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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / July 2005Stripped oil pan drain hole threads?
I have a 2003 Corolla. I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug and suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug. What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger size, or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil pan replaced? >I have a 2003 Corolla. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > oil > pan replaced? It's a little late for this advice, but it is not necessary to really crank down on the drain plug. It only has to be tight enough so it doesn't work loose or leak. I hope for your sake you're not over-tightening the oil filter either. Tighten the oil filter as tight as you can get it with slightly oily hands - when your hand slips on the oil filter housing, it's probably tight enough. Since you are supposed to check for leaks when you start the engine after an oil change, you can always tighten the drain plug or oil filter if it leaks but you can't visually check to see if it is over-tightened. You did a pretty good job of naming your options. The challenge to drilling and rethreading is finding a suitable drain plug. Threaded inserts, A.K.A helicoils, may work and is probably the easiest option besides replacing the oil pan. In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't get metal shavings into the oil pan. If you decide to remove the oil pan yourself, make sure you use RTV sealant that is marked as safe for O2 sensors and remove all of the old gasket material. I don't know if the block is aluminum or iron but remember that aluminum is even easier to cross-thread and strip than the boss on the drain pan so don't crank too hard on those drain pan bolts! Good luck!  SignatureRay O correct the return address punctuation to reply >>I have a 2003 Corolla. >> [quoted text clipped - 37 lines] > > Good luck! I would just try retapping the threads first, if that doesnt work, you could probably buy any larger size metric bolt and retap the threads, std is 14mm, so next size up would be 15mm, I did that when I was swapping seatbelts on my older truck from the pass side which was hardly used to the driver's side. Downside is a drain plug is usually magnetic, a std bolt isn't. A third option available is what happened to a coworker's honda, some oil change place stripped the threads and they put in a cheezy rubber plug of some sort. >>I have a 2003 Corolla. >> [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > In any case, you should remove the oil pan to work on it so you don't > get metal shavings into the oil pan. Removal of the pan for helicoils is not necessary. Any metal shavings will sit on bottom of pan harmlessly. These are the most practical options, in order of ease: 1) Expanding rubber plug. These have a rubber sleeve. When you tighten them, the sleeve expands to fill the hole and clamp itself in place. Available cheaply at most auto supply stores. Tend to wear out and eventually start leaking again. $10 or less. 2) Helicoil-type insert. Best professionally installed. Essentially permanent fix unless defective. Can be installed fairly quickly without removing the oil pan. $50-100 3) New oil pan. Easily, far and away the most expensive. $200-400. SignatureTeGGeR? How to find anything on the Internet: www.google.com or in Usenet Groups: www.groups.google.com Google is your friend. Learn how to use it. > >>I have a 2003 Corolla. > >> [quoted text clipped - 46 lines] > > 3) New oil pan. Easily, far and away the most expensive. $200-400. Thanks to you and everyone else who responded. I decided to take it to the dealer and let them decide whether a helicoil-type insert or new pan is most appropriate. I suspect they will suggest a replacement pan. If it was an older car I'd try doing a helicoil insert myself, but due to the fact that it's so new, I'm not going to mess with any of this myself. They said somewhere around $360 for a replacement pan. It'll take me a few years to make that back doing my own oil changes, but at least now I know better than to tighten it too much. I will check the manual for a torque rating on the bolt for future reference, as it didn't seem like I was tightening it all that much... As someone else mentioned you can get an expansion plug that is designed for just this situation or you can put in a helicoil which is a more permanent solution. The expansion plug "grows" as you tighten it thus sealing the hole. The helicoil replaces your factory threads with new threads that are sort of added on. Either is available at any auto parts store. At any rate, you do not need to buy a new oil pan as your problem is very common. Fix it quickly though as disaster awaits if you don't. Good luck. jor > I have a 2003 Corolla. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil > pan replaced? I've gotten oversize self tapping oil plugs that are made just for what happened to you. Used to be a common thing to happen on Chevys. Call your local parts stores, you may have to take the old plug in so they can give you the proper size. Oil pan plugs and sparkplugs are probably the most over torqued things by the do it yourselfers. > I have a 2003 Corolla. > [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the oil > pan replaced? > What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger > size, > or there threaded inserts that would allow it to be drilled and then the > insert would replace the hole at the same size, or do I have to have the > oil > pan replaced? The oil pan is probably the same for a number of years. If you have to replace it try a wrecking yard. As far as tightness goes, with a 3/8 drive ratchet I just grab the head of the ratchet handle,(where the socket attaches) instead of the handle itself and get it good and snug. It's hard to put a lot of torque on a bolt this way. SignatureEvery day is a good day- it's just that some are better than others. This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and if so, which kind and where? I asked about this in an auto parts store once. For some of the settings I mentioned (I believe very low torque) they said it would require a very special wrench that would cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not bother and just do it "finger tight". I have seen some of the long ones they sell with all the other tools, but I am not sure about the quality. Are these worth it (especially for a sporadic do-it-yousrelf-er)? Also, a thing with a 2 foot long handle won't fit in many places in an engine compartment. What options are there to torque wrenches? I have seen mention of hand/finger tight, hand tight when held at the center of the wrench (in this thread), hand-tight then a quarter turn past that with a wrench (maybe this was for spark plugs), etc. Then there's jumping up and down on the wheel wrench when changing tires (especially getting them off)! I know different people have different hand strengths but is there a general guideline to what hand tight, or hand tight plus one quarter turn, or other methods equal in terms of torque so I can use this when I see a specification in a manual? So far we've got: Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. > This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention > specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and if [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > cost closer to the $150 range if I could find one and probably to not > bother and just do it "finger tight". You can just buy a cheap beam-type torque wrench. For stuff like oil changing, it will be just fine. You can get a decent beam type for $20-30. > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands Hand-tight with dry hands is fine for aftermarket filters. Toyota OEM filters should be tightened 3/4 turn once the gasket touches the block. > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. "Hand tight" is meaningless unless you are very experienced in exactly what a bolt feels like when it's "just right". Specified torque for your vehicle's oil drain bolt is probably 18 ft lbs, which ain't a whole lot and is easily achieved one-handed with a short box- end 14mm wrench. SignatureTeGGeR? How to find anything on the Internet: www.google.com or in Usenet Groups: www.groups.google.com Google is your friend. Learn how to use it. Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of sealing washers and o-rings used to seal drain plugs. Also, the pan itself (cast aluminum vs. stamped steel with reinforcement) greatly affects how much torque is needed to do the job. As mention earlier (before this thread name was changed), using a 3/8ths drive ratchet with a handle no longer than the width of your hand is the way to go and ... it will fit in your glovebox. -- -Philip > This thread has me thinking about torque wrenches. Manuals mention > specific torque settings for lots of things. Should I get one, and [quoted text clipped - 21 lines] > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the engine together LOL mike hunt > Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain > plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands > > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. >Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the >engine together LOL I used to do my own oil changes. It only costs 24 bucks at the dealer and if they strip the plug...they fix it...lol >mike hunt > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >> > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. Scott in Florida >> Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the >> engine together LOL [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > It only costs 24 bucks at the dealer and if they strip the plug...they > fix it...lol Yeah right, IF they admit that they did it!! <eg> Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many years because we could not afford to pay the price? My wife still does not get the concept, she still cuts coupons. At our age we have maybe ten years left, if we are lucky. I keep telling her don't be afraid to spend money on the things you want, go wherever you want, do whatever you wish. No mater how much we spend, when we die our five grown children will all simply retire. By the way did you get hit by the storm? The weather has been nice here in Key West mike hunt > >Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the > >engine together LOL [quoted text clipped - 45 lines] > > Scott in Florida > Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can > pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many > years because we could not afford to pay the price? I always paid to have my oil changed when I couldn't really afford to, because I didn't have a place to do it myself. Now that I can afford to have it changed anywhere, I do it myself because working on a car is one of the few physical activities I enjoy. > My wife still does not get the concept, she still cuts coupons. > At our age we have maybe ten years left, if we are lucky. Huh? Ten years left for what? >> Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can >> pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] >Now that I can afford to have it changed anywhere, I do it myself because >working on a car is one of the few physical activities I enjoy. get a mountain bike and/or a kayak! >> My wife still does not get the concept, she still cuts coupons. >> At our age we have maybe ten years left, if we are lucky. > >Huh? Ten years left for what? Scott in Florida HA HA I'm closing in on 79 years old and all of my male relatives were dead around 75 years old. ;) mike hunt > > Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can > > pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Huh? Ten years left for what? Oh. Well, you are admirably realistic and candid about it. I hope you live longer than you expect, are much healthier during the rest of your life than you expect, and that when you do have to die, it's painless and quick. > HA HA I'm closing in on 79 years old and all of my male > relatives were dead around 75 years old. ;) [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > > > > Huh? Ten years left for what? Thanks Ernie for the kind words. When it's time for me to go I want to die peacefully, in my sleep, like my grandfather did when he died. I would hate to go screaming like the rest of the people in his car when it went off the road ;) mike hunt > Oh. Well, you are admirably realistic and candid about it. I hope you live > longer than you expect, are much healthier during the rest of your life than [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > > > mike hunt >Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can >pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >much we spend, when we die our five grown children will all >simply retire. LOL.. I'm available for adoption... >By the way did you get hit by the storm? The weather has been >nice here in Key West We got a lot of wind, but no real damage. Matter of fact the electricity stayed on this time. We were very lucky. I spent the storm time out on my lanai watching the birds, ducks and squirrels find places to hide from the wind! >mike hunt > [quoted text clipped - 47 lines] >> >> Scott in Florida Scott in Florida >>By the way did you get hit by the storm? The weather has been >>nice here in Key West [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >I spent the storm time out on my lanai watching the birds, ducks and >squirrels find places to hide from the wind! Why did you respond to that, Scott? We all know he's on dial-up in Hazleton Pennsylvania (or somewhere close) and not Key West Florida. Of course Mikey's also living in the state of Denial... Posting Host du16082.haz.ptd.net [204.186.16.82] Please quit responding to the troll when you know damned good and well he's lying like Joe Isuzu. Thank you. ;-) --<< Bruce >>-- SignatureBruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. >>>By the way did you get hit by the storm? The weather has been >>>nice here in Key West [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >Hazleton Pennsylvania (or somewhere close) and not Key West Florida. >Of course Mikey's also living in the state of Denial... Well, 'mike' is kinda fun now and then. > Posting Host du16082.haz.ptd.net [204.186.16.82] > > Please quit responding to the troll when you know damned good and >well he's lying like Joe Isuzu. Hell I like Joe Isuzu... > Thank you. ;-) > > --<< Bruce >>-- Scott in Florida Because he knows by now that I log on from a satellite system network that is connect to the web via a server in Pa ;) mike hunt > >>By the way did you get hit by the storm? The weather has been > >>nice here in Key West [quoted text clipped - 24 lines] > 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 > Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. We had a small tornado go through Delaware a number of years ago. It was amazing to see the number of dead birds and small animals lying around afterwards. mike hunt > >Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can > >pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 73 lines] > > Scott in Florida >Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can >pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >much we spend, when we die our five grown children will all >simply retire. Such a great attitude!...and all along here I thought that I was the only one who thought like this (and even felt a little guilty because of it). You see mature folk scrimping and saving and you know damned well that they'll never spend it, it's just piling up in a bank to be used by their kids. What foolishness, give your children a good education, give them the knowledge and desire to get ahead (or try to give them that), let them know that they'll not be getting a windfall when you go because you plan to 'spender all on YOUR retirement' (save enough in a secure spot to bury yourself)...THEN HAVE FUN!!!...you earned it baby!!... I'm seventy and enjoying it very much!!...our bills are all paid up, our house is ours...our four kids all have careers and kids of their own (and bills, mortgages, car loansmaintenancefees billsandmorebillsandfees....etc etc... Do I feel guilty?...nah!...btdt. -- -Gord. (use gordon in email) We own homes in Delaware, Pa and Key West, my five children are between 35 and 45 and do not need my money. The oldest son is an Architect, he did some of the design work at Caesar's Palace in Atlantic city when it first opened. My second son is retired Air Force, where he few C5's and now works for the state government. My oldest and youngest daughters are teachers and married to wealth men. My middle daughter is a sergeant in the Pa State Police and married to an electoral contractor. I can not convince my wife we need not worry and to do the things she wants, even though she knows we have been giving much of our wealth away for the past five years. We have given large grants to three hospitals, two churches and the Salvation Army. I have endowed a chair at the engineering school of the university where I earned my Degree in Metallurgy and still our income is greater than the amount we spend monthly. mike hunt > >Isn't it nice to finally be at a point in ones life where one can > >pay people to do those things we had to do ourselves for many [quoted text clipped - 30 lines] > -Gord. > (use gordon in email) > It only costs 24 bucks at the dealer and if they strip the plug...they > fix it...lol It costs me $4 for the oil and $3 for the filter (OEM in bulk). Even including all the other inspecting, tightening, topping off, and lubing I do at the same time, I can do an oil change myself faster than I can drive to the quick lube place. I have better things to do on a Saturday than sit in a dealer waiting room. > It costs me $4 for the oil and $3 for the filter (OEM in bulk). Even > including all the other inspecting, tightening, topping off, and [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > I have better things to do on a Saturday than sit in a dealer waiting > room. What do you do with the old oil? Around here, it's a real PITA to get rid of it. Signature"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario >> It costs me $4 for the oil and $3 for the filter (OEM in bulk). Even >> including all the other inspecting, tightening, topping off, and [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > What do you do with the old oil? Around here, it's a real PITA to get rid > of it. We can take it to the township recycling yard where there is a big receptacle into which old oil can be dumped by residents. Not a big deal. <snip> > > What do you do with the old oil? Around here, it's a real PITA to get rid > > of it. > > We can take it to the township recycling yard where there is a big > receptacle into which old oil can be dumped by residents. Not a big deal. Sure, that's what we have to do as well. Drive out to it, pay them a little bit, then home again. About the same time (a little more, in my case) than it takes to get it done at a lube place. I used to do it myself when I owned motorbikes, since the dealer would laugh if I brought it in for an oilchange. I think I still have a few old coffee cans in the garage with oil in them. Signature"Stay calm. Be brave. Wait for the signs." regards, Frank Johansen Aurora, Ontario >> It only costs 24 bucks at the dealer and if they strip the plug...they >> fix it...lol [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] >I have better things to do on a Saturday than sit in a dealer waiting >room. It takes me 30 minutes at the dealer to get mine done. It would take me longer to find all my stuff and do it at home! Besides I get to yak with the tech's about soccer moms that have 'forgotten' to change their oil...and ended up with sludged engines! My dealer is on my way to and from clients, so I really don't lose any time getting my oil changed... Scott in Florida On Mon, 27 Sep 2004 17:51:30 -0400, MelvinGibson wrote: > Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the > engine together LOL YO! > mike hunt > [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >> > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >> > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. > Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the > engine together LOL [quoted text clipped - 38 lines] >>>Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >>>Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. I always use a torque wrench on mine. 27ft-lb of torque for the Corolla or the Sienna. But I doubt they usually get stripped because of too much torque. I would guess they get cross threaded when the bolt is initally started. Andy Arhelger > > Some folks tighten a drain plug like they think it held the > > engine together LOL [quoted text clipped - 43 lines] > torque. I would guess they get cross threaded when the bolt is initally > started. That may be the case. The wrench I was using was only about a foot long, so I didn't think I could put that much torque on that easily. On the other hand, if it had been cross-threaded, wouldn't it have been hard to get on? I screwed it right in with my fingers until the gasket met the pan. One more thing, it may be that it got stripped because I was putting in an easy-drain plug. I've had one on the other car for a couple years now, and I love it. I get much less oil splattered on me (only when I take off the filter now.) Supposedly it was the right one for the Corolla, but if the threads didn't match up exactly I can see how it could slip out... >That may be the case. The wrench I was using was only about a foot long, so >I didn't think I could put that much torque on that easily. On the other >hand, if it had been cross-threaded, wouldn't it have been hard to get on? >I screwed it right in with my fingers until the gasket met the pan. You would be surprised how much torque you can generate with a standard ratchet or a longer open end or combination wrench - you could easily get over 100 foot-pounds, and strip it out in one shot. There aren't a whole lot of threads there on the oil plug boss to pull against, it's only a few MM thick. That's why you would use a torque wrench on things, just to learn how much is just right and how much is too much. Once you learn how to choke up on the wrench and know how to feel it's "snug enough" you won't need to use the torque wrench every time - only on critical things like head bolts. >One more thing, it may be that it got stripped because I was putting in an >easy-drain plug. I've had one on the other car for a couple years now, and >I love it. I get much less oil splattered on me (only when I take off the >filter now.) Supposedly it was the right one for the Corolla, but if the >threads didn't match up exactly I can see how it could slip out... See above - the threads can get worn and overstressed easily. If you have to fix it, see if you can find a hex nut the right size and threads to fit the pan, preferably a thinner "jam nut", and a bolt to fit it. If the nut is zinc plated (most are) grind as much of the coating as you can off the end faces and wrench flats with a bench grinder, the fumes from welding through zinc are nasty. Take the pan off and clean it up good - "Hot Tank" caustic power cleaner (Auto Machine Shop) or chemical cleaner at a minimum, bead blaster second if you believe in overkill like I do... ;-) Have a good welding shop put the bolt through the original pan drain hole, then thread the jam nut on snug, and weld that puppy down all the way around. (Oxy-Acetylene or MIG or TIG or Silver Braze at the shop's discretion - whatever they're comfortable with. Stick welding something small and relatively delicate like that would be a nifty trick, unless he's got really small rods and The Touch from many years of experience.) And while you have the oil pan off and he has the torch hot, look for any rust pits in the corners of the oil pan and fill them in - if the car has ever sat unused for a few months, you can get moisture and spot rust started that can eat it's way through after a bunch of years. Now it would take a gorilla to strip out the plug threads again. Put the easy-drain valve back in (which doesn't have to be removed each time) and you'll never have trouble with that drain hole again. --<< Bruce >>-- SignatureBruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. > >That may be the case. The wrench I was using was only about a foot long, so > >I didn't think I could put that much torque on that easily. On the other [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > standard ratchet or a longer open end or combination wrench - you > could easily get over 100 foot-pounds, and strip it out in one shot. If I understand how torque is measured, that would mean I am pulling with a force of 100 pounds, if my wrench is a foot long. I wasn't putting anywere near that kind of torque on it. Guessing, I'd say about 30. I was pulling about as hard as i do to lift a 30-lb bucket of cat litter. I don't even know if I can exert a 100-lb pull with one arm. I do agree though, with you in that it can be very hard to estimate, especially for newbies such as myself, how mych torque one is applying. Especially if one is using a longer wrench, as you mentioned. > There aren't a whole lot of threads there on the oil plug boss to > pull against, it's only a few MM thick. That's why you would use a > torque wrench on things, just to learn how much is just right and how > much is too much. Once you learn how to choke up on the wrench and > know how to feel it's "snug enough" you won't need to use the torque > wrench every time - only on critical things like head bolts. Agreed. <snip> > Now it would take a gorilla to strip out the plug threads again. > Put the easy-drain valve back in (which doesn't have to be removed > each time) and you'll never have trouble with that drain hole again. > > --<< Bruce >>-- Thanks for taking the time to write such a detailed response, Bruce! Well, I can see where applying exact torque to a drain plug might be overkill. I like the idea of holding the ratcheting end of the ratchet in your hand, as you wouldn't have to bother with the TW. You'd have to be hideously strong to strip out even aluminum threads that way! On the other hand, if your owner's manual gives a torque rating for the drain plug bolt, I don't get how you could go wrong with a torque wrench, don't they take into account what the drain hole threads are made of when they write the manual? > Brian: You're making a mountain out of a mole hill. Torque wrenched drain > plugs do not prevent stripped threads. Why? Because of the variety of [quoted text clipped - 33 lines] > > Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands > > Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. >Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. ...aaand as tight as possible plus a half turn... Signature-Gord. "I'm trying to get as old as I can, and it must be working 'cause I'm the oldest now that I've ever been" > > >>Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >>Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. > > ...aaand as tight as possible plus a half turn... Look up the torque specs for the oil drain plug and use a good torque wrench. 'Hand tight" means far different torques depending on if Arnold is turning wrench or I am attempting to turn it when my carpal tunnel is complaining. >> >> [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] >is turning wrench or I am attempting to turn it when my carpal tunnel is >complaining. What's this 'wrench' talk when you're describing hand tight?...hand tight is hand tight, as tight as you can get it using your....(wait for it now.......) hand! Signature-Gord. "I'm trying to get as old as I can, and it must be working 'cause I'm the oldest now that I've ever been" >>>>Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >>>>Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >tight?...hand tight is hand tight, as tight as you can get it >using your....(wait for it now.......) hand! But that's the whole stupid &^%$()#_ problem!! "Hand tight" is way too loose of a spec when it really matters. And even when it doesn't. One person's "hand tight" is another person's "Who put this on here, a gorilla?" or a third's "it was just about to fall off". ;-P The hand strength and the leverage access of the person to the wrench is one huge variable, how far out on the wrench they are gripping (how much leverage multiplication), and if they are using a socket and extension, if they're using one hand or two to turn it. For an oil plug, I'd make my "hand tight" with no more than four or five inches of leverage on the wrench, or using a socket wrench one-handed - one finger on the fastener as a guide, and when it stops turning easily with moderate pressure from two fingers, stop. But I do stuff like that on a regular basis. For people who don't turn wrenches regularly, and therefore they have no practical experience with "How tight is tight enough" on certain things, they really need to buy and use a good torque wrench on everything until they get used to how much force is needed - and always use it for critical items like lug nuts and head bolts. The Microtork style "Clicker" wrenches (where you dial in the desired setting in a window) are best, because unlike beam style torque wrenches they're hard to misinterpret. --<< Bruce >>-- SignatureBruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700 5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545 Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net. >>>>>Oil filter: Hand tight with greasy hands >>>>>Oil drain plug: Hand tight held at center of wrench. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > But that's the whole stupid &^%$()#_ problem!! "Hand tight" is way >too loose of a spec when it really matters. And even when it doesn't. Well, to me, if it's meant to be 'hand tight' then the nut should be a 'wingnut'...but then of course, some dingledorf will use a screwdriver or vicegrips on it...<sigh> > One person's "hand tight" is another person's "Who put this on here, >a gorilla?" or a third's "it was just about to fall off". ;-P Of course!...and there's no difference between this and using a spanner...one guy can put a nut on which will come off that day and another can put the same nut on that you need to 'split' to get off all with the same wrench, so to me 'hand tight is just that, no wrench involved. Your advice re torque wrenches is very accurate...very little beats experience...or a good torquewrench. Signature-Gord. "I'm trying to get as old as I can, and it must be working 'cause I'm the oldest now that I've ever been" >> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger >> size, [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] >attaches) instead of the handle itself and get it good and snug. It's hard >to put a lot of torque on a bolt this way. At least don't tighten it 'newfie tight' (that's defined 'as tight as possible plus a half turn'...) :) -- -Gord. (use gordon in email) >>> What are my options? Can I have it drilled and rethreaded to a larger >>> size, [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > At least don't tighten it 'newfie tight' (that's defined 'as > tight as possible plus a half turn'...) :) I thought you were from CA, not CA... >GB wrote: >> >> At least don't tighten it 'newfie tight' (that's defined 'as >> tight as possible plus a half turn'...) :) > >I thought you were from CA, not CA... But I am, I'm from CA, why'd you think I was from CA?...nah, it's CA. (not CA) -- -Gord. (use gordon in email) > >>GB wrote: [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > But I am, I'm from CA, why'd you think I was from CA?...nah, it's > CA. (not CA) I'm assuming islandtelecom is ca, eh? ;) >> >>>GB wrote: [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > >I'm assuming islandtelecom is ca, eh? ;) Yep, you gottit...the cool CA... -- -Gord. (use gordon in email) By my experience (;-) it is the plugs thread that gives first, not the pans. May be a new plug is all you need, and possibly a thread reshaping tool for the pan. Change the gasket every time, and do not overtighten. (or siphon the old oil through the dipstick hole on the between filterchange oilchanges) Asbj?rn >I have a 2003 Corolla. > [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > oil > pan replaced? > I have a 2003 Corolla. > > I am fairly sure I stripped the threads out of my oil pan drain hole. The > plug is still in, but I heard the *tink* sound while tightening the plug and > suddenly it got easier. Now it leaks oil around the drain plug. As someone else mentioned, a self-taping plug is the best solution. Fairly cheap and fairly permanent. Do a google search and I sure you will find more than you wanted to know about self-taping plugs. Would suggest that next time, everyone do themselves a favor and when you get a new vehicle, buy a fumoto valve to replace the oil drain plug. They are bombproof, safely fit most cars and in addition to making oil changes quicker and easier, you don't risk stripping out your plug everytime you change your oil Also, if you plan to "drive it forever" even a careful mechanic might find that the threads on the drain plug tend to get a bit loose around 250,000..... www.fumotovalve.com Fram also makes a similar valve, but based on what I hear about fram filters..... |
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