, the broken bolt is holding the center bearing in place. Heat therefore
> isn't practical unless you strip the interior for fear of setting fire to
> the carpets.

Ya know, that's what I was just thinking this morning! No, we don't want
to burn the carpets. I know someone that did just that!

And the bolt isn't holding anythin, the head is snapped right down into
the threads!

> Here's a tip Ive also had luck with: TIGHTEN the bolt slightly before
> loosening it. And even if you snap the head off, you can still drill out
> the remnant.

I usually soak them with penetrating oil, and then tighten and loosen
slowly, trying not to heat the bolt too much (that leads to snapping...)

Works about 75% of the time. the other 25%....<SNAP!>

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Ray O - 24 May 2008 03:13 GMT

Follow TeGGeR's advice on removing the bolts. If you do not have an
acetylene torch, try MAPP gas. Matching is very important, and pay
attention to the orientation of the U-joints.

AFAIK, just follow the FSM for sequencing.

Signature

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

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