Home | Contact Us | FAQ | Search & Site Map | Link to Us
Sign In | Join | Other 45 Sites in Network
HomeAnnouncements
Discussion Groups
By Brand
BMWChevroletDodgeFordGMHondaLexusMercedes-BenzNissanPeugeotToyotaVolkswagenOther Brands
By Topic
4x4 CarsRVsDrivingMaintenance & RepairCar AudioCollectible Cars
Country Specific
Australian ForumsUK Forums
ArticlesAuto InsuranceBuyingCars & TechnologyMaintenanceMiscellaneousSafety
DMV Resources
Related Topics
MotorcyclesBoatsMore Topics ...

Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / June 2005

Tip: Looking for answers? Try searching our database.

Engine replaced, leaking oil, dented oil pan (was: How much is too much oil?)

Thread view: 
Enable EMail Alerts  Start New Thread
Thread rating: 
Tercel Owner - 26 Jun 2005 22:48 GMT
Original thread at http://tinyurl.com/bn5kp,
and http://tinyurl.com/ayf7j before that.

History: My original engine (97 tercel, 120,000km or 75,000 miles)
sprung an oil leak and I burned it out.  A used engine of similar
mileage was put in, and it burned oil in well in excess of what my
mechanic thought reasonable, as well as exuding a lung-aggravating
scentless fume.  It has been replaced by a 2nd used engine of similar
mileage, along with a new rear main seal.  Prior to this 2nd
replacement, the 1st used engine also leaked at the rear main seal,
enough to leave oil drops on the gound, and the oil smell was
overpowering.  Replacing the oil pan gasket seemed to reduced the oil
fumes significantly; it didn't reduce the oil loss, and the scentless
aggravating fume was still present.

The mechanic put in the 2nd engine because of the oil loss in the 1st
one; I was more interested in getting rid of the aggravating fumes,
which makes it impossible to drive without all windows down (bad in
winter, rainy days, and hot days).  The 2nd used engine doesn't lose
oil at a significant rate, but there is an overpowering oil smell
similar to that in the 1st used engine before the oil pan gasket was
replaced.  As well, there are oil drops on the ground.  I had my 1st
look underneath today, and saw some seepage at the rear main seal, and
minor seepage at the front mail seal.  The rear main seal is
supposedly new.  There is also 2-inch diameter dent in the oil pan, at
the corner (so it bulges inward instead of outward).  There is surface
rust on the dent.

There is no significant oil loss in the 2nd engine, but I'm concerned
about the impact from breathing the fumes from seeping oil on hot
engine surface.  Whenever I work out, I cough vigorously, and fellow
exercisers remark (jokingly) that its from all my smoking (I don't
smoke).  I have been told that changing the rear & front main seals
involve significant work.  What is reasonable to expect of my
mechanic, considering that the rear main seal is new, and it still
leaks?  I don't want to be unreasonable, but neither do I want to
continue breathing the fumes.  I can't tell whether the scentless
aggravating fume has been eliminated when the overpowering oil fume is
present.  (It is also possible that the "scentless" aggravating fume
in the 1st engine is really due to the a much smaller amount of engine
oil smouldering compared to before the oil pan gasket was replaced).

What about the 2-inch dent in the oil pan?  Is it it a minor issue to
replace oil pan whent the rusty dent rusts through?  Is it OK to
ignore the possibility that the engine might have some other problem
due to such an impact?  Is it reasonable that I was not informed about
this rather dramatic dent?

Thanks for your experienced opinions.
Tercel Owner - 28 Jun 2005 05:15 GMT
> Original thread at http://tinyurl.com/bn5kp,
> and http://tinyurl.com/ayf7j before that.
[quoted text clipped - 45 lines]
>
> Thanks for your experienced opinions.

I'm not sure if this changes the assessment of the situation, but in
addition to the front and rear main seals, the oil pan plug also seeps.
jjjsan - 29 Jun 2005 04:27 GMT
Is the oil leaking from the rusted spot or from the gasket?  If oil is
leaking from oil pan due to a rusted hole, the entire pan can be replaced
or try some epoxy like J-B weld on the leak.
If leaking due to warped pan, entire pan may need to be replaced.
There is normally copper or alumin washer on oil pan plug that need to be
replaced.  Looks like you need to find the source of the other leaks.
Check valve cover for oil leak, there is a gasket that is on the cover and
a spark plug grommet that can cause oil to weep down the engine and hit the
exhast manifold and cause smoking.
I don't think a leak from oil pan can cause smoking, unless it is leaking
on the exhaust manifold or pipe.
Check the distributor for oil leaks, there is o-ring on the shaft that
require periodic replacing.  Real seal replacement can be costly.
There are some engine additive and high mileage oil that is suppose to
recondition the seals.

Tercel Owner - 29 Jun 2005 15:58 GMT
jjjsan wrote:
> Is the oil leaking from the rusted spot or from the gasket?  If oil
> is leaking from oil pan due to a rusted hole, the entire pan can be
> replaced or try some epoxy like J-B weld on the leak.

The oil is leaking from front main seal, rear main seal, and oil
draining plug.

> If leaking due to warped pan, entire pan may need to be replaced.
> There is normally copper or alumin washer on oil pan plug that need
> to be replaced.  Looks like you need to find the source of the other
> leaks.  Check valve cover for oil leak, there is a gasket that is on
> the cover and a spark plug grommet that can cause oil to weep down
> the engine and hit the exhast manifold and cause smoking.

As far as I can see, it's leaking from the 3 locations above.

> I don't think a leak from oil pan can cause smoking, unless it is
> leaking on the exhaust manifold or pipe.

It doesn't smell like burning oil, just hot oil.  After driving, I
smell it everywhere, in my hair, in my clothes, and just breathing.
And it causes some serious coughing for a long time.  On windy days,
it's not so bad (I have all windows open).  And when I drive mostly on
the highway, with only small amounts of urban stop-and-go driving
(e.g. at traffic lights), it's not so bad.  But it's bad enough that
if I use the vents rather than opening the window, it reeks even at
highway speeds.

> Check the distributor for oil leaks, there is o-ring on the shaft
> that require periodic replacing.  Real seal replacement can be
> costly.  There are some engine additive and high mileage oil that is
> suppose to recondition the seals.

I attend my car-care course tonight, so I'll print out your message
and ask about where these things are when it's up on a hoist.

About these oils that recondition the seals, are they required
forever?  Do they have any drawback?  Also, is this reasonable quality
for a newly installed used engine, with new rear main seals?  That's
where most of the seepage is coming from.  I want to be reasonable
about the job that was done, and I'm concerned that this is perhaps
not what one would expect.  But perhaps it is.  Leaking from new
rear main seals is confusing, though.
 
Sign In
Join
My Latest Posts
My Monitored Threads
My Blog
My Photo Gallery
My Profile
My Homepage

Start New Thread
Enable EMail Alerts
Rate this Thread



©2008 Advenet LLC   Privacy Policy - Terms of Use
This website includes both content owned or controlled by Advenet as well as content owned or controlled by third parties.