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Car Forum / Toyota / Toyota Cars / May 2006Service Toyota Celica
Hi, I wish to service my Celica GT 1990. Where do I buy the parts from (spark plugs, oil filter etc)? is there a website (in the UK) where I can order the parts? Are most of these parts common to many vehicles (like the spark plugs) and I can buy them from any parts shop? or do I need to buy the parts from a Toyota dealer? Ta > Hi, > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > > Ta Sorry, I can't help you on UK web sites for purchasing Toyota parts. Your car will run fine on some aftermarket ignition parts and not run as well on some other aftermarket ignition parts. Rather than experimenting, I just recommend OEM ignition parts.  SignatureRay O (correct punctuation to reply) > Sorry, I can't help you on UK web sites for purchasing Toyota parts. > [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] > Ray O > (correct punctuation to reply) Generally stock ignition parts are recommended for these (I own the turbo 4x4 version of your car) as they are quite finnicky about ignition parts but pretty much any iridium/platinum plug will work fine. You will get copper plugs to work fine (if not better) but they need changing more often. leads/rotor arms/dizzy caps I'd stick with OEM. www.cheaptoyotaparts.co.uk supplies OEM parts discounted IIRC, and a place called TCB (toyota celica breakers - supply new and used parts). All in all you get what you pay for, if you dont care how it runs particularly so long as it goes then you can stick on cheapo parts,but dont expect it to run 100% or last as long. If it does its a bonus. J http://www.jbuckle.homeip.net > I wish to service my Celica GT 1990. Where do I buy the parts > from (spark plugs, oil filter etc)? is there a website (in the > UK) where I can order the parts? Are most of these parts common > to many vehicles (like the spark plugs) and I can buy them from > any parts shop? or do I need to buy the parts from a Toyota dealer? "Consumables" -- items that are replaced regularly, like oil filters, spark plugs, belts, and brake linings -- for popular cars like Toy- otas are common to many vehicles. You can get high-quality, name- brands parts at any auto parts shop. There's no need to go to the dealership for OEM parts. Doing so will cost you more in most cases, too. Filters (and light bulbs) can typically be selected off the rack. There are applications guides from the various parts manufacturers the pages of which are organized by car make, model and year of production; these are commonly chained to the shelf where the parts are displayed. Just find the entry for your car, then read across to the column that has the part number for the item you need. Locate the part with the appropriate number on the shelf, and you'll have what you need. For brake parts, you'll need to go to the parts counter and request them from an employee, since these are stored in the back of the shop. Be sure to specify whether you need a full set (both axles), of only pads/shoes for the front or rear brakes. The rear brake linings (the generic term for pads and shoes, depending on whether the brakes are disks or drums) last a lot longer than the fronts, since it's the fronts that absorb most of the energy. Incidentally, if you replace the brake linings yourself, be prepared for "green fade." New ("green") brake linings will emit volatile compounds as gases the first few times they heat up. These gases will lessen the friction between the linings and the rotors or drums (think "air hockey table"), lessening the brakes' effectiveness. It isn't dangerous as long as you're aware of it. (A racing assoc- iate of mine has a dedicated toaster oven that he uses to "cook" the volatiles out of new brake pads before he installs them.) Geoff Signature"'Phobic' is the current one-word favorite among liberal dismissals of ideological opponents. It combines instant moral dismissal with instant psychological analysis." -- Dennis Prager > Geoff > > -- > "'Phobic' is the current one-word favorite among liberal dismissals > of ideological opponents. It combines instant moral dismissal with > instant psychological analysis." -- Dennis Prager You will notice a difference in quality. The majority of aftermarket parts ive installed, even more expensive than Mr T himself, have caused issues. If they are non-critical parts then thats not really a problem. But on brakes/ignition leads etc it is. Magnecour make 'super-duper ignition leads but on the 3sgte engine they have a 50:50 failure rate (and when i say failure i mean cause misfires despite appearing to conform in tests). > You will notice a difference in quality. The majority of aftermarket > parts ive installed, even more expensive than Mr T himself, have caused >issues. If they are non-critical parts then thats not really a problem. > But on brakes/ignition leads etc it is. It's been my experience that OEM Toyota brake pads wear longer than aftermarket ones. I didn't mention that because I probably have a more aggressive driving style than many people do, and so most may not discern any difference. If they do, the inferior pads will wear and require replacement soon enough, anyway. :^) I think any name-brand oil filter (Fram, Purolator, etc.) will be plenty good enough. I've never had a problem with aftermarket ignition system parts (distributor cap and rotor), although the ones I've purchased have also been name-brand. Ignition leads are a special case, since unlike the distributor cap and rotor, they don't need to be replaced on a regular (or at least, frequent) basis, and so they didn't come to mind when I was thnking about "consumable" items. I'd go with OEM there both for quality reasons (I've had bad aftermarket ones), and because the leads would be the proper length and would have higher-quality connectors than aftermarket ones do. Geoff Signature"'Phobic' is the current one-word favorite among liberal dismissals of ideological opponents. It combines instant moral dismissal with instant psychological analysis." -- Dennis Prager > It's been my experience that OEM Toyota brake pads wear longer than > aftermarket ones. I didn't mention that because I probably have a > more aggressive driving style than many people do, and so most may > not discern any difference. If they do, the inferior pads will wear > and require replacement soon enough, anyway. :^) I too eat pads at a rate of one set per 12000 miles :) > I think any name-brand oil filter (Fram, Purolator, etc.) will be > plenty good enough. On the generation of engine we are talking about (If im not wrong about the GT being a 3sGE engine) it has the filter mounted upside down. The Toyota filter is fitted with a non-return valve to ensure the oil doesnt take forever to get back up to pressure, 90% of aftermarkets dont have this - I confirmed this by trying one and having the oil-pressure in the head remain low (zero) for a couple of seconds longer than with a toyota filter. Not something id save five bucks over and lose protection, personally. Fair point about the ignition systems. I am pushing my car past its normal limits so i tend to make damn sure its right, but for a normal driver the ignition components *should* be ok. Thanks to all for the feed-back. Just one more question: When replacing the rear brake pads, is it necesary to replace the other bits of the assembly or do they sell the pads as an assembly anyway? I am talking about the anti-squeal shims, anti-rattle springs, pad support plates, etc > Thanks to all for the feed-back. Just one more question: When replacing > the rear brake pads, is it necesary to replace the other bits of the > assembly or do they sell the pads as an assembly anyway? > > I am talking about the anti-squeal shims, anti-rattle springs, pad > support plates, etc They dont usually come with the parts but you can buy them for about the same proce as the pads. Dont replace them unless they look knackered or knock/rattle. J |
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