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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / July 2008

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93 Corolla - Vapor lock?

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Sarah Houston - 17 Jul 2008 20:48 GMT
This is weird.

93 Corolla wagon, 166k miles.

It's never done this before, but recently on very hot days it's started
stalling. Just a little at first, a stutter while driving then
restarted.

Then it started doing it more yesterday when the engine was already hot
from another trip.

It stalled out, I pulled over and tried to restart it.

In about a minute it restarted, but stalled again a few more times.

But then it started and ran just fine the rest of the evening, for 5
hours.

It's never done anything like this before.

Could this be bad gas, by chance? Water in the gas?

Or I'm wondering if the fuel filter needs changing, but someone here
awhile back said that this has a big canister filter that's "supposed to
last the life of the car"?

But it seems that if I let the car cool for a minute, it restarts and
after a couple of more times, runs fine.

I haven't used BG44k in awhile, because someone here recommended not
using it every oil change like I used to.
Ray O - 18 Jul 2008 04:32 GMT
> This is weird.
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> I haven't used BG44k in awhile, because someone here recommended not
> using it every oil change like I used to.

It is not vapor lock.

If the engine is stalling when idling or coming to a stop from a higher
speed, the most likely culprit is a gummed up idle air valve.

Another possibility is that the MAF or MAP sensor is dirty.

Also check to make sure the EGR valve closes.

When was the last time the spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, and rotor were
changed, and what type of parts were installed?

Another possibility is that all that fuel injector cleaner damaged the fuel
system by dissolving a flexible line, which clogged the fuel filter or
injectors.

Signature

Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)

Sarah Houston - 18 Jul 2008 05:59 GMT
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :

> It is not vapor lock.
>
> If the engine is stalling when idling or coming to a stop from a
> higher speed, the most likely culprit is a gummed up idle air valve.

It wasn't while coming to a stop, just in real hot weather, in the mid-
upper 90's, when driving after the engine was hot.

In the evening last night, when it cooled down outside some, it was fine
for 5 hours straight.

> Another possibility is that the MAF or MAP sensor is dirty.
>
> Also check to make sure the EGR valve closes.
>
> When was the last time the spark plugs, ignition wires, cap, and
> rotor were changed, and what type of parts were installed?

I put in iridium plugs about 6 months ago, don't recall the last time on
the rest.

> Another possibility is that all that fuel injector cleaner damaged
> the fuel system by dissolving a flexible line, which clogged the fuel
> filter or injectors.

Wouldn't it be doing it all the time then?
Ray O - 18 Jul 2008 06:21 GMT
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> In the evening last night, when it cooled down outside some, it was fine
> for 5 hours straight.

I'd still start with the idle air control valve.

>> Another possibility is that the MAF or MAP sensor is dirty.
>>
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> I put in iridium plugs about 6 months ago, don't recall the last time on
> the rest.

It is possible that the ignition wires are marginal, and the extra heat
raises resistance enough to cause trouble, but it would more likely manifest
itself as a miss at higher RPM than at lower RPM.

>> Another possibility is that all that fuel injector cleaner damaged
>> the fuel system by dissolving a flexible line, which clogged the fuel
>> filter or injectors.
>
> Wouldn't it be doing it all the time then?

Likely yes, and at higher engine speeds more than at lower engine speeds,
which is why I listed that possibility last.
Signature


Ray O
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Sarah Houston - 18 Jul 2008 07:27 GMT
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :

>> It wasn't while coming to a stop, just in real hot weather, in the
>> mid- upper 90's, when driving after the engine was hot.
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> I'd still start with the idle air control valve.

What's it called here?:
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006f1b1
Ray O - 20 Jul 2008 02:59 GMT
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>
[quoted text clipped - 8 lines]
> What's it called here?:
> http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairGuide.htm?pageId=0900c1528006f1b1

Autozone also calls it an Idle Air Control (IAC) valve.

Look under the "Drivability and Engine Controls" link, then under the
"Electronic Engine Controls" link.  Check the IAC valve as described.
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Ray O
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Sarah Houston - 21 Jul 2008 08:21 GMT
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :

>> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>>
[quoted text clipped - 14 lines]
> Look under the "Drivability and Engine Controls" link, then under the
> "Electronic Engine Controls" link.  Check the IAC valve as described.

I found out more about this since before.

It only happens when it's hot outside ( above 90? ) and the engine has
been sitting hot for awhile too, then we start up the car again.

It sometimes stalls when I drive off that way, and when I pull over and
try to restart, it won't, BUT if I turn the ignition ALL the way off and
restart, it will, and runs fine for hours after that.

Is that weird or what?
maxwelton@my-deja.com - 23 Jul 2008 00:43 GMT
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Is that weird or what?

This reminds me of a problem I had with one of those Chevy LUVs
with the Izuzu engine. The engine would just die after some time
of driving at operating temp. It turned out to be the electric fuel
pump. There is a built in fail safe that kills the fuel pump if the
temp. sensor senses the engine is too hot. Over time the sensor
failed the fuel pump at lower tempertures. I met someone
about 10 year later that described the same problem to me.
But what you describe is happening on hot days while the car
has been sitting. One trick I have always done in the summer
to prevent vapor lock is add a quart of kerosene to at least
10 gallons of gasoline. With more ethanol in the fuel vapor
lock is a more common problem.
Ray O - 24 Jul 2008 04:46 GMT
> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
>
> Is that weird or what?

After reading the symptoms, I think you should start by checking the IAC
valve and the EGR valve
Signature


Ray O
(correct punctuation to reply)operation.

Sarah Houston - 26 Jul 2008 07:20 GMT
"Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :

>> "Ray O" <rokigawaATtristarassociatesDOTcom>  wrote :
>>
[quoted text clipped - 31 lines]
> After reading the symptoms, I think you should start by checking the
> IAC valve and the EGR valve

We were driving down the highway at 8:30 ( around sundown ) and it
stalled briefly and then kept going with no problems again, the rest of
the trip. It was like a stuttering bump we felt, then it just resumed.

I gotta get it checked out.
ransley - 18 Jul 2008 18:01 GMT
> This is weird.
>
[quoted text clipped - 27 lines]
> I haven't used BG44k in awhile, because someone here recommended not
> using it every oil change like I used to.

It could be a bad coil
 
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