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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / June 2008A floor jack's STEEL WHEELS
Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of a white, chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was ground steel extracted from the wheels by the heavy weight of the car as the jack rolled forward on the concrete ground while lifting the car. The substance looked a little like chalk scrawled on a concrete street. I think next time I'll lay a thin piece of wood or particle board down on the floor for the jack to roll forward on as it lifts the car. Using a wooden runway probably isn't keeping with the rules of floor jack operation, but I want the steel wheels to last. > Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton > Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Using a wooden runway probably isn't keeping with the rules of > floor jack operation, but I want the steel wheels to last. It's the portland cement in the concrete on the surface that is being damaged, not the steel wheels. You can take a metal punch or chisel and scrape it on cement to observe the same on a smaller scale. On a larger scale it does the same when you drive a dozer on concrete. The tracks scrape the surface quite badly leaving the white marks, especially when turning. Your thought to protect it is a good plan. I don't have to do it often but I use sheets of particle board when working on tracked equipment rolling on a concrete floor that is six inches thick and reinforced. A couple of times can ruin the boards but the floor surface is saved for the most part. Even a small Cat dozer can weigh twelve tons. Ph@tBoy wrote: > It's the portland cement in the concrete on the surface that > is being damaged, not the steel wheels. ======== That's great news! Better the parking garage's concrete floor than the Michelin's wheels :-) I love this floor jack but it's a bear to lug around: 90 pounds to lift it in and out of the car's trunk. (My apartment building's contract doesn't allow working on the car in the building's parking lot :-( It wouldn't be so bad lifting up the jack, but there isn't a good place to grip it near the casters. Plus during the summer, I usually stop weight-lifting and begin running, so my biceps and triceps aren't what they were 6 months ago when I last lifted the jack. It was easy to lift then, but much harder now. If you need a good, reliable floor jack, Sam's Club is selling the Michelin for $65--best cheap one I've seen anywhere. Built_Well <Built_Well_Toyota@hotmail.com> wrote in article <b4e043c4-829a-4823-a307-31f122c68d1a@e39g2000hsf.googlegroups.com>... --best cheap one I've seen > anywhere. Now, THERE's a classic oxymoron....... If you need a good, reliable floor jack, Sam's Club is selling the Michelin for $65--best cheap one I've seen anywhere. ---------------- Uh..have you 'seen' the ones in harbor freight..? Half the cost of yours... >> Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton >> Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] >couple of times can ruin the boards but the floor surface is saved for >the most part. Even a small Cat dozer can weigh twelve tons. Trying to protect the concrete is an unsafe idea. The reason why these jacks use steel wheels is so they will roll easily on concrete. When you jack up a car, the jack has to move to compensate for the shifting lift saddle. Placing a piece of wood under the jack's wheels will increase the friction to the point where it's moving, or trying to move, the car instead of the jack. You could end up with a very unstable lift that could damage the jack, the car or you. Although the powder is very noticeable, brush it away and try to feel any groove the wheels have cut in the concrete. You won't be able to find any, it really doesn't do any great amount of damage to the concrete. Jack >>> Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton >>> Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 40 lines] > >Jack Well put, Jack. The OP should lift with the jack as it was intended and place good jackstands under the car (WITHOUT WOOD under either)  Signaturegburnore at DataBasix dot Com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ Official .sig, Accept no substitutes. | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ 0 1 7 2 3 / Ý³Þ 3 7 4 9 3 0 Û³ Black Helicopter Repair Services, Ltd.| Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== >...chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was ground steel extracted from the wheels< It's not steel from the wheels. Its concrete dust/marks in the concrete from the weight on the steel wheels. That's usually a sign of a weak mix or old concrete. We always called a weak mix a "barn yard" mix, meaning there wasn't as much "cement" in the mix, which made it weaker/cheaper, but was fine for a barn yard pour. Not allot of weight going to be on it. Was manly for ease of cleaning the barn yard. >>...chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was ground steel extracted from the wheels< > [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >weaker/cheaper, but was fine for a barn yard pour. Not allot of weight >going to be on it. Was manly for ease of cleaning the barn yard. Have you ever seen any figures on the amount of stress a hoofed animal places on concrete. Believe me when I say that a 1000 pound cow will stress a concrete floor more than a 4 ton tractor. No one wants to put down a concrete floor more than once. So the mix isn't short on Portland cement on purpose. The amount of money saved is not very great and the durability of the finished floor is much reduced. Your "barn yard mix" comes from the fact that most of these older concrete floors were mixed in a small batch mixer. You measured the amount of sand, gravel and cement by the shovel full, not weight. The amount of water is measured by eye and supplied by a garden hose. So the proportions are an estimate at best. Add that to the fact that these floors have been subjected to 75 to 100 years of acid leaching by animal urine and fecal matter and you have concrete that isn't at it's best. Jack Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how about just laying a piece of double-corrugated cardboard down? > Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward > movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how > about just laying a piece of double-corrugated cardboard down? As several others have pointed out, the white marks are from the concrete, not the jack's wheels. Concrete is the most stable surface for using a rolling floor jack, and putting anything under the jack would reduce the stability. I have been using a rolling jack for 40 years and still cannot see any permanent visible marks on any of my garage floors. Since you are not working in your own garage anyway, I'd skip the cardboard, particle board, steel plates, or anything else and just sweep the dust away when done. SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >> Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >> movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > garage anyway, I'd skip the cardboard, particle board, steel plates, or > anything else and just sweep the dust away when done. And I'm wondering if you leave the jack in the trunk all the time? If so what about the extra amount of gasoline used hauling a 90lb jack around in the trunk. The auto manufactures spend millions getting 90lb off the weight of a car. >>> Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >>> movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > the trunk. The auto manufactures spend millions getting 90lb off the > weight of a car. Good point! SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) And I'm wondering if you leave the jack in the trunk all the time? If so what about the extra amount of gasoline used hauling a 90lb jack around in the trunk. The auto manufactures spend millions getting 90lb off the weight of a car. ------------ Whatever he 'thinks' he's saved in the jack, he's wasting in gas..Is that why they call them 'dumbbells'..? Please do not post binaries to this group. > And I'm wondering if you leave the jack in the trunk all the time? If so > what about the extra amount of gasoline used hauling a 90lb jack around [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > Whatever he 'thinks' he's saved in the jack, he's wasting in gas..Is > that why they call them 'dumbbells'..? > >> Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward > >> movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > around in the trunk. The auto manufactures spend millions getting 90lb > off the weight of a car. ======== You're funny :-P Of course I don't leave the 90-pound jack in the trunk all the time. A real comedian, you are, sweety :-) >> >> Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >> >> movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 23 lines] > Of course I don't leave the 90-pound jack in the trunk all the time. > A real comedian, you are, sweety :-) Buy a condo or membership here in Chicago's western suburbs where auto enthusiasts are welcomed: http://www.autobahncountryclub.net/ They are almost sold out so act now before it is too late! SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) >Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how >about just laying a piece of double-corrugated cardboard down? Corrugated cardboard would have a lot higher rolling resistance. You would have to crush the corrugations to move. Now "railroad board" might work for a one-shot use, that's the thick paper cardboard they use as the backing for note pads and legal pads. You would have to order it in from a paper supplier. Best and easiest to obtain material for a floor protector is 1/4" tempered hardboard - basically pegboard without the holes. Available at almost any good lumber yard or home center. The 1/8" thickness will fall apart too fast. --<< Bruce >>-- >>Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >>movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > The 1/8" thickness will fall apart too fast. DO NOT put anything under the floor jack. The powder is cement, not metal from the wheels. >>> Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward >>> movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > DO NOT put anything under the floor jack. The powder is cement, not > metal from the wheels. The only time I put anything under is to spread the load. The wheels will drop into most pieces of wood, not roll across it. The wheels even sink into most driveway pavements. Mike 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 'New' frame in the works for '08. Some Canadian Bush Trip and Build Photos: http://mikeromainjeeptrips.shutterfly.com > Best and easiest to obtain material for a floor protector is > 1/4" tempered hardboard - basically pegboard without the > holes. Available at almost any good lumber yard or home center. > > The 1/8" thickness will fall apart too fast. ======= I found some of the hardboard (hole-less pegboard) at Lowe's last night. But instead of 1/4-inch, it's 3/16-inch, right in between 1/8" and 1/4". I'll probably check Home Depot. I'm not afraid to admit when I'm wrong. I stand corrected. But I still say the green stuff tastes better.. >> Best and easiest to obtain material for a floor protector is >> 1/4" tempered hardboard - basically pegboard without the [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >last night. But instead of 1/4-inch, it's 3/16-inch, right >in between 1/8" and 1/4". I'll probably check Home Depot. That might be thick enough to hold up. The only way to know for sure is to try it - if it shreds, then you need the thicker stuff... But I wouldn't bother using it with a regular floor jack on your own garage floor slab - even though the sight of the concrete dust might be unsettling the amount of actual damage is miniscule, and it would take decades of working on cars daily in the same places to see any real consequences. If it does enough damage to be seen in one or two uses you've got bigger problems - like substandard concrete used for the slab, or they didn't seal and cure it properly and now it's spalling. The only time we ever bother putting down hardboard on the floors is working on a building and they already have finished the floors (tiled, carpeted or painted) with steel wheel or very heavy implements like manlifts. Even dropping a hammer or a conduit bender can cause thousands in damage to a tile floor if they have to redo large sections. Of course it could happen even through the hardboard, but you can show that you took reasonable and prudent precautions. --<< Bruce >>-- Well, I guess if wood or particle board might hamper the forward movement of the jack, perhaps because of a warp in the board, how about just laying a piece of double-corrugated cardboard down? ============== So, you don't want to do it the right way ..you want to do it your way..? > Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton > Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of > a white, chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was > ground steel extracted from the wheels by the heavy weight of > the car as the jack rolled forward on the concrete ground while > lifting the car. I would suggest the ground up powder was cement. > The substance looked a little like chalk scrawled on > a concrete street. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Using a wooden runway probably isn't keeping with the rules of > floor jack operation, but I want the steel wheels to last. The wheels will last longer than the hydraulics. Don't sewat the small sh.t. > Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton > Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > Using a wooden runway probably isn't keeping with the rules of > floor jack operation, but I want the steel wheels to last. What you see is stone and concrete dust. Nothing to worry about, unless you start seeing big grooves or the concrete starts to crack, then you might want to find a better floor to work on... DON'T use anything under the jack on concrete. Unless your doing work that requires you to remove the tires/wheels why not buy a set of drive on ramps. Lighter, safer, easier to use and faster. Drop the ramps, drive(or back) onto them and chock or lock the brakes. DONE. Now you only have to drag the jack around when you need to pull the tires. For oil changes, greasing the joints, replacing the exhaust, even bigger projects like pulling a transmission. Unless you have a very heavy car the plastic Rhino ramps work pretty well. Or you can hunt down some steel ramps. SignatureSteve W. >> Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton >> Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] >Unless your doing work that requires you to remove the tires/wheels why >not buy a set of drive on ramps. Because drive ramps are extremely unsafe under ANY condition. A good floor jack and jackstands is the way to go. While I was in high schook, I attended the funeral of the father of a girl was dating at the time because of drive ramps. He thought that it was safe enough to drive up on them and not use jackstands. He was wrong. Signaturegburnore at DataBasix dot Com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ Official .sig, Accept no substitutes. | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ 0 1 7 2 3 / Ý³Þ 3 7 4 9 3 0 Û³ Black Helicopter Repair Services, Ltd.| Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== "Gary L. Burnore" ... > "Steve W." ... >>DON'T use anything under the jack on concrete. [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > the time because of drive ramps. He thought that it was safe enough > to drive up on them and not use jackstands. He was wrong. What is the failure mechanism of using ramps when the brakes are locked and chocks are used? Tomes - who uses both methods > "Gary L. Burnore" ... >> "Steve W." ... [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > Tomes > - who uses both methods Some cheaper ramps can twist and collapse. If your not on a level surface or if you overload them they can fail. These same problems can also be found with jacks, jack stands, and lifts. ALL mechanical devices can fail. Take a look at how many people have died using service pits. Almost makes you want to pay the dealer to do the work.... SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York > Almost makes you want to pay the dealer to do the work.... ======== Schucks, no, it doesn't make me want to let the dealer or quick-change place do the work :-) About 5 years ago, in 2003 or so, when I brought my old '95 Tercel to a Jiffy Lube, the Jiffy Lube fella put in green coolant, instead of pink Toyota coolant. Before he did it, he told me the green stuff was the same as the pink Toyota stuff. So I said okay. Well, just a short matter of weeks or months later, the green coolant in the overflow bottle/reservoir began turning black and the volume diminished a whole lot. I guess oil started leaking into the coolant system, since Jiffy Lube put in the wrong type of coolant. And coolant was probably leaking into the oil, but I didn't know what a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) was back then, so I never got a UOA. Anyway, at the time, I didn't realize what the cause was, because I wasn't really interested in learning about cars back then. But I did bring the Tercel back to Jippy Loob just to guage the fellas facial expressions and reaction when I opened the hood. I figured if the culprit was the green coolant he used (in place of the pink), he might say something. Well, he didn't say anthing and wore a Poker face. The fella was a 30-something manager there, too, not some kid out of high school. The coolant system was never the same again. Driving around town, the dash's temperature gauge forever-after always showed a higher arrow reading than it did before Jiffy Lube got their hands on my car. The coolant temp gauge's arrow wasn't in the red, but the arrow would come to stop at a level higher than it ever used to--big difference in arrow readings. The engine's operating temperature was running hotter than it needed to, increasing engine wear I'm sure. If you have a Toyota and bring your car to Jiffy Lube, make sure they have pink Toyota coolant there, or buy the coolant from your dealer before taking it to Jiffy Lube. Better yet, have your dealer do the coolant change, or carefully learn to do it yourself. >> Almost makes you want to pay the dealer to do the work.... > ======== [quoted text clipped - 41 lines] > your dealer do the coolant change, or carefully learn to do it > yourself. Sounds about like the routine we used to go through with the fleet vehicles. Dealer was used for any serious work, BUT for oil, filters and such we were supposed to use the Valvoline places. I think they destroyed at least 20 transmissions by using "compatible" fluid instead of the Chrysler specific stuff. Got to the point that I "forgot" to have the trans serviced more than once. I HATED using the tiny rentals they gave us for service calls. (We were running Grand Caravans and the rentals were usually Neons...) Ever try to fit 1/2 ton of stuff in a Neon? SignatureSteve W. About 5 years ago, in 2003 or so, when I brought my old '95 Tercel to a Jiffy Lube, the Jiffy Lube fella put in green coolant, instead of pink Toyota coolant. Before he did it, he told me the green stuff was the same as the pink Toyota stuff. So I said okay. Well, just a short matter of weeks or months later, the green coolant in the overflow bottle/reservoir began turning black and the volume diminished a whole lot. I guess oil started leaking into the coolant system, since Jiffy Lube put in the wrong type of coolant. And coolant was probably leaking into the oil, but I didn't know what a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) was back then, so I never got a UOA. Anyway, at the time, I didn't realize what the cause was, because I wasn't really interested in learning about cars back then. But I did bring the Tercel back to Jippy Loob just to guage the fellas facial expressions and reaction when I opened the hood. I figured if the culprit was the green coolant he used (in place of the pink), he might say something. Well, he didn't say anthing and wore a Poker face. The fella was a 30-something manager there, too, not some kid out of high school. The coolant system was never the same again. Driving around town, the dash's temperature gauge forever-after always showed a higher arrow reading than it did before Jiffy Lube got their hands on my car. The coolant temp gauge's arrow wasn't in the red, but the arrow would come to stop at a level higher than it ever used to--big difference in arrow readings. The engine's operating temperature was running hotter than it needed to, increasing engine wear I'm sure. If you have a Toyota and bring your car to Jiffy Lube, make sure they have pink Toyota coolant there, or buy the coolant from your dealer before taking it to Jiffy Lube. Better yet, have your dealer do the coolant change, or carefully learn to do it yourself. =================== Dude..WTF are you talking about.. The color of the coolant has nothing to do with it and if you have a leaking head gasket you'll get coolant in your combustion chamber (and oil) and white smoke out the a.s. Green or red or whatever coolant will not cause your head gasket to leak.. > Dude..WTF are you talking about.. The color of the coolant has > nothing to do with it... ======== In this case, the color of the coolant has everything to do with it. Unlike green coolant, Toyota's pink coolant is a non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite, and non-borate coolant with long-life hybrid organic acid technology (a combination of low phosphates and organic acids). From the manual: "Use of improper coolants may damage your engine cooling system. Only use Toyota Super Long Life Coolant or similar high-quality ethylene glycol based non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite....coolant....[etc]." In 2003, that '95 Tercel didn't even have 30,000 miles on it when Jiffy Lube worked their magic on its cooling system. I quoted what you said (again) below. Again, moron, the type of coolant will not cause oil to leak into your coolant or vise versa...If you don't know what you're talking about STF up... -------------------------- "Well, just a short matter of weeks or months later, the green coolant in the overflow bottle/reservoir began turning black and the volume diminished a whole lot. I guess oil started leaking into the coolant system, since Jiffy Lube put in the wrong type of coolant. And coolant was probably leaking into the oil, but I didn't know what a UOA (Used Oil Analysis) was back then, so I never got a UOA. Anyway, at the time, I didn't realize what the cause was, because I wasn't really interested in learning about cars back then. But I did bring the Tercel back to Jippy Loob just to guage the fellas facial expressions and reaction when I opened the hood. I figured if the culprit was the green coolant he used (in place of the pink), he might say something. Well, he didn't say anthing and wore a Poker face. The fella was a 30-something manager there, too, not some kid out of high school. The coolant system was never the same again. Driving around town, the dash's temperature gauge forever-after always showed a higher arrow reading than it did before Jiffy Lube got their hands on my car. The coolant temp gauge's arrow wasn't in the red, but the arrow would come to stop at a level higher than it ever used to--big difference in arrow readings. The engine's operating temperature was running hotter than it needed to, increasing engine wear I'm sure." in2-dadark wrote: > Again, moron, the type of coolant will not cause oil to leak into > your coolant or vise versa...If you don't know what you're talking > about STF up... ======== The U.S. Courts disagree with you. By the way, name-calling again. My, what does that suggest? You and Steve (not to be confused with the pleasant "Steve W." who is a smart gentleman) may not be familiar with the lawsuits involving GM's special coolant called DEX-COOL. I invite your tiny and hostile mind to read Wikipedia's entry on antifreeze, from which the following is excerpted: "According to the DEX-COOL manufacturer, mixing a green coolant with DEX-COOL reduces the batchâ��s change interval to 2 years or 30,000 miles [from its normal 5 year life], but will otherwise cause no damage to the engine." "DEX-COOL specifically has caused controversy. It is casually linked with intake manifold gasket failures in GM's 3.1L and 3.4L engines and with other failures in 4.3L engines. Class action lawsuits were registered in several states, and in Canada, to address some of these claims. The first of these to reach a decision was in Missouri where a settlement was announced early in December, 2007. Late in March 2008, GM agreed to compensate complainants in the remaining 49 states. "Typically OAT [organic acid technology] antifreeze contains a red or pink dye to differentiate it from the conventional glycol-based coolants (blue or green). Some of the newer OAT coolants claim to be compatible with all types of OAT and glycol-based coolants; these are typically green or yellow in color." [End of quotes] So you see, even though color normally doesn't make any difference at all, with coolants, color conveys important information. Otherwise, I wouldn't care what color my coolant was or what religious tendencies it had, because I like coolants of all colors and religions :-) But I don't like rude coolants. > in2-dadark wrote: >> Again, moron, the type of coolant will not cause oil to leak into [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > is a smart gentleman) may not be familiar with the lawsuits > involving GM's special coolant called DEX-COOL. I assume the troll is talking about me. Good to be on its hate-list. :-) But this time, the troll is actually right (at least in part). DexCool (and all the other OAT- organic acid technology- coolants) caused a whole lot of problems. They differ from G-05 HOAT (hybrid organic acid technology) coolant used by Chrysler, Ford, Caterpiller, Mercedes, BMW, and others) in that they lack ANY silicates at all. HOATS contain a greatly reduced silicate package, but still have some. What seems to happen is that particular metals in the cooling system become subject to very aggressive corrosion with pure OAT coolants. Often the metals in question are found in head gasket and manifold gasket materials, so that these become failure points. Also there seems to be a tendency for OAT (or at least the DexCool variant) to do Very Bad Things when it begins to mix with engine oil. All coolants form solids when they mix with oil at high temperatures, but DexCool seems particularly bad. GM had an interesting rash of failures with the small Chevy v6 family due to a combination of factors. First, that engine had a particularly weak intake manifold sealing design that was prone to leak. Second, it was filled with DexCool, and third, it had a lightweight hollow tubular camshaft with assembled lobes. The result was that when the grit from DexCool/oil mixture would get into the cam bearings, they would seize and snap the tubular camshaft in two. > > In2-dadark wrote: > >> Again, moron, the type of coolant will not cause oil to leak into [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > I assume the troll is talking about me. Good to be on its hate-list :-) ======== I'm not trolling by posting in rec.autos.tech with this subject. If I am, please explain how. Steve and In2-dadark, you two (like Mark A.) are just anti-Christian, which is sad. I treat all religions equally, but you guys are just haters. Very sad. O'Reilly Auto Parts has a deal right now where you can get Pennzoil Platinum for $3 per quart after rebate. Mobil 1 is on sale there for $5/quart. Harbor Freight has a nifty, low-profile, 300-pound-rated, 6-wheel, PVC mechanics creeper with foam-padded head rest and tool-holding spots for $22 on sale. The exact same China-made creeper at Autozone runs $40, but it has "Duralast" emblazoned across it. It's AutoZone's top-of-the-line mechanic's creeper. I bought this great creeper from Harbor Freight the other night, along with a third oil drain pan for $2 that Walmart sells for $6. Sales end soon. Almost forgot to mention that you may need to use a coupon to get that great price on the Harbor Freight creeper. Get on their mailing list and they'll send you a newspaper every so often loaded with coupons. This creeper, much better than my old one, rang up at regular price at checkout, so I had to give them the coupon to get the great price. Get on everyone's mailing list! -- O'Reilly, AutoZone, Napa, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc, and post the deals you find here. We can all coordinate to save hundreds of dollars a year! For a week now, I keep smelling something bad when I walk by a particular spot at home. It's really not a spot, but a large 7-foot by 7-foot area. I think yesterday I figured out what it may be: A small rubber mallet I bought at Harbor Freight. It seems like those rubber mallets can out-gas a whole, whole lot of bad-smelling rubber....unless I'm mistaking where the odor is coming from. I'm getting rid of that rubber mallet, I think. "Built_Well" wrote : O'Reilly Auto Parts Deals: Pennzoil Platinum $3 per quart after rebate. Mobil 1 is on sale there for $5/quart. Harbor Freight Deals: Low-profile, 300-pound-rated, PVC China-made 6-wheel, mechanics creeper with foam-padded head rest and tool-holding spots for $22 on sale. It's the same as AutoZone's $40 "Duralast" creeper. Oil drain pan $2, same pan Wal-mart sells for $6. Sales end soon. You may need a coupon to get these great prices. Get on everyone's mailing list. -- O'Reilly, Harbor Freight, AutoZone, Napa, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, etc, for sale flyers loaded with coupons, and post the deals you find here. We can coordinate to save hundreds of dollars a year. _________________________________________________ That's a great idea. Thanks for the tips. I will post unusually good deals that I come across. Rodan. > O'Reilly Auto Parts has a deal right now where you can get > Pennzoil Platinum for $3 per quart after rebate. Mobil 1 is on [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > bad-smelling rubber....unless I'm mistaking where the odor is > coming from. I'm getting rid of that rubber mallet, I think. Most of the HF rubber items carry a nasty odor. I was told that it is the bug/critter killer they treat the crates of product with for shipping. I kind of doubt it but who knows. SignatureSteve W. Near Cooperstown, New York Life is not like a box of chocolates it's more like a jar of jalapenos- what you do today could burn your a.s tomorrow! "Steve W."... >> "Gary L. Burnore" ... >>> "Steve W." ... [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > Take a look at how many people have died using service pits. Almost makes > you want to pay the dealer to do the work.... Doesn't make me want to throw out my ramps.... >>> Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton >>> Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of [quoted text clipped - 27 lines] > the time because of drive ramps. He thought that it was safe enough > to drive up on them and not use jackstands. He was wrong. Well if you feel that one failure you knew of means all ramps are bad then how about the numerous instances of jack stands failing? I know of at least 5 myself. 2 were mechanical failures of the locks, one was a failure of the welds on the legs and the other two were caused by the stands falling over when the vehicle shifted due to being in improper positions. I can also show you failures of lifts (single posts, twin posts and 4 posts) as well as MANY deaths from using service pits. Good ramps rated to support your vehicle are safer than jack stands and a jack. Why? Because you need to go under the vehicle while your putting the stands in place. Can a ramp collapse? Yes, if it's a cheap POS. OR if it is used improperly. If you drive/back onto the ramp on a solid level area (concrete, pavement or even a good wood floor) then chock the wheels on the ground and lock the brakes it is about as stable and secure as it will ever be. Do this on a soft dirt area or on a angled area and you will have problems. The point is that ALL means to lift a vehicle for service have failed at one time or another. Some were outright mechanical failures while others were operator error (far more of these). So do you decide that they are ALL bad to use. NOPE. SignatureSteve W. > Steel wheels aren't as robust as one might suppose. The 3.5-ton > Michelin floor jack's steel wheels laid down a thin layer of > a white, chalk-like substance which I can only suppose was > ground steel extracted from the wheels by the heavy weight of > the car as the jack rolled forward on the concrete ground while > lifting the car. Maybe you would suppose that. But someone who wasn't a troll would come to the correct conclusion that it is the CONCRETE that is getting ground up, not the wheels. |
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