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Car Forum / UK Car Forums / Car Maintenance (UK group) / March 2007

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Transmission Woes

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Vim Fuego - 14 Oct 2006 20:12 GMT
So, to recap: earlier this week I managed to drop the plastic drivegear off
the speedo drive of my Skoda Felicia (1998 1.9 diesel, non turbo, VW engine,
engine code AEF) into the transmission. Since then I've been driving it
hoping that the gearbox would just mash the plastic to bits, and I could
change the transmission oil and all would be well.
Pretty much straight away it started being reluctant to go into 1st and 2nd
gear.

I now can't get into into 1st at all, and 3rd feels stiff and sticky and as
if it's not engaging positively. I've changed the transmission oil (god what
a pain in the arse fiddly job) and it hasn't changed anything. No obvious
sign of plastic bits in the old oil but it was so mucky you wouldn't expect
to see it anyway.

My intention is to keep driving it, try to avoid any hillstarts while
lugging any heavy loads (!), hope the problem sorts itself out, and change
the transmission oil again if anything changes. However I wouldn't be at all
surprised if I'm looking at having to replace the transmission.

Questions:
- Transmissions off what vehicles (other than exact make & model match) will
be a match for this one? Is it a Skoda or VW transmission? I know the Polo
1.9D of the same era had the same engine, would a transmission from that be
a match? Do transmissions have type codes, if so how do I find out what this
one is to help  me find a match?
- What's the best source for a good replacement transmission? Scrapyard? If
so how do I check the one I'm taking off is good, apart from trying to
confirm with the scrappy that the engine / box was good (I know they often
mark them up as such)?

Any help really appreciated. Getting seriously pissed off with this now. :-(
Vim Fuego - 14 Oct 2006 20:16 GMT
> - What's the best source for a good replacement transmission? Scrapyard?
> If so how do I check the one I'm taking off is good, apart from trying to
> confirm with the scrappy that the engine / box was good (I know they often
> mark them up as such)?

And how much of a bastard of a job is it to have to take a transmission off
at the scrappy, and then on the drive take the existing one off and put the
scrap one one? For starters, can you actually lift a transmission by hand?
PC Paul - 14 Oct 2006 22:54 GMT
>> - What's the best source for a good replacement transmission?
>> Scrapyard? If so how do I check the one I'm taking off is good,
[quoted text clipped - 5 lines]
> existing one off and put the scrap one one? For starters, can you
> actually lift a transmission by hand?

Depends very much on the car.

As for lifting it, I helped out a (more knowledgeable) mate once who asked
me to lie under his RWD transit and 'catch the gearbox' on my chest then
wriggle out from under with it.

I can confirm they are actually really quite heavy.
Vim Fuego - 14 Oct 2006 22:56 GMT
> As for lifting it, I helped out a (more knowledgeable) mate once who asked
> me to lie under his RWD transit and 'catch the gearbox' on my chest then
> wriggle out from under with it.

Christ, does he not like you much, that's right up there with asking the
(disproportionately well insured) wife to stand in the road as you drive at
her to 'test the brakes'... :-)
Dave Plowman (News) - 15 Oct 2006 10:17 GMT
> As for lifting it, I helped out a (more knowledgeable) mate once who
> asked me to lie under his RWD transit and 'catch the gearbox' on my
> chest then wriggle out from under with it.

> I can confirm they are actually really quite heavy.

One look at it should have told you the casing is cast iron...

Signature

*I never drink anything stronger than gin before breakfast *

   Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                 To e-mail, change noise into sound.

PC Paul - 15 Oct 2006 11:28 GMT
>> As for lifting it, I helped out a (more knowledgeable) mate once who
>> asked me to lie under his RWD transit and 'catch the gearbox' on my
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
>
> One look at it should have told you the casing is cast iron...

Well, I was only 15 at the time... You don't get to recognise cast iron
working on pushbikes...

I managed it fine anyway. Just had to give up breathing for a short while.
Guy King - 15 Oct 2006 17:39 GMT
The message <20dYg.150382$wg.57235@fe1.news.blueyonder.co.uk>
from "PC Paul" <urd@bitrot.co.uk> contains these words:

> As for lifting it, I helped out a (more knowledgeable) mate once who asked
> me to lie under his RWD transit and 'catch the gearbox' on my chest then
> wriggle out from under with it.

Ah, yes, I've done that! And got it back in (nearly) single-handed.
You're right, they're effing heavy.

Signature

Skipweasel
Pay no attention to that man behind the curtain.

Chris Bartram - 15 Oct 2006 17:05 GMT
>> - What's the best source for a good replacement transmission? Scrapyard?
>> If so how do I check the one I'm taking off is good, apart from trying to
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> at the scrappy, and then on the drive take the existing one off and put the
> scrap one one? For starters, can you actually lift a transmission by hand?

The gearbox is quite heavy, but two people can lift it into place and
line it up with the clutch.

It's almost certainly a VW box. Look around on the casing and you'll see
the code- look from the passenger wheelarch IIRC. It might be a 02A or
02J. Is it cable shift or rod?

I'd bet that a Polo/Golf/Ibiza/Caddy/Inca/Cordoba box from a non-turbo
diesel of the same age will fit.

I wouldn't bet on opening up the transmission and having it work
properly again- sometimes you need special tools for a start. Get one
from a scrappy- shouldn't be too expensive.
Vim Fuego - 15 Oct 2006 18:34 GMT
> It's almost certainly a VW box. Look around on the casing and you'll see
> the code- look from the passenger wheelarch IIRC. It might be a 02A or
> 02J. Is it cable shift or rod?

Rod shift. It has the following on the top of the transmission :-

002 301 1<?>
093-5
226 <squiggle>

The <?> digit I can't make out because it's right under a securing nut,
looks like a 0 8 or 6.
The small <squiggle> I can't 100% make out but I've got a nasty feeling it's
a very small Skoda logo... no sign of a VW/Audi logo

The engine number is 028 103 374. Nothing seems to confirm for me exactly
what engine type number it is but it's deffo VW and the Haynes says it's
engine type code AEF.

It's got the following in the service schedule, make of it what you will :-

Type: 6563HH 756 3714J2
           1.9 LX FEL.COM.
           47kW
                    0176387 DYSS
Eng Code No /Trans Code: L946

The label is bloody confusing but the 0176387 DYSS *may* be engine code /
gearbox code related. There are a few other details but they look like
paintcode/trim/accessory codes.

Just to wind me up, it's started going back into 1st gear OK now...

All for the sake of one little bastard bit of plastic grrr grrr grr. If I
ever get it out of there I think I'll get it mounted and keep it on the
mantlepiece in memory of my mighty triumph over it...sort of like Jabba The
Hut having Han Solo frozen in carbonite hung up on the wall.... :-)
Ivan - 15 Oct 2006 20:43 GMT
> Just to wind me up, it's started going back into 1st gear OK now...
>
[quoted text clipped - 3 lines]
> like Jabba The Hut having Han Solo frozen in carbonite hung up on the
> wall.... :-)

Well if it was jamming the selectors it sounds like it as now shifted into a
different position.

If you're thinking of changing the gear box anyway, why not give a really
good long and fast run along the nearest motorway, it's a pretty good bet
that with all that splashing oil and whirring cogs the plastic gear will
eventually locate itself between a couple of high-speed gears and be
instantly liquidised.. well in theory anyway, however if you're not already
a member, perhaps it might pay to join one of the breakdown services.. just
in case!
Ivan - 14 Oct 2006 21:09 GMT
> > Pretty much straight away it started being reluctant to go into 1st
> and 2nd gear.
[quoted text clipped - 4 lines]
> anything. No obvious sign of plastic bits in the old oil but it was
> so mucky you wouldn't expect to see it anyway.

I'd be the first to admit that I know little if anything about gearboxes,
but just a thought, is there a possibility that the plastic gear assembly
might still be alive and well and jamming up the selector mechanism?
Vim Fuego - 14 Oct 2006 22:22 GMT
> I'd be the first to admit that I know little if anything about gearboxes,
> but just a thought, is there a possibility that the plastic gear assembly
> might still be alive and well and jamming up the selector mechanism?

Very probably. Not sure how that helps me though. I am wondering whether
it's worth me trying to open up the existing transmission and get the
plastic out (either whole or in bits). The Haynes manual has this to say
about opening up the transmission: "Five spanner rating, definite specialist
garage job, don't even think about it, not even going to try to tell you how
to go about it". But then I wouldn't be attempting to service it, just open
it and clean it out.
kimble - 14 Oct 2006 22:33 GMT
>> is there a possibility that the plastic gear assembly
>> might still be alive and well and jamming up the selector mechanism?
>
> Very probably. Not sure how that helps me though. I am wondering whether
> it's worth me trying to open up the existing transmission and get the
> plastic out (either whole or in bits).

Endoscope?  ;)

Actually, they must be used industrially for this sort of thing...
wonder if you could find and persuade a friendly operator?

Kim.
Duncan Wood - 15 Oct 2006 07:52 GMT
>> I'd be the first to admit that I know little if anything about  
>> gearboxes,
[quoted text clipped - 12 lines]
> open
> it and clean it out.

You could search for the post about ETKA & workshop manuals which will  
give you the strip down details.
Al Gorithm - 16 Oct 2006 22:36 GMT
>>> I'd be the first to admit that I know little if anything about
>>> gearboxes,
[quoted text clipped - 15 lines]
> You could search for the post about ETKA & workshop manuals which will
> give you the strip down details.

The problem with Haynes is this, from the point of view of rebuilding
the box, they say its probably not worth it. If the bearings are worn
then the syncro rings and gear teeth will be worn too, so the box will
still be noisy. So Haynes reckon its not worth it, probably correct.
All you will be doing is tipping it on its end , removing the end cover
and 5 th gear(s) then removing the casing,at this point the little
plastic gear falls on the floor. You now stop dismantling, and run a
bead of silicone round the casing and put it all back together again.
I once stripped AX box to replace the plastic speedo gear from the diff.
It took all day and the part only cost £2.45, loads of labour tho
obviously. It wasnt too complicated.
steve the grease.
markymark - 31 Mar 2007 22:41 GMT
>So, to recap: earlier this week I managed to drop the plastic drivegear off
>the speedo drive of my Skoda Felicia (1998 1.9 diesel, non turbo, VW engine,
[quoted text clipped - 6 lines]
>the transmission oil again if anything changes. However I wouldn't be at all
>surprised if I'm looking at having to replace the transmission.

Hi I've just had the same thing happen to me, the fact its plastic probly
explains why my attempts with a magnet have been un succesfull! your problem
happened october 06, what was the outcome so far? has the drive and let the
gears eat it approch proved succesfull? Am I correct that you lose the
ability to tell what speed you are doing? I've not driven it since except to
get ti into the garage at home off th driveway and out of the rain. I should
mention that mine is a 1.6 petrol felicia.

any advice would be great
 
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