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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / February 2006AT 340H, a little more troubleshooting:
Codes: 42, 62, 63 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has to do with the speedo being dead (?) 62: Severed No.1 solenoid or short circuit-severed wire harness or short circuit 63: Severed No.2 solenoid or short circuit-severed wire harness or short circuit Hmmmm...severed wire harness? Also says: "HINT: If codes 62,63 or 64 appear, there is an electrical malfuntion in the solenoid. OK, where do we go from here? (Hey, I never said I was a mechanic!) >Codes: 42, 62, 63 >42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > >OK, where do we go from here? (Hey, I never said I was a mechanic!) Ahah! Now you've got something. There are three connectors under the hood, down behind the starter motor. One of them has come loose or is totally unplugged. Since 61 isn't showing, I'm betting it's not completely unplugged as 61 is the number 2 sensor inside the transmission. You should be able to see the connectors without getting under the car. BTW< if you have antilock breaks, there will be a fourth connector. If memory serves (i just took out the tranny in mine two days ago>, your problem will be in the rectangular one, not one of the two round ones or the little square one for antilock brakes.  Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== >>Codes: 42, 62, 63 >>42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > your problem will be in the rectangular one, not one of the two round > ones or the little square one for antilock brakes. Well, thanks for the pointer. I took a look, but didn't see much. I'll have to check it tomorrow or so. I didn't see *any* connectors! (now, that could be a problem, eh?) But I'll check it further later. Anyway, thanks! Don't have advice off the top of my head, but if you need FRP/EWD pages lemmee know what you're working with and I can get you the goods. > Don't have advice off the top of my head, but if you need FRP/EWD pages > lemmee know what you're working with and I can get you the goods. The car is an '88 Supra, and I have a .pdf copy of the TSRM. Just need to RTFM, you know, Read The Fuuuuuu....llllllllll Manual... ;) If I run across something I don't have/don't understand, you bet I'll shout! Thanks a bunch! >>Don't have advice off the top of my head, but if you need FRP/EWD pages >>lemmee know what you're working with and I can get you the goods. > > The car is an '88 Supra, and I have a... If it has an A340H, its not a Supra, its a 4WD truck or 4Runner! Do you mean the A340E? >>>Don't have advice off the top of my head, but if you need FRP/EWD pages >>>lemmee know what you're working with and I can get you the goods. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > If it has an A340H, its not a Supra, its a 4WD truck or 4Runner! Do you > mean the A340E? I'll bet you're right! As I said, RTFM!!! > Codes: 42, 62, 63 > 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > OK, where do we go from here? (Hey, I never said I was a mechanic!) So now we're getting somewhere. Thanks to qslim and Gary for some insight. I don't know when the next time I'll have a chance to crawl around in there...it's getting a little late now. It may not be until next Sunday. In the mean time I have another problem to figure out: how to fit bigger speakers into the doors, without having them hang off the door itself! ;) (I actually foound I can fit a 5.25 or maybe even a 6.25 in there...I'll have to buy some mounting brackets and 'modify' them...heh heh...) Going for the MB Quart component system, I think. How big is the factory speaker hole? After all, I've got 6x9s in the factory hole that's closer to 4x10... Nick. > How big is the factory speaker hole? > > After all, I've got 6x9s in the factory hole that's closer to 4x10... > > Nick. It's weird, Nick. It's the Panasonic (National) "Live Sound" option. They use a baffle system with a large plastic baffle that fits into a cutout in the door. The cutout is actually large enough to allow fitting a 6x9 in there. The opening in the door panel is 4". I could hack away at this to allow about 4.5". What I plan to do is get some Metra or Scosche speaker mounting brackets and shaving them slightly with one 'flat' side to allow refitting the dorr handle/window switch assembly, and then drilling holes in the metal triangle in the door panel to mount the modified adapter and speaker. What would be ideal is to shave the adapter almost flat on one side, as mentioned, and then shave the face at an angle to match the original angle of the factory speaker, that is, so it tilts towards the seat. This will require some actual *work* and I'll probably blow through at least one set before getting it right. I am a bit worried about having the weight of the speaker hanging on the door panel; I'm afraid it might be too much for the material the panels are made out of, so I am also trying to figure some way to mount it to the door frame itself and still mate with the inner door panel surface as it is supposed to. Just hanging the thing in there with wire sounds great, though, and I don't have speakers hanging off the door. Much better looking, and I won't be kicking them like I was in the Tercel! Tell ya what, with 6x9s you will *NOT* get the most out of them unless they are strapped to something solid. Make up a frame that your mounting bracket can bolt to that is firmly (read: RIGIDLY) attached to the door itself. That way, you will get the full bass potential from the speakers. Otherwise, it's not the weight of the speaker that'll kill the doorpanel, it's the vibration. Don't mount speakers only to thin chipboard doorpanels. In worst case scenario I wouldn't actually use 6x9s in the front. 6.5s work just as well, are cheaper and look better - plus are FAR easier to install. Nick. >Tell ya what, with 6x9s you will *NOT* get the most out of them unless they >are strapped to something solid. [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] >work just as well, are cheaper and look better - plus are FAR easier to >install. There are some fine speakers that ft as exact replacements. Also check for the little 3" ones in the lower dashpannel. Don't forget to install limiters if your stereo kicks a.s. ( I don't care what the other read says about it, my Pioneer rips speakers rated for 45watts to shreds without 'em> Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== > Tell ya what, with 6x9s you will *NOT* get the most out of them unless they > are strapped to something solid. [quoted text clipped - 12 lines] > > Nick. Chipboard...so THAT'S what you call that stuff! Ok, yeah, I don't really want to mount directly to the chipboard, but attaching to the door will probably be even more difficult. The good thing is I don't have to cut or drill the chipboard; there is a steel insert riveted into the panel I was going to drill holes in to mount the adapter brackets, and then attach the speakers to these. Actually what I was thinking was, drill the metal piece in three places, get some long bolts with washers and nuts, run the bolt from the front face of the metal piece, through the adapter bracket and then the speaker, place the washers on this mess and then the nuts. This way the speaker adapter will mate with the metal piece and overlap somewhat onto the chipboard, and the speaker itself will act as sort of a backing plate for the whole mess, more or less supporting itself. >> Tell ya what, with 6x9s you will *NOT* get the most out of them unless they >> are strapped to something solid. [quoted text clipped - 14 lines] > >Chipboard...so THAT'S what you call that stuff! That's the nice term. Shitboard is what I'd call it. >Ok, yeah, I don't really want to mount directly to the chipboard, but >attaching to the door will probably be even more difficult. The good thing [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >piece, through the adapter bracket and then the speaker, place the washers >on this mess and then the nuts. Remember that your window glass will be contending for the same space. > This way the speaker adapter will mate >with the metal piece and overlap somewhat onto the chipboard, and the >speaker itself will act as sort of a backing plate for the whole mess, >more or less supporting itself. Part of what gives you good sound is good mounting of the speaker. You may not get the full benefit of the speakers, but they may be ok. Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== >>> Tell ya what, with 6x9s you will *NOT* get the most out of them unless they >>> are strapped to something solid. [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > Remember that your window glass will be contending for the same space. Plenty of space. It is a BIG door, and there is a cut-out for the original speaker enclosure. It's sort of a plastic box supposedly to give the same effect as a Bose Wave Radio...but not quite... >> This way the speaker adapter will mate >>with the metal piece and overlap somewhat onto the chipboard, and the [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > Part of what gives you good sound is good mounting of the speaker. > You may not get the full benefit of the speakers, but they may be ok. I just have the thing cobbed in there, using the mount for the tweeter and the mid-range to hold the thing in. I am able to attach the dorr panel, wit plenty of room left, thanks to the cutout. > Codes: 42, 62, 63 > 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > OK, where do we go from here? (Hey, I never said I was a mechanic!) Unplugged connectors righ above the starter motor. Look for an open 6 pin connector. >> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] >Unplugged connectors righ above the starter motor. Look for an open 6 >pin connector. If he's had any work done, they might have stuffed them between the starter and the engine or, worse, near the steering knuckle. Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== Gary said: If he's had any work done, they might have stuffed them between the starter and the engine or, worse, near the steering knuckle. OH YEAH! I know how THAT feels, and it SUCKS! I've got no reversing lights now for that reason - last guy working on the exhaust cut off the nylon ties I had holding the cable away from the extractors. And it was melted to a crisp. Nick. > Codes: 42, 62, 63 > 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > OK, where do we go from here? (Hey, I never said I was a mechanic!) OK, the latest: Got out the drop light and took a good look (*where* the ehll is the starter???). So, I finally found it and saw 4 connectors: two round with 2? wires each, and a squarish one with 4 or 5 wires (Hey, even with the drop light it was hard to see....). There was one more: a small square connector with 4 wires, red, blue, green and black with red stripes (note, not *a* red stripe). This was the only one not connected, and does not appear to have a mate. (ABS wiring, perhaps? This car does *not* have ABS...) All the rest appear to be connected properly. I have the procedure for electrically testing the solenoids; will have to reposition the car so I can get to the connector... >> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] >round with 2? wires each, and a squarish one with 4 or 5 wires (Hey, even >with the drop light it was hard to see....). That's the one. Try disconnecting then reconnecting it. Listen for the click. >There was one more: a small >square connector with 4 wires, red, blue, green and black with red stripes [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >for electrically testing the solenoids; will have to reposition the car so >I can get to the connector... Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== >>> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >>> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 18 lines] > That's the one. Try disconnecting then reconnecting it. Listen for > the click. Key on, or key off? Actually, if I remember right, one of them is supposed to be energized with the key off??? >>There was one more: a small >>square connector with 4 wires, red, blue, green and black with red stripes [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >>for electrically testing the solenoids; will have to reposition the car so >>I can get to the connector... >>>> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >>>> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 22 lines] >Actually, if I remember right, one of them is supposed to be energized >with the key off??? Best to do it with tkhe key off. I don't know why something would be energised in the tranny with the key off. There are other tests in the book, btw, to further verify your problem. They require removing the glove box and the connectors to the ECU . One test is for continuity and the other you'll need to apply power to certain pins on the cable while listning for the click of the solonoid. Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== >>>>> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >>>>> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > apply power to certain pins on the cable while listning for the click > of the solonoid. Yeah, I'm going to try some of them, but I have to clear some of the *JUNK* out of the garage and reposition the car. Amazing what one can accumulate in 30 years! >>>>>> Codes: 42, 62, 63 >>>>>> 42: defective No.1 speed sensor (in combination meter): betting this has [quoted text clipped - 35 lines] >*JUNK* out of the garage and reposition the car. Amazing what one can >accumulate in 30 years! Just back in and go about 4 feet too far. Then, when you get the insurance check for the garage, build a two car version and when you get the check for the car, replace the tranny. :) Signaturegburnore@databasix dot com --------------------------------------------------------------------------- How you look depends on where you go. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Gary L. Burnore | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ DataBasix | ÝÛ³ºÝ³Þ³ºÝ³³Ýۺݳ޳ºÝ³Ý³Þ³ºÝ³ÝÝÛ³ | ÝÛ³ 3 4 1 4 2 ݳ޳ 6 9 0 6 9 ÝÛ³ Black Helicopter Repair Svcs Division | Official Proof of Purchase =========================================================================== Want one? GET one! http://signup.databasix.com =========================================================================== ok u should be able to locate the ecu box under the dash on the passenger side.. there should be no need to remove any parts of the dash but there weill be a cover over it...there is three connecters on the bottom of it. it should be the connecter closest to the front of the truck. if you check..i think its the 8th pins....resistance it should be somewhere between 11 and 15 ohms...but more like 13.8 i have the same problem with my 92 tacoma. and the solenoid if u have to replace is accessable by dropping the pan. |
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